Got a new MX5800 which had less than 2 hours and also got a new wood chipper. I think the manual states not to run full throttle for 50 hours so does that mean not to use the PTO until after 50 hours?
New tractor and PTO
- Thread starter afret
- Start date
I would think you could use the pto anytime. But to follow the instructions in the manual you could not operate at full throttle for 50 hours. So depending on the needs of the device attached to the pto would determine if it was a good idea to use the device. I would think that the chipper probably needs 540 rpm or thereabouts then it should wait till you got the 50 hours break in period finished. Some might say its not important to do the break in period but tractors cost a lot of money to me and i for would am the type to play on the safe side.
Technical Ted
Member
Equipment
L3560/cab LA805 loader LandPride RCF2060 rotary cutter, HLA hyd angle snow blade
I just got a new L3560 and I wondered the same thing since my brush hog needed 540 RPM. The answer I got was that to get the 540 PTO RPM you don't need to run full throttle. On my tractor, it's a little over 3/4 throttle and my dealer told me it's good to run the tractor in that range to aid break-in and seat the rings.
Ted
Ted
I might be wrong but I very rarely run mine at 540, I always looked at that to be close to max rpm for the gear boxes on the equipment. When I can I just back off the throttle and take things slower.
Technical Ted
Member
Equipment
L3560/cab LA805 loader LandPride RCF2060 rotary cutter, HLA hyd angle snow blade
I think the break in is about running your tractor hard, but not all out. I don't think you need to baby it. Some will suggest running it like you stole it! 
IMHO, you need to run it fairly hard, but don't go crazy.
I'm not suggesting we do this with our tractors, but here's something of interest. I worked at a railroad locomotive engine rebuild plant. We had a huge dyno to test engine HP. EMD locomotive engines would come in, get completely stripped down, all components inspected, blocks machined to get into spec including complete line-boring for reconditioned cranks, all new bearings, new power assemblies (which are new cylinders, pistons, connecting rods, bearings), new water, oil, fuel pumps, etc. etc.... total rebuilds.
Well, after a couple of start ups/shutdowns to check bearing temps, etc. in our test cell, we ran the engine up through the notches (1-8, 8 being top speed) and ran the engines at full RPM at FULL LOAD for 2-8 hours depending on customer's requirements! That's full out, balls to the walls for 2-8 hours!
Just thought that would be interesting to some.
Ted
IMHO, you need to run it fairly hard, but don't go crazy.I'm not suggesting we do this with our tractors, but here's something of interest. I worked at a railroad locomotive engine rebuild plant. We had a huge dyno to test engine HP. EMD locomotive engines would come in, get completely stripped down, all components inspected, blocks machined to get into spec including complete line-boring for reconditioned cranks, all new bearings, new power assemblies (which are new cylinders, pistons, connecting rods, bearings), new water, oil, fuel pumps, etc. etc.... total rebuilds.
Well, after a couple of start ups/shutdowns to check bearing temps, etc. in our test cell, we ran the engine up through the notches (1-8, 8 being top speed) and ran the engines at full RPM at FULL LOAD for 2-8 hours depending on customer's requirements! That's full out, balls to the walls for 2-8 hours!
Just thought that would be interesting to some.
Ted
Thanks for the replies.
I talked to the dealer and was told to wait so I guess I will. It's been raining like crazy here and my brush pile is soaked and the snow should be coming soon. I'll break it in pushing snow and run the chipper in the spring.
Thanks again.
I talked to the dealer and was told to wait so I guess I will. It's been raining like crazy here and my brush pile is soaked and the snow should be coming soon. I'll break it in pushing snow and run the chipper in the spring.
Thanks again.
Is it a tier 4? If so, you'll go through several regens in that first 50 if you don't run it hard. Not wide open, but need to build engine temps.
On my 4800 pto is about 3/4 throttle and that is where I've done 90% of my operation. First regen was at 46 hours and now at 90 and haven't had a second yet - probably close.
I'm no expert but I have always been under the belief that you break in a motor in the same way you plan to operate. So if most of my work is going to be at PTO speed, then that is the way I've always felt it should be broken in.
On my 4800 pto is about 3/4 throttle and that is where I've done 90% of my operation. First regen was at 46 hours and now at 90 and haven't had a second yet - probably close.
I'm no expert but I have always been under the belief that you break in a motor in the same way you plan to operate. So if most of my work is going to be at PTO speed, then that is the way I've always felt it should be broken in.
Exactly!! It's ready to go the day it shows up on your property or job site.
