New to me L2250DT, broken flywheel bolts

[Daren Todd]

I'm leaning towards the bolts not being tightened. Being loose, it could rock back and fourth causing the bolts to snap.

There wouldn't be much left of that tractor, in order for the fly wheel bolts to snap do to operator error If they were flogging the hell out of it, it would result in a burned up clutch, tranny, pto shaft, or implement first.

 

[cviola2005]

Loose bolts idea is looking pretty good, I hope that last the case. But, keep in mind that the clutch was replaced, so that could mean operator flogging the crap out of it.

Hopefully, nothing else is damaged.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I dont think flywheel bolts would last very long if they became loose. Just from the compression knock at idle would shear bolts in short order. Likely extracting them will be a small sharp punch and a hammer to turn them out.

Good luck, hope everything else is in good shape.

 

[D2Cat]

If the were not in tight they should not be to difficult to remove. If Tooljunkie's method with a punch and hammer doesn't get them to turn, I'd take a nut and weld on the broken stud with a wire welder. Won't take much of a weld to get them to turn right out, and there won't be enough heat to hurt anything.

 

[Daren Todd]

How are the bolt holes on the fly wheel?

One of the side effects and a sign that the bolts were loose is wallowed out holes.


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[coachgeo]

How are the bolt holes on the fly wheel?

One of the side effects and a sign that the bolts were loose is wallowed out holes.


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for pics see post

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=189946&postcount=14

 

[cviola2005]

I forgot to take another picture of the flywheel, a straighter pic, before I left for the day.

By looking at the other pic I took, I don't think they look wallowed out. BUT, looking at the bolt hole in the top right, it looks oblong, though not in the right direction.

I won't be able to get this tractor in the shop until I get all my engines organized, and a spot cleared out for it.

I'm hoping to have that all done this week, so maybe next Monday or Tuesday I can start separating it.

 

[cviola2005]

I got the tractor pulled in the shop and started inspecting it. Using a compact mirror taped to a piece of metal, I was able to view the crankshaft bolts. Sorry for the picture quality, cellphone through a hole looking at a mirror at a funny angle.

PO already tried to remove the broken bolts, and it looks like to no avail. See next two pics with red arrows pointing at bolts with holes drilled in them. These are two different bolts.

I started tearing into it, got everything on the left side (not much there, honestly) taken apart.

On the right, still a couple of things left to unhook. See arrows in next pic. Far left arrow pointing to steering shaft showing bolt taken out, but I have to make sure it separates correctly. Top right arrow pointing to hose clamp, bottom two pointing to two hard lines to disconnect.

Tomorrow I'll try to separate the front end from the engine. Then the engine from the back end. I think this will be easier than separating at the middle, then pulling engine out of front end.

Probably wont get it all the way out tomorrow, but I'll start, for sure.

 

[cviola2005]

I got the tractor separated. I separated the two halves, then pulled the motor out of the front end. It was very quick and easy. A few snags, but nothing bad.

PO tried drilling out 4 of the bolts. Because of that, I really don't want to mess with the them because I have a good running spare engine ready to go in.

I got the oil pan off both engines, but now have to find my gasket material. After getting that done in the morning, I'll be swapping various things over from the old engine like the throttle linkage, hydraulic pump, exhaust manifold, rad fan adapter, flywheel, etc.

I forgot to take pictures. I'll take some tomorrow.

 

[cviola2005]

Ok, so here are the pics from yesterday.

Got it separated

Got the engine out

Replacement engine, ready for items to be swapped

 

[cviola2005]

Anyone know the differences between the D1302-DI and the D1402A?

Other than different injectors and lines, head, intake manifold, front cover.

The D1402A is what I'm replacing the original D1302-DI with. I have swapped exhaust manifold, stop lever, throttle linkage, tach drive, oil pan, bellhousing (these last two are application specific).

Found out that the oil filter housing hits the frame when I tried to install the engine. So now I have to swap the front covers, and swap back the tach drive. It looks like everything lines up the same.

 

[D2Cat]

You better send a PM to North Idaho Wolfman. He probably knows the answer from past research, but I think he's been climbing tall trees and too tired to get online lately!!

 

[cviola2005]

lol, thanks. Ill do that.

 

[cviola2005]

Got to working on the change over again today. Got the front cover swapped. Everything went smooth, nothing eventful.

I hoping I have enough time to get the engine outside to sandblast or mediablast, then painting it with Kubota Blue engine enamel. Then I'll let it sit over the weekend to install Monday.

 

[cviola2005]

Ok, so once again I forgot pictures.

Got the engine beadblasted, primed, painted, and installed in the tractor. The engine, front, and rear are together. Everything that I've taken off is back on. Problem though is that I now have to figure out the pieces that the PO took off; how they go back on and which bolts go where.

So. Can anyone help with a few pictures of the FEL brackets?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

What model FEL do you have for it?
I might be able to get you prints of the mounts.

 

[cviola2005]

It's hard to read. I believe it says BF400G. Thanks.

 

[Daren Todd]

Going off from memory on dads l2250. I'm currently 700 miles from it, so I can't get pictures. There are two identical pieces that run down the sides for the sub frame. They are actually mirror images of each other. They bolt up almost even with the steering wheel. And towards the front to the tractor frame. These are the pieces that the fel itself hooks too. I can't remember how it bolted to the frame.

There is a cross member that bolts between the two pieces and goes under the tractor. There is also a cross member that goes across the front. Can't remember if it bolts two the front of the tractor as well. Same with the bottom bracket. Used to have pictures, but deleted them about a year ago.


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[cviola2005]

Thanks Daren. I briefly looked at the brackets the big box they came in.
I noticed rather beefy brackets that appear to bolt to the bellhousing (4 bolts each) but not sure what else attaches to them or how.
I noticed two long flat stock bars about 36-42 inches long, but didn't pay attention to the attachment points.
IIRC, I saw two more long bars bigger than the other two. May have been a little shorter or longer. IDR


Today, I filled the transmission with hydraulic fluid, hooked (what I believe to be) the pressure hose (2- 2 1/2 ft long hose from distribution block with male QC) to the female QC on the distribution block (what I believe to be the power beyond connection?). I read another thread about a guy removing the FEL and not having hydraulic pressure on the 3PT and he was advised to hook power beyond hose to return, or something to that effect.


I started the tractor, and drove it out of the shop!! It did great! All 4 gears, forward and reverse, hi and low range all work great. Not sure if 4wd was working, didn't test it at all.

Bad news: Hydraulic leak at the suction line connection on the transmission. Does it have an oring or a gasket? If I take that off, all the fluid will drain out, correct?

Another leak around the front of the engine. Can't see much, can't see the source. I can see drops on the front oil pan bolts (mostly the 2 or 3 on the oil filter side) and dripping on the rear of the front axle, differential housing. Oil filter isn't leaking, doesn't appear to be the front crankshaft seal. It could be the front cover gasket, or the oil pan gasket. I'll have to pull the battery and use a mirror to investigate further. There is a return hydraulic line for the power steering running in that area, but I don't think it's leaking.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Go here and put in the BF400G and it will give you all of the pictures.

http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx