So I picked up the TG1860 shown below this past weekend for $2000. Has right around 1100 hours on it. One owner has owned it since 2003. He just put a brand new radiator in it and battery. Not a bad find I don't think. The only thing i noticed when driving it is when I let off the forward or reverse HST pedal the tractor will still creep in whatever direction I was going and the brake pedal basically does nothing. So if anyone has any advice on where to begin with adjusting the pedals or whatever I need to do it would be greatly appreciated. I need to try and find a copy of the Manual as well. I assume messicks will have that.
New to me TG1860 needs a little brake or hydro adjustment.
- Thread starter Jriedy85
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North Idaho Wolfman
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I would start by getting the WSM from a dealer or something like here:
Check all of these parts.
The brakes are fairly simplistic, start by checking the adjustment.
Really on an HST brakes are not used much.
1860 Lawn Garden Tractor Workshop Service Repair Maint Manual Kubota TG1860 TG18 | eBay
Repair Maint Manual Kubota TG1860 TG1860G. Fender & Lift. Manual Contents. Front Axle.
www.ebay.com
Check all of these parts.
The brakes are fairly simplistic, start by checking the adjustment.
Really on an HST brakes are not used much.
set screw (020) in neutral arm (010) is often loose and will cause creeping. Very common on those antiques. Take the screw out and apply some loc-tit to it then reinstall/tighten. I wouldn't go fiddling with adjusting anything until that's done first. See if if solves your issue with the hst creeping. If not look at the roller and see if it's wore out. They don't last forever and these 1860's are getting really old.
Brake is probably linkage related.
Brake is probably linkage related.
Thanks for the advice. I'll check into it this weekend and see what I can figure out.
Jriedy85, If parking brake/brake pedal doesn't work. Remove the puck lever castle nut cotter pin. This lever pushes a pin through the brake plate to squeeze the brake puck to the puck plate. On mine the lever was very loose. With the brake pedal in the released position, I simply tightened the castle nut down all the way then backed it off such that the puck plate would wiggle a bit. It takes a little experimentation to get the castle nut tightened properly to apply and release brake. Kind of a crude setup if you ask me, but that's how I did it. Sorry, I can't find an illustration in the parts breakdown. It's a new mower to me with a tad over 930 hours. I thought the brake pucks were worn out, but after performing that procedure, none were needed.
My HST pedal was what I would describe as floating free. I removed the rear fan cover and lower HST cover to gain access to the neutral arm and shaft holder. The ball bearing roller was not touching the neutral arm. If I loosen #70 flange bolt the roller #030 engages the detents in #010 speed change arm. I suppose the next thing to try is remove #80, neutral spring, disassemble neutral arm and shaft holder to see what's binding.
Thanks for all the input. I'm going to be digging into it maybe Sunday. See if I can't figure out what's going on.
It was seized alright. I’ll tell ya, I did a lot to it. One set of gimbal bearings and seals, sharpened 3 blades. Oil and filter. Air filter looked to have never been changed, did that. Starter solenoid was clicking. Installed a universal relay. Starts every time now. 90* grease zert in center spindle shaft. Brake fixed. Hydro pedal now has a center, no creep.
New HST vent hose and belt. Battery hold down missing. The center bar is ordered along with all anti scalp wheels and hardware. I’m so tired probably forgot some things. Whew it’s hot in Texas
New HST vent hose and belt. Battery hold down missing. The center bar is ordered along with all anti scalp wheels and hardware. I’m so tired probably forgot some things. Whew it’s hot in Texas
So I think that set screw on the neutral arm is loose on mine. I got an alan wrench on it but I can only get like 1/6th of a turn on it cause its such tight quarters. What’s the best way to gain access to that set screw?
Just a little update. I finally got around to working on my hrydo creep problem. I took the wheel off and got to the set screw on the neutral arm. It was backed way out. I tightened that down and that eliminated my creep issue! Also adjusted the brakes so they also work now. Gave the tractor an oil change for good measure. It's always rewarding fixing your machines yourself.