New tractor break-in advice, please

[Exit32]

Just did a deal on a new Kubota B2601 and should be picking it up in about two weeks. I used the forum search feature here but did not find any info about breaking in a brand-new tractor.

Poking around the interwebs, I've found break-in advice that varies from "Just start using your new tractor" to "Baby the engine for the first 50 hours."

I'll ask my dealer about this when I pick up the tractor, but in the meantime I'm hoping for some helpful hints here. Thanks!

 

[85Hokie]

baby the engine would NOT be the correct term..........

dont run the snot out of it day one.

your machine has a WOT around 2500 ish......stay under that , like max 2100 for the first 50 hours........DONT baby it but run it up a bit to get the hydraulic pump(s) up to par.

then after that - dont baby it all -

people have a MISCONCEPTION that babying a diesel is "ok" ......wrong answer .....

newer machines in the +26 HP need to run almost at WOT to work well and burn of the DPF stuff.

DIESELS are designed to run at the WOT, it does not hurt them at all to run them there.....that is AFTER the so called break in time (50 hours)

 

[SDT]

Just did a deal on a new Kubota B2601 and should be picking it up in about two weeks. I used the forum search feature here but did not find any info about breaking in a brand-new tractor.

Poking around the interwebs, I've found break-in advice that varies from "Just start using your new tractor" to "Baby the engine for the first 50 hours."

I'll ask my dealer about this when I pick up the tractor, but in the meantime I'm hoping for some helpful hints here. Thanks!

Have your dealer give you the owners manual and follow the instructions therein.

SDT

 

[skeets]

Like 85 said for the first 50 hours,, then run it like you stole it,, like a harley motor never let it lug down,, lugging a diesel is badd JuJu

 

[Exit32]

baby the engine would NOT be the correct term..........

dont run the snot out of it day one.

your machine has a WOT around 2500 ish......stay under that , like max 2100 for the first 50 hours........DONT baby it but run it up a bit to get the hydraulic pump(s) up to par.

then after that - dont baby it all -

people have a MISCONCEPTION that babying a diesel is "ok" ......wrong answer .....

newer machines in the +26 HP need to run almost at WOT to work well and burn of the DPF stuff.

DIESELS are designed to run at the WOT, it does not hurt them at all to run them there.....that is AFTER the so called break in time (50 hours)

I appreciate the advice here. Sounds like I should just apply some common sense when operating my new B2601 during the break-in phase -- and beyond.

Currently, I have a 32-year-old Kubota B5200 that I bought new in 1986. It has performed flawlessly all those years, and I don't recall doing anything special during break-in when it was new.

 

[Saxman]

I had a Case engineer tell me diesels need to run at governed RPM. Lugging and idling a diesel are not good at all. When I got my L3830 new in 2006 I put it on my 72” bush hog and made sure she got worked hard. Diesels are made to WORK.


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[85Hokie]

I had a Case engineer tell me diesels need to run at governed RPM. Lugging and idling a diesel are not good at all. When I got my L3830 new in 2006 I put it on my 72” bush hog and made sure she got worked hard. Diesels are made to WORK.


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I worked commercial construction for a number of years, on the jobs site I would have to "operate" a track loader......boss said DO NOT RUN IT below "X" rpms........

ONLY time a backed off a smidge was when I had to fly in 2 yards of concrete up against a 4 million dollar brand new 4 story building.......

talk about butt pucker.......

I told the 30+ year operator..... "you ever miss another day...I'll..."

 

[wgator]

This is from the B2601 operators manual:
If you want to read up on it before hand download it here

OPERATING NEW TRACTOR
How a new tractor is handled and maintained determines the life of the tractor.
A new tractor just off the factory production line has been, of course, tested, but the various parts are not accustomed to each other, so care should be taken to operate the tractor for the first 50 hours at a slower speed and avoid excessive work or operation until the various parts become "broken-in." The manner in which the tractor is handled during the "breaking-in." period greatly affects the life of your tractor. Therefore, to obtain the maximum performance and the longest life of the tractor, it is very important to properly break-in your tractor. In handling a new tractor, the following precautions should be observed.
- Do not Operate the Tractor at Full Speed for the First 50 Hours
- Do not start quickly nor apply the brakes suddenly.
- In winter, operate the tractor after fully warming up the engine.
- Do not run the engine at speeds faster than necessary.
- On rough roads, slow down to suitable speeds.
Do not operate the tractor at fast speed.
The above precautions are not limited only to new tractors, but to all tractors. But it should be especially observed in the case of new tractors.

 

[mikester]

Adding to the other posts:
* Try to vary the engine speeds i.e. don't constantly operate it at one RPM, remember to move the throttle position regularly
* Do your complete first 50 hour service
* use OEM filters and fluids
* don't leave it in 4WD all the time
* operate the machine smoothly

All the parts are new and take time for the mating surfaces to get worked in. That also includes your loader, pumps, etc. Varying the throttle will make your engine run smoother across the engine speed range. The first 50 hour service will remove any metal particulates from the fluids.

 

[troverman]

baby the engine would NOT be the correct term..........

dont run the snot out of it day one.

your machine has a WOT around 2500 ish......stay under that , like max 2100 for the first 50 hours........DONT baby it but run it up a bit to get the hydraulic pump(s) up to par.

then after that - dont baby it all -

people have a MISCONCEPTION that babying a diesel is "ok" ......wrong answer .....

newer machines in the +26 HP need to run almost at WOT to work well and burn of the DPF stuff.