Use it the way it's made to be used.
I mow my field with my bush hog/rotary mower and rarely run in 540 most of the time I'm cutting ferns and short brush. nothing over 1/4" in dia. If I get off on the edges and want to whack some 2" alder and other trees around the edges. I'll crank it up to the 540 mark.
Breaking it in I varied the speed just like I would on a atv , sxs or most vehicles . No prolonged rpms during break in, vary the rpms.
Breaking it in I varied the speed just like I would on a atv , sxs or most vehicles . No prolonged rpms during break in, vary the rpms.
I didn't have the need to run my new machine at full rpm, but I would have not done so in the first 50 hours anyway. I have always been very particular about breaking in new engines, even going so far as to change the oil after a couple of hours. I went with Kubotas recommendations this time (50h oil) and kept the throttle down to about 3/4 and was generally gentle with all other operations. Not listed in Kubota's recommendations, but I also varied the rpm's even during pto work. After 50h I also made sure to run the engine at wot with and without a load. Probably not necessary, but it all makes me feel better!!!
All said... Like the locomotive engine dyno post, I have read articles about dealers of large agricultural tractors delivering machines only after similar hours long full bore dyno runs.
Enjoy your new tractor.
All said... Like the locomotive engine dyno post, I have read articles about dealers of large agricultural tractors delivering machines only after similar hours long full bore dyno runs.
Enjoy your new tractor.
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
In the motorcycle racing world, there's an engine builder known on the forums as "Motoman". He asserts that:
a) there is a very limited window of opportunity to seat the rings before honing marks are too worn to be effective
b) high gas pressure is necessary to wear in the rings
He developed the "motoman break in". Within the first 30 minutes of running the engine for the first time, warm the engine up completely, then do 3 runs at 1/2 throttle to 1/2 redline. Now 3 runs at 3/4 throttle to 3/4 redline. Then 3 full-throttle runs to redline.
He claims to have ample objective data showing improved HP, reduced blow-by, etc. and there's lots of subjective claims by adherents in the various forums.
a) there is a very limited window of opportunity to seat the rings before honing marks are too worn to be effective
b) high gas pressure is necessary to wear in the rings
He developed the "motoman break in". Within the first 30 minutes of running the engine for the first time, warm the engine up completely, then do 3 runs at 1/2 throttle to 1/2 redline. Now 3 runs at 3/4 throttle to 3/4 redline. Then 3 full-throttle runs to redline.
He claims to have ample objective data showing improved HP, reduced blow-by, etc. and there's lots of subjective claims by adherents in the various forums.
botaskinner
Member
Equipment
B2320HST, Land Pride 48" BB, LA304 Loader, TSC Middle buster, Piranha Tooth Bar
It's interesting how there are multiple opinions on this topic, but the for the most part point to the importance of maintaining gas pressure on the rings to help them to seat correctly. That's something I think we all should agree on.
My dad was a Caterpillar mechanic for many years, many of them down in the deserts of New Mexico. Whenever he rebuilt an engine out in the field, he lubed the rods and mains (obviously) but assembled the pistons and rings completely dry. There was so much dust blowing around, he didn't want any grit sticking to an oily piston or cylinder liner, so this reduced the risk of scoring a cylinder wall.
On startup, the lubricity of the diesel fuel kicked in, since a cold block would probably take a few injector shots in each cylinder before it fired up. He never had a problem with oil consumption using this method.
I've also heard of 2-stroke dirt bike builders using a pinch of Ajax powder in the intake while blipping the throttle on a new engine.
Both approaches would seat the rings in a hurry.
Nowadays I wouldn't recommend either of these approaches, since both examples were for iron rings, and alloys have changed quite a bit since those days.
My dad was a Caterpillar mechanic for many years, many of them down in the deserts of New Mexico. Whenever he rebuilt an engine out in the field, he lubed the rods and mains (obviously) but assembled the pistons and rings completely dry. There was so much dust blowing around, he didn't want any grit sticking to an oily piston or cylinder liner, so this reduced the risk of scoring a cylinder wall.
On startup, the lubricity of the diesel fuel kicked in, since a cold block would probably take a few injector shots in each cylinder before it fired up. He never had a problem with oil consumption using this method.
I've also heard of 2-stroke dirt bike builders using a pinch of Ajax powder in the intake while blipping the throttle on a new engine.
Both approaches would seat the rings in a hurry.
Nowadays I wouldn't recommend either of these approaches, since both examples were for iron rings, and alloys have changed quite a bit since those days.