New to me B7100D

[Mike in Littlestown]

I have "volunteered" to do a refresh on our church's B7100. The little information I have on it is that we bought it new April 17, 1978. From the serial number, i gather it is a few years older than that--S/N 28682--engine S/N is 002616.
I have been reading on here for a few weeks--Great information.
The list I have been given ( estimated repair costs over $6k from a local dealer)
Excessive play in the steering wheel---Yep--I read that is a normal thing. I have no idea--at this point-- if it is a simple adjustment or will i have to delve into the gear itself. I see complete replacements are available--any of those to avoid?
Leaking at the top of the injection pump evidently another fairly common problem. I have a friend who owns a diesel injection repair company and has the required flow board. he says that leakage is a common failure mode. I will have him rebuild it and at least check the injectors for pattern and pop-off pressure. I really like that the timing of the injection pump is handled by shims--so I gather there is no concern when removing the pump to maintain correct timing?
Front Axle pivot slop I see this on older International Cub Cadets. Is there a bushing to be replaced, or does the pivot bolt wear? What is the best repair?
Rear crankshaft oil seal is leaking I have split small to medium size tractors before. From reading the Service
Manual, this doesn't appear too difficult or unusual. Any suggestions on removing the seal? Of course, i plan to replace all the clutch components while i am in there that far. Any suggestions on replacement brands to avoid? The original has given good service and i want my repair to last a while, too.
Fluids and filters Unless I uncover something in the next 2 weeks, there is no recent record of the state of any of the fluids ( The dealer DID service the cooling system so that has been done)
I think I have read that any Diesel-rated oil of the proper viscosity is fine for the engine.
Am i correct that the transmission and hydraulic system share oil? That would seem to argue for using the Super UDT oil from Kubota in spite of its expense--is that the consensus?
Any brands of filters to use or avoid using?
Someone else is replacing the seat and some of the tires.
It is only used for grass mowing--Land pride model FD-1560 run off the PTO and 2 point hitch--no belly mower. Other than blades and belts, anything I need to know about the mower maintenance?
\
Last maintenance record I have found so far is from April 8, 1996 at 915 hours---changed engine oil and filter, replaced the fuel filter and air filter, greased all fittings, drained and refilled radiator, sharpened mower blades.
I WILL be setting up a better record-keeping system and attempt to have all volunteer drivers keep it up
Are there any other weak points that I need to investigate while i have the tractor?

I have a diesel compression tester from England that adapts to the injector holes. If I can get it to fit, what compression numbers should i be seeing?

 

[drewzee87t]

Does it run? Is it used regular or has it been sitting around for years?

If it's been unused for a long time I would just start with the oil and fluids, get it running, if possible and then look into the other stuff. The pump leak could be a minor thing (o-ring), the rear seal leak might seal itself with some use and maybe some oil treatment. The steering and pivot is probably just a control arm or ball joint type issue easily fixed.

If it all really needs to be done then get your WSM and get to it. They are online for free for that model. Other than splitting the tractor it should be relatively easy repairs. Let us know what you find along the way as we like to learn from it also.

D

 

[85Hokie]

I think I have read that any Diesel-rated oil of the proper viscosity is fine for the engine.

If'n mine - I would go to wallyworld and get a gallon of Shell - Rotella T-6 5w-40 and use it.


Am i correct that the transmission and hydraulic system share oil? That would seem to argue for using the Super UDT oil from Kubota in spite of its expense--is that the consensus?

You are correct both share - and that oil will be fine too.

Any brands of filters to use or avoid using?

Dont skimp - get Kubota filters all the way around

Someone else is replacing the seat and some of the tires.
It is only used for grass mowing--Land pride model FD-1560 run off the PTO and 2 point hitch--no belly mower. Other than blades and belts, anything I need to know about the mower maintenance?

you say 2 point hitch ---- no top link????

I have a diesel compression tester from England that adapts to the injector holes. If I can get it to fit, what compression numbers should i be seeing?

Should have a compression of 420 or higher - however anything above 325 psi is fine ...... more to the point, they should all be within 10% of each other.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

No need to rebuild the injection pump, it's a simple fix for that kind of leak, unless your getting it done for free.
Getting the injectors pop tested is a good choice, but if they are bad no not rebuild them replace them with new injectors and not eBay or Amazon sourced injectors.
If it starts smooth and runs smooth now then compression is fine and injectors are fine, but checking it all isn't a bad idea.
With that age I'll bet the glow plugs could used changed too.

 

[Mike in Littlestown]

Thanks for the replies--
Yes it runs. We have a year or two old zero-turn mower of some sort, but the Kubota is still the mower of choice for several of the men who do that. We have about 6 acres to mow, but that is all it has ever done.

