New to diesel -- what don't I know?

[Mossy dell]

On starting and stopping, this is from the online manual I found for my B2601 that's coming:

STARTING: Set throttle lever about halfway [looks a little lower than that in image]

Turn key to “On”

Turn key to “Preheat” for 2-3 seconds

5 seconds @ 32-23F

10 seconds @ 23-5F

If it’s very cold and fails to start, turn off key for 30 seconds and try again.

WARM UP: For five minutes, allow engine to run without any load. Below 32F to 14F, warm up for up to 10 minutes. @ 14F to -4F, warm for 10-15 mins. Below -4, warm for over 15 mins.

STOPPING: Slow engine to idle and turn off.

The manual also says for break-in:

1ST 50 HOURS BREAK-IN FOR NEW TRACTOR

Don’t operate at full speed [big emphasis]*

Don’t operate faster than necessary*

“Applies to all tractors but especially important for new tractor.”

Change lubricating oil early to catch metal bits.

 

[BobInSD]

This may've been answered but I wonder about off-road vs highway diesel fuel? Our local stations here in SW VA generally have both, with highway more expensive. I am getting a new tractor and wonder which way to go.

Well, you're not paying the road tax on the dyed diesel (that's why it's red, so they can tell if you use it on the road). Locally I've been told that the closest place that sells the off-road diesel puts better additive in, so it's win/win for me. I did save a pickle jar of #2, and it did cloud up a few weeks ago (but it's going to be + 40 today--go figure).

 

[BigG]

This may've been answered but I wonder about off-road vs highway diesel fuel? Our local stations here in SW VA generally have both, with highway more expensive. I am getting a new tractor and wonder which way to go.

You can run either in a tractor. The off road tank will be died red and it will work in a on road truck but the fine for not paying the taxes is very steep if you get caught. It is the same fuel one with and one without the road tax.

 

[nbryan]

Glow minimum 5 seconds in >32F conditions. 5-10 below 32F, colder = longer.

I set my throttle at around 1250 rpm before turning it off, up from ~1100 rpm idle, so when cold starting it's ready at a good warmup rpm.

Mine isn't a DPF machine, but I still allow the recently hard-worked diesel engine to fast idle for 15-30 seconds before shutdown to allow the engine temps to stabilize a bit.

In Manitoba with 0F to -30F operating temps at times, I have had zero gelling issues with the regular diesel I get from the Shell station. I'm certain that's because I use an oz. of Sea Foam per US gal. (150ml/20L jerry can) of fuel, right at the pump, for all my gas and diesel cans.

Sea Foam stabilizes and anti-gels. Cleans. I put a can in my gas 4L pickup tank every oil change, too. I have never used something as effective at smoothing idle, speeding startup, cleaning injectors, increasing fuel economy (a bit, but noticeable!) and stopping any gelling or degradation of fuels.
For example, would anyone here expect a 3 years-sitting-unused-outside walk-behind 12 hp snow blower, with a half tank of 3 year old gas, to start? I didn't, even with sea foam treated gas. Told my neighbor who was wanting to try it out and maybe buy it, that we'd prob have to dump and refill the tank.
Started first pull. Ran smooth right away.
That's Sea Foam for you.

 

[random]

This may've been answered but I wonder about off-road vs highway diesel fuel? Our local stations here in SW VA generally have both, with highway more expensive. I am getting a new tractor and wonder which way to go.

AFAIK the only difference is the offroad is dyed. It's the same stuff - offroad isn't taxed like highway. You can use highway in a tractor but why pay the highway taxes?

 

[Mark_BX25D]

There are two differences between them:

1. Off road has a red dye.
2. Highway fuel has road taxes.

Otherwise, they are exactly the same. Run either one or both. Doesn't matter.