New-to-me 1982 B7100

[mudog88]

First off, just wanted to introduce myself. I've been lurking around here for a while, grabbing up ideas and reading some really great info. I figured I should go ahead and sign up so I can ask a few questions and get to know you all. I grew up on a 1951 Ford 8n, but my Dad was the one who set everything up, I just drove it occasionally helping around the small farm they have. He was always nervous about letting us kids use it and I can really see why now that I own a small tractor. They can give even the most seasoned operator some level of pucker-factor if the machine isn't respected.

I've only just got my B7100HST-D. I noticed, when I purchased it, that one of the TPH stabilizers had broken and been welded back up... in two places. So, after the first time I used my new machine to cut our 3 acres with the 60" belly mower in came with, the dang stabilizer broke right at one of the welds. I checked with the Kubota Dealer in my area on getting new stabilizers and almost fell out of my chair when they told me the price for ONE. Any tips that could be offered to avoid breaking a new one would be VERY appreciated, since I haven't had much luck finding one of those money trees some people seem to have.

Also, before working the tractor for the first time, I did the oil, fuel and air filters, making sure to thoroughly clean in the process. Fresh 15W-40 Valvoline, and fresh fuel from a busy station with about 1 cup of both Seafoam and MMM to clean the fuel system up. I also checked the coolant prior to each use. During the first use though, I noticed coolant leaking out of the warning whistle. Is that a bad radiator cap or just overfilled and letting the excess drain overboard? Many thanks for any suggestions. I'll get some pics up soon since I know how much the crew here enjoys them.

 

[mudog88]

Just wanted to bump my question. I don't want to keep filling the radiator just to have it leak out of the whistle. Thanks for any help.

 

[85Hokie]

Just wanted to bump my question. I don't want to keep filling the radiator just to have it leak out of the whistle. Thanks for any help.

Is it leaking out of the whistle right from the start? Or after 15-20 minutes or more. Point - does it need to build pressure first? Or is it leaking as soon as water starts to circulate? Too much water and it will kick out some. You using 50-50 mix? IF so - switch it back to 30-70 water on the 70% side.

Have you cleaned the radiator reaaaallllly good with compressed air? Do so !

Next step would be to get a digital heat gun - the thingy with the laser on it - it will tell you what is hotter than other parts.

There is no water pump - it works by the simple process of hot water rising and cooler water falling. This thermosyphon system must have a perfectly working radiator to make it work.

As you said - it could be a bad cap - not sure off the top of my head - 10lb, 13lb? Might replace it first - cheap fix if that is problem.

Several of us (B7100 owners) have placed a thermometer on the upper radiator hose to keep an eye on the temps.

 

[mudog88]

Hokie,
Coolant did leak out of the whistle right at startup (cold). I felt like I had maybe put too much in there, but seeing as there's no expansion tank, it just vented overboard. As I was running it, maybe 30 minutes into using it, I noticed steam coming out of the whistle (no noise) with some coolant leaking out as well.

Not 100 % sure of the coolant mixture, but I will be flushing the block and radiator this weekend anyhow, so an accurate ratio of 70:30 will be returned to the system. There will also be a through external cleaning happening as well.

I did notice on my way out the door this morning that the back side of the radiator appears as if somebody tried to 'brush' it clean as the fins appear bent over nearest the fan, so that may be my troubles. I'm hoping I can figure out a way to gently put them back in the correct configuration.

A heat sensing gun is on the list of tools to get as well now. And a rad cap will also be going on the list along with a temp gauge and required fixins.

Thanks so much for the reply and suggestions! I'm pretty sure I've caught the Orange Fever and I'll need a lifetime supply of seat time to 'cure' it, although from the looks of things here, a 'cure' has never been found. Of course, my previous riding mower was a Craftsman, so this is an obviously HUGE improvement.

 

[Jimc3165]

Muddog88 we have the same tractor and I am doing the same sort of things as you catching up on the maintenance. I just replaced my glow plug indicator and got it working. I also replaced my fuse holders with the new ATC style fuses and that got my lights and hour meter working.

 

[mudog88]

Muddog88 we have the same tractor and I am doing the same sort of things as you catching up on the maintenance. I just replaced my glow plug indicator and got it working.