DIESELS are designed to run at the WOT, it does not hurt them at all to run them there.....that is AFTER the so called break in time (50 hours)

Your B2601 does not have a DPF nor a need to perform regenerations. That's why the standard B-series no longer includes the B2920 model, because it would require a DPF and raise the price considerably.

Idling is not inherently "bad" for a diesel any more than it is "bad" for any engine. What is bad about idling is that on diesel engines equipped with a DPF filter and possibly an EGR cooler, low engine speed means cooler exhaust temps which creates more soot to build up in the DPF filter...which means more frequent regenerations. It also tends to plug up the EGR cooler sooner. You don't need to worry about either of these. If a diesel idles for a very long time, especially in colder weather, a phenomenon called "wet stacking" can also occur. This means the cylinders are cooling down so much that not all the injected diesel burns. It can eventually stall your engine, but worse is that it strips the cylinder walls of lubricating oil and causes engine wear. But wet stacking is a rare phenomenon these days. I think nothing of idling my tractor for an hour if need be. I recently bought a brand new MX4800...and although I tried to vary the engine speed and use less than full throttle...I needed full throttle while flail mowing. So most of the 17 hours on the machine right now are at wide-open throttle. I don't suspect there will be any issues.

Good luck with your new machine!

 

[Stmar]

Like previously stated; read the manual and get familiar with your machine. I kept my B2650 under 2000 rpms during the first 50 hours and did try to vary the rpms, tried to stay within 1500 to 2000. Now have over 100 hours and run it according to need; brush hog at 520 pto rpms which translates to about 2250 engine rpms. I use 4wd only when needed; loader work or mowing uneven ground. I think it helps to change from 2wd to 4wd periodically to keep things moving so that it works when you need it. Cool here today so thinking about winter so make sure you read up on fuel requirements for cold weather.

 

[troverman]

Like previously stated; read the manual and get familiar with your machine. I kept my B2650 under 2000 rpms during the first 50 hours and did try to vary the rpms, tried to stay within 1500 to 2000. Now have over 100 hours and run it according to need; brush hog at 520 pto rpms which translates to about 2250 engine rpms. I use 4wd only when needed; loader work or mowing uneven ground. I think it helps to change from 2wd to 4wd periodically to keep things moving so that it works when you need it. Cool here today so thinking about winter so make sure you read up on fuel requirements for cold weather.

You're doing things exactly right Stmar, but these things are very durable. My 2013 B2920 - I ran it at wide-open with less than 20 hours on it for flail mowing. It has 519 hours on it now, most of its life has been spent wide open...RPM needle beyond the 540PTO mark...runs the same as it did when it was new. I do two engine oil and filter changes per year, and the trans and hydraulic filters on their hourly schedule. This tractor is in 4x4 much of the time...and the wear on the front tires shows it (I don't 4x4 on pavement unless snowcovered) but my 4x4 level goes between 4x4 and 2WD effortlessly. As a side-note, the 4x4 lever on the B-series is so much more convenient than the lever on larger Kubota tractors mounted down low near the diff lock.

I also have a 2002 L4310 and a 2018 MX4800. The L series I bought used at 400 hours and the MX I just bought new. I started running the MX at wide open throttle at less than 3 hours on the clock. I don't expect issues. I've tried running slower RPMS as well, but 95% of the time is at WOT because the mower won't cut any other way.

 

[hope to float]

Just to throw the cat among the pigeons:
the tutor on the mechanic module of my training, a few years ago now, told us that the instruction from JCB at the time was to drive a new machine to a secluded part of the site and leave it there at WOT for the entire working day keeping an odd eye on fluids and gauges. After that just use it as normal.

 

[groomerbuck]

I PERSONALLY believe you break in ANY new machine (motor) the way its intended to be used. I grew up around race cars and heavy equipment. Not a single time was any race motor or bulldozer ever “broke in”. We always used them for all they had right out of the box. Again, just my method.
My 2015 bx 2370 was ran wot from the day i got it and so has my 2018 b2650.

 

[Exit32]

My only experience with diesel engines is because I own an ancient Kubota B5200. I've always marveled at how much work I can accomplish with a tiny, 13-HP, three-cylinder diesel running at less than 3000 rpm.

When I bought this little tractor 32 years ago, I'm sure I followed Kubota's break-in instructions at the time. Today, with 550 hours on the machine, the ol' B5200 still runs like new.

I'll be following Kubota's break-in procedure when I pick up my new B2601 in a couple of weeks but thanks for all the interesting comments in this thread.

 

[troverman]

I think you'll be very happy with your new B2601. My B2920 is very similar and it's been the best tractor I've ever owned. I flail mowed 30 acres twice a year on steep slopes with it, and it also amazed me how much work this small tractor could do.

The size is perfect...very maneuverable in tight areas, yet strong enough to perform meaningful tasks. I bought mine as a "bare" tractor with R4 tires. The first year I added the mid-mount 60" belly mower, and the 3rd year I added the LA364 loader. The fourth year I put Bro-Tek 2" rear spacers on each side in the back, and had the dealer load my tires with Ballast-Star. I've added auxiliary lighting to the ROPs bar front and rear, and it can still be folded down.

Could you snap a picture of the instrument cluster *lit up at night*? One minor disappointment of my B-series is the fact that while the cluster is illuminated, the instrument needles are not...making the lighting useless. I also find the headlamps to perform poorly, but otherwise love this machine. Here's a shot of my instrument cluster when my B was young...