"2-point hitch" typo with no proof-reading---Yes, it is a THREE point hitch.

I was unclear on the answer about oil ( and I know "oil" threads can be exhaustive) When 85hokie responded that I was correct that the transmission and hydraulics share the same oil he said that that oil was satisfactory for both---did he mean the Kubota SUDT, or the Shell Rotella T6.?
I have been a fan of Shell Rotella since it was ( I think) T4 15w-40. I used that in several different Ford pickups with the International IDI diesel engine.

I will keep you all posted when the tractor finally arrives--now around March 1--and include some pictures.

I have down-loaded the I&T Shop Service manual. I also found an Operator's manual, but it is bi-lingual--French and English--Is there an English only version?

 

[85Hokie]

place the rotella in the engine - the S-udt2 in the hydraulics system.

English only operators manual

 

[Mike in Littlestown]

place the rotella in the engine - the S-udt2 in the hydraulics system.

English only operators manual

Thanks--yes, that is what I thought, but I wanted to be sure. ( I do not want to be accused of starting a dreaded "oil thread")
Thanks for the link.

 

[Mike in Littlestown]

TRACTOR HAS ARRIVED!!!
I am doing a "pre-inspection" before changing anything, and taking many pictures.
The fuel system is leaking almost everywhere. All the rubber hoses are wet. The injection pump is leaking all across the top. As I indicated earlier, I will be sending that out to rebuilding and calibration. The screws that mount the fuel filter assembly are all loose which allows it to move around--that probably contributes to some of the leakage.
It has a John Deere air filter cartridge!

My first impression is that this is one VERY solidly built tractor! I doubt we use even 10% of its capability. I seriously doubt that neither the 4WD nor the diff lock have been used very much at all.
Even the dull and stained paint on the hood cleans up nicely--pictures later.

Questions for now---
What sizes are the rubber fuel lines--the ones from the filter to the lift pump and the ones for the fuel return lines? Is there a kit that has all the lines and clips or is it better just to but the hoses? I want to replace all the clips, too.
The top front of the right side cover is broken. Is this a fairly common thing? It looks like a weak point. I plan to tack a little reinforcement to the back side. Any other ideas?

The key is broken off in the tumbler. Are all Kubota keys the same, or do I need to get a new tumbler and key?

The nuts that hold the muffler to the exhaust manifold look VERY rusty. I am soaking them in PB Blaster. Can I expect them to break. Are there any tricks to save them? Is replacing those studs usually a machine shop job, or can they be handled at home?

Next up is a compression test. I will post my numbers

More later as i get further into it.

 

[Russell King]

Questions for now---
What sizes are the rubber fuel lines--the ones from the filter to the lift pump and the ones for the fuel return lines? Is there a kit that has all the lines and clips or is it better just to but the hoses? I want to replace all the clips, too.

There are not kits that I am aware of. No idea on the size but you can get them from the dealer already cut to length by part numbers.

The key is broken off in the tumbler. Are all Kubota keys the same, or do I need to get a new tumbler and key?

Keys are universal but change over some models and time. Keys can be purchased from dealer and there is probably a part number for the keys, the switch and the combination of switch with key

The nuts that hold the muffler to the exhaust manifold look VERY rusty. I am soaking them in PB Blaster. Can I expect them to break. Are there any tricks to save them? Is replacing those studs usually a machine shop job, or can they be handled at home?

The nuts on my L185 were bronze and came off easily. The exhaust manifold had some problems so I replaced it with one from the dealer. There was no problem removing its bolts or nuts to remove the manifold. There was lots of rust involved but did not create any problem. Take time and be patient with them and you can probably be okay. Working the nuts in both directions will probably help also.

 

[Mike in Littlestown]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, the muffler-to-exhaust manifold came off with no problems. They looked really bad, but the overnight soaking with PB must have done some good.
Injection pump came off without any problems and will go to the rebuilder today, along with the injectors.

Radiator came off easily, too, but the petcock was plugged with rusty debris--even though we just paid a dealer to service the cooling system---I have doubts! The lower radiator hose was bulging.

What is the best way to flush out the cooling system? Obviously, that will wait until the injection pump is back so the engine can be run to make it hot so the coolant will circulate, but is there a preferred method to clean to cooling system?

Steering wheel had over 6" of play! I removed the rubber plug and was able to get a few complete turns on the adjustment. Do you want to remove all the play? Is there any danger in too little lash? So far, there is still a couple of inches of play, but the adjusting screw feels tight--do I keep going?

Next up will be removing the front axle to see why there is so much wobble in the pivot.