I've just realized I don't have a glow plug indicator. Just looked at some pics on my phone and there's only a black rubber/plastic plug where it's supposed to be. Do you know if that was an option? Also, my lights are all kinds of whacked out. Some work, some don't, and some work without the key on and switches off. I found some duct tape behind the dash, so I'll be doing a complete re-wire. ATM, I've got them all disconnected so I don't burn anything up. I'm thinking a complete LED conversion is in the future. The PO just had this tractor for his kids to drive around the yard, so it wasn't really used or properly cared for. Sad really, but it also means I get to know my Kubota better making it not seem so bad.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

As far as the stabilizers, there is an aftermarket brand a bunch of people are using... Anyone have one that could comment on the non-OEM stabs???

???

 

[OldeEnglish]

As far as the stabilizers, there is an aftermarket brand a bunch of people are using... Anyone have one that could comment on the non-OEM stabs???

???

Hodge builds telescoping stabilizers for all models. He made some for my 7100 and they are very HD. They work great for me and it makes hooking up implements a breeze. Shoot him a PM...
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/member.php?u=3650

 

[D2Cat]

I think he posted on here several months ago, he's putting a hold on production.

 

[Lil Foot]

Hodge's stabilizers might be the best accessory I've added to my B7100, but I thought he was doing a moratorium on building any until he caught up with the backlog & some neglected parts of his life...

 

[OldeEnglish]

Hodge's stabilizers might be the best accessory I've added to my B7100, but I thought he was doing a moratorium on building any until he caught up with the backlog & some neglected parts of his life...

Same here, they work absolutely perfect. That's unfortunate he's taken some time off, I must have missed that. I hope all works out well for him because he is a very nice guy. If I remember correctly, I believe he worked with kids from his church and had them helping build the stabilizers while teaching some of the trades.

 

[Lil Foot]

I thought there was a post that was more definitive about hodge taking some time off, but this is all I could find, so I guess drop him a line.
post #34
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6659&page=4&highlight=stabilizers

 

[mudog88]

Thanks everybody for the great advice. For the radiator, I removed it and straightened all the fins. Very tedious but I think it worked. Flushed the radiator and block as well. They weren't too bad, but I figured I'd be sure while they were all dismantled. Also, installed a rad cap that has a mechanical thermometer installed in it. It shows I'm running about 230º-235ºF. Seems high to me but then again, this is the first thermosyphon cooling system I've ever done anything with. Any pointers on ideal temps? And the coolant isn't overflowing anymore. It did for a few minutes on warm up but stopped soon after. I'll drop some pics in once I read the how to thread. Again, thanks a ton everybody. I'll be keeping a keen eye on the happenings here.

 

[85Hokie]

Thanks everybody for the great advice. For the radiator, I removed it and straightened all the fins. Very tedious but I think it worked. Flushed the radiator and block as well. They weren't too bad, but I figured I'd be sure while they were all dismantled. Also, installed a rad cap that has a mechanical thermometer installed in it. It shows I'm running about 230º-235ºF. Seems high to me but then again, this is the first thermosyphon cooling system I've ever done anything with. Any pointers on ideal temps? And the coolant isn't overflowing anymore. It did for a few minutes on warm up but stopped soon after. I'll drop some pics in once I read the how to thread. Again, thanks a ton everybody. I'll be keeping a keen eye on the happenings here.

Mudog,

Glad you got those fins straight and back in running order. The 230-235 bothers me however......I hope the gauge is OFF!

I find with a brand new electrical gauge mine is running dead balls at 208, this the top of the head in the top hose. I have not taken temps on the bottom end of radiator. As I start the tractor, it takes maybe 5-7 minutes to get to the max temp. I keep my radiator very clean and the prescreen clean too.

I was cutting grass and stopped to talked to someone and allowed it to idle, temps dropped to about 185.(about 10 minutes)

Some say that a cooler engine will last longer.......not true, nor will an engine that gets too hot!!!

Race cars and the like (typically not diesel) run right at 200-210, this is the ideal temps to allow oil to get hot and do it's job and allow the engine to be more efficient.

On large trucks, the owner will place something on the front of the radiator to keep the heat in, a diesel can actually stay too cold in the winter months.

Get you one of those thermometers that use the laser to point them, if it is off, it will not be off more than 2 +/- degrees.

Also - what psi cap did you use? To high is bad and too low is bad ! 13 is the right one for the B7100

on last note - the mechanical gauge you have if it is sitting AT THE top of the radiator, is probably is NOT in the water, rather at the top of the tank, and the steam is causing it to read a bit higher.

check your temps and report back

 

[mudog88]

Mudog,

Glad you got those fins straight and back in running order. The 230-235 bothers me however......I hope the gauge is OFF!

I find with a brand new electrical gauge mine is running dead balls at 208, this the top of the head in the top hose. I have not taken temps on the bottom end of radiator. As I start the tractor, it takes maybe 5-7 minutes to get to the max temp. I keep my radiator very clean and the prescreen clean too.

I was cutting grass and stopped to talked to someone and allowed it to idle, temps dropped to about 185.(about 10 minutes)

Some say that a cooler engine will last longer.......not true, nor will an engine that gets too hot!!!

Race cars and the like (typically not diesel) run right at 200-210, this is the ideal temps to allow oil to get hot and do it's job and allow the engine to be more efficient.

On large trucks, the owner will place something on the front of the radiator to keep the heat in, a diesel can actually stay too cold in the winter months.

Get you one of those thermometers that use the laser to point them, if it is off, it will not be off more than 2 +/- degrees.

Also - what psi cap did you use? To high is bad and too low is bad ! 13 is the right one for the B7100

on last note - the mechanical gauge you have if it is sitting AT THE top of the radiator, is probably is NOT in the water, rather at the top of the tank, and the steam is causing it to read a bit higher.

check your temps and report back

Hokie,
OOPS!!! Yeah I got a 16 psi cap! I will remove that and install the old one until I get a new 13 psi. Thanks for that. And for the gauge sitting at the top, after doing more research on the simple, yet effective, cooling system, I found that it operates on the theory that there is a small amount of steam in the top of the rad, so you are spot on with your analysis. Still need to get a temp gun though. I'll report as soon as I have one. I'll see about one of those fancy temp gauges too. I spotted a thread on it so I'll head there and get info.

In the mean time, I've finally (I hope) attached some pics for ya'll to browse and give me some info/suggestions on, if you feel the need. I know it would benefit from a thorough cleaning, so that's on the list as well.

 

[Lil Foot]

Mine is laid up with an axle problem, but I checked some temps with the my new infrared temp gauge-
Idling for 25 minutes, no load, ambient air 92F, top of the radiator at top hose, 156-159F, bottom of the radiator at bottom hose, 94-96F.
Granted, I wasn't working it or throttling up, but I'm pleased with those readings so far.

 

[mudog88]

Mine is laid up with an axle problem, but I checked some temps with the my new infrared temp gauge-
Idling for 25 minutes, no load, ambient air 92F, top of the radiator at top hose, 156-159F, bottom of the radiator at bottom hose, 94-96F.
Granted, I wasn't working it or throttling up, but I'm pleased with those readings so far.

Awesome! Thanks for that. I think the 16 psi cap was my reason for the higher temps. I'll be attempting a remedy in that area first.

 

[ncridgerunner]

I had a b7100 for 20 years before buying a bx23. I loved that tractor and wished many times I could have afforded to keep both tractors. You have a great little tractor that is durable and strong.

I noticed from your pics that the exhaust pipe is pointed up. If you work around trees you might want to change the exhaust pipe to point forward to keep the trees from hanging on the pipe and slapping you in the face. I got several good slaps in the face while keeping an eye on my bush hog and not paying attention to the tree branches hanging on the exhaust pipe before I decided to make the change.

Hope you enjoy your "new" tractor!

 

[mudog88]

I had a b7100 for 20 years before buying a bx23. I loved that tractor and wished many times I could have afforded to keep both tractors. You have a great little tractor that is durable and strong.

I noticed from your pics that the exhaust pipe is pointed up. If you work around trees you might want to change the exhaust pipe to point forward to keep the trees from hanging on the pipe and slapping you in the face. I got several good slaps in the face while keeping an eye on my bush hog and not paying attention to the tree branches hanging on the exhaust pipe before I decided to make the change.

Hope you enjoy your "new" tractor!

So far it's been great! Besides learning a few new things about engines like the thermo-syphon cooling system and how different rad caps can make things play up, it's been great. I had a small Isuzu Turbo Diesel while I was living in the UK. That's where I learned the most about diesels. It was the more common cooling system though.

As far as the exhaust goes, yes, I do have a few trees that have some small, low hanging branches, but I think my remedy will be to trim them up out of the way. I turned the exhaust up because it's original configuration caused exhaust to blow back into my face. We have a lot of wind where I'm at. So windy, in fact, there's thousands of acres of wind turbines. Thanks for the heads up though. A few smacks in the face from some branches should give me the motivation to cut those small branches off.