 

[Mike in Littlestown]

I think I need to replace the oil seal at the rear of the crankshaft. I can't find it in the exploded parts diagrams. What part group shows that seal?
Anything special about replacing it?

 

[drewzee87t]

Anything special about replacing it?

Just splitting the tractor haha

Unless you need to get in there anyway, maybe try a can of blue devil and see if that will shut it up. Might save you a big job. I would also look into that on the rear axle seal. There is some AT-205 stuff we use in toyota transfer cases that seals up o-ring and seal leaks. The stuff works really good for avoiding a 12 hour job for a 50 cent seal.

My old b7500 had leaky front axle seals and they sealed up just from using the tractor. I guess it had been sitting so long they got dried out.

 

[Lil Foot]

I think I need to replace the oil seal at the rear of the crankshaft. I can't find it in the exploded parts diagrams. What part group shows that seal?
Anything special about replacing it?

Is this what you're looking for?
Never done one, so I have no tips for you.

 

[kubotasam]

I think I need to replace the oil seal at the rear of the crankshaft. I can't find it in the exploded parts diagrams. What part group shows that seal?
Anything special about replacing it?

Seal is under ENGINE-- Bearing Case Group.

I did a rear main seal on my B7100 5 or 6 years ago. Hardest part is removing the loader sub frame. What I found after removing the flywheel was the seal was actually being pushed out and was leaking at the outer perimeter. I think I could have just tapped it back in. I replaced it and added a permitex product made to hold seal in place. Don't remember the exact product name.
When reinstalling the flywheel be careful. It looks like you can just put it on in any position. No dowel pin or anything to index it. There is one correct position. Put it on and make sure you can thread all the bolts in by hand. If you can't, then remove the bolts and turn flywheel one set of holes and try again. Do not use a wrench until you find the spot where you can thread them all in by hand.

 

[Lil Foot]

Keep in mind, this is from a pretty old parts book, and a lot of these numbers have been superseded.
When I bought from the local dealer, (before I knew better) one parts guy would look up an old number and tell me it was no longer available. The other parts guy would then cross reference to the new part number & get me my part.

 

[Lil Foot]

Seal is under ENGINE-- Bearing Case Group.

I did a rear main seal on my B7100 5 or 6 years ago. Hardest part is removing the loader sub frame. What I found after removing the flywheel was the seal was actually being pushed out and was leaking at the outer perimeter. I think I could have just tapped it back in. I replaced it and added a permitex product made to hold seal in place. Don't remember the exact product name.
When reinstalling the flywheel be careful. It looks like you can just put it on in any position. No dowel pin or anything to index it. There is one correct position. Put it on and make sure you can thread all the bolts in by hand. If you can't, then remove the bolts and turn flywheel one set of holes and try again. Do not use a wrench until you find the spot where you can thread them all in by hand.

Good advice!

 

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[Russell King]

Keep in mind, this is from a pretty old parts book, and a lot of these numbers have been superseded.
When I bought from the local dealer, (before I knew better) one parts guy would look up an old number and tell me it was no longer available. The other parts guy would then cross reference to the new part number & get me my part.

I generally try to use Kubota.com to find the part numbers and then go to Messick’s to see a cost for the part. Messick’s site will also show if the part number has been superseded with new numbers. If so then I ask my local dealer that I think the old number is superseded by the second number so they can verify it.

 

[Mike in Littlestown]

Thank You, ALL! Yes, that is the correct page===
I have been using the Messick's site and with a few exceptions, their prices are not too bad. Radiator hoses are under $10 each. The radiator cap at $40 seems a bit steep---why is that? Is the oem cap really worth $40, or can i use another at 1/3 the cost?
Has anyone had success getting a broken key out of the tumbler? Will it just fall out if i turn the tumbler upside down and tap it on the bench?

Thank you for all your help, but I think now i will start new threads for specific questions---it makes it easier for people to decide if they can help if the topic is specific.

But for this thread, the next step is dropping the front axle. That will probably wait for Monday when the temperature will be well above the 30s I am seeing in my shop right now.

Good news is that there is no FEL to contend with. This tractor has only pulled a mower since it was new. (I was tempted to tell my friends at church that it was not worth repairing and offering a few $ for it--but I really couldn't do that. It is in marvelous condition!)

 

[Lil Foot]

Has anyone had success getting a broken key out of the tumbler? Will it just fall out if i turn the tumbler upside down and tap it on the bench?

It will mostly likely NOT fall out.
Read this:

Key broke!

The ignition key on my B7100HST broke off! Does anyone have an easy way to remove the part still in the key slot? A magnet does not work. I can still insert the outside piece to glo-plug and start her, but would prefer to use a new key. Thanks for any useful ideas.

www.orangetractortalks.com