New Stabilworks Arrived!

[northender]

Placed an order with Mark for the stabilworks for my bx2370 about a week to 10 days ago...they arrived in the mail today! He was super easy to deal with, price was very reasonable, and they look great! Will get them mounted on the tractor tomorrow, of course with some pics of the before and after!

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I was fortunate enough to have Mark personally hand deliver mine two years ago. And I must say they are worth more then their weight in gold! So much faster to hook up and disconnect our toys and they stay perfectly still back there.

 

[TripleR]

You will love them, we put them on both our BXs.

 

[Gundoctor]

They are the best. He made a pair for my BX 2230. I hope I never see those factory chains again.

David Pidgeon

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

x4 Should be standard equipment

 

[hodge]

I just made and shipped a set for a Ford 3000- they weighed 30.5 pounds.

 

[northender]

Well I got the stabilworks installed on the BX2370 this morning. I had my rear blade mounted, as it has been since late fall (we are supposed to get about 4" of snow this weekend, gotta be prepared ).
(the blade is a Landpride RB1560, very nice blade, works great, and easy to adjust...I think it has 7 tilt adjustments facing forward, and 5 tilt adjustments facing back)

So, I removed the oem turnbuckles, and installed the new stabilizers. The hardest part of the transition was getting the cotter pins out of the oem stabilizers. Once done, I fired up the tractor and moved the 3 point up and down, well I discovered a problem. Here is a pic of the stabilworks with the blade sitting on the ground:


As I raised the 3 point, the corner of the stabilworks nearest the implement (blade) it would make contact with the blade itself , contact was happening at about 1/2 way between the blade being on the ground, and at full lift. Here is a pic showing the contact:


So looking things over, I decided I had to modify the stabilworks stabilizer, here is a pic of the modification I made:


Basically just had to cut off the corners nearest the implement, ground it smooth, and reinstalled it. Here is a pic of the modified stabilizer installed on the 2370 with blade at full lift


....no more contact! I am not sure all would have this issue or not, I am sure you would with this series of tractor and this particular model of blade. I am glad I took my time and raised the 3 point slowing testing the fit of the new stabilizer. I would imagine using it with out modification would have resulted in damage to either the tractor, stabilizer, or blade. I will forward my findings to Mark, as I am sure he would like to know about this issue and modify future stabilizers he makes for this particular series of tractors.

 

[hodge]

Thanks- that is food for thought.

 

[tiredguy]

x4 Should be standard equipment

My B3030 came with them standard OE and I wouldn't have it any other way and I don't know why the don't on all models. It's ok they don't though, gives the company you bought from and a fine craftsman like Hodge a way to make money since they probably supply them making a few bucks and save big bucks from what Kubota would add to the price if they were OE new.

I changed the factory pins to the clip style with the wire hoop, it makes taking them out and putting them back back in a few seconds at most to accomplish. Couple bucks spent major time saver and haven't lost one yet.
Al

 

[BotaDriver]

What is the distance between the adjustments? I don't see how one can get an attachment 'tight' as required on some when using fixed stop positions??

I keep my 1860 cutter locked solid.

 

[northender]

What is the distance between the adjustments? I don't see how one can get an attachment 'tight' as required on some when using fixed stop positions??

I keep my 1860 cutter locked solid.

I am not sure how many adjustments they have, and I have only used it so far with my LP blade, however, the inner sleeve and outer sleeve have many holes in each. By pushing the three point arm tight to one side, locking it in place, then tightening the other arm up, the pins wound up in different holes. The distance of the alignment holes from outer and inner arm are placed at different intervals so that you have many adjustment points. Maybe I am not explaining it very well, but the manner in which the holes differ, allows for pretty fine adjustment intervals. I plowed snow this morning, and blade stayed right where I wanted it stay, no side to side movement, and a lot easier to hook up to the blade, no more need in carrying the adjustable wrench!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

What is the distance between the adjustments? I don't see how one can get an attachment 'tight' as required on some when using fixed stop positions??

I keep my 1860 cutter locked solid.

Let me see it this helps with the thinking on this.
With chains and turn buckles you have to snug both of them up till they tighten up the arms to the unit on the three point to keep it from flopping around.
With the stabilworks setup you don't need to tighten up the arm to the implement because they don't flex and buckle so they don't have to be tight to hold the implement solid.

 

[IDKUBOTA]

how much for the ford 3000 stabilzer?

 

[northender]

Last week we got about a foot of snow, so this was the maiden voyage with the new stabilworks. They worked great, blade stayed where I put it, no side to side shifting during use. However, I noticed one thing that puzzles me a bit. Before. With the oem setup, I could set the blade to to set level on the ground with the blade at 90 degrees to the tractor, then I could dismount the tractor and pivot the blade to any other position and it still stayed basically flat with the ground. Now the the stabilworks installed, when the blade is pivoted from the 90 degree position, the leading edge (either forward or reverse) would contact the ground first causing the leading edge to cut into my gravel portions of drive and the trailing edge to leave a layer of snow. This caused me to have to adjust the right side of the three point to level out the blade either up or down depending on which side of the tractor had the leading edge of the blade facing. I never noticed this with the oem setup, I suppose this occurs due to both arms being rigidity tied together, not a huge issue, just thought I toss it out there with what I have experienced. I wonder if the make a replacement for the oem 3 point adjustment? As a teenager I helped my granddad out on his farm and he had a 165 MF, his adjustment was simple, it had a handle that just spun one way or the other to adjust the side to side position of your implement. Having to use the wrench on the 2370 is kind of a pain in comparison to his old massey.

 

[bulldog_shotgun]

when the blade is pivoted from the 90 degree position, the leading edge (either forward or reverse) would contact the ground first causing the leading edge to cut into my gravel portions of drive and the trailing edge to leave a layer of snow. This caused me to have to adjust the right side of the three point to level out the blade either up or down depending on which side of the tractor had the leading edge of the blade facing.

your adjusting at the wrong spot.

you should be able to park on a flat concrete pad and level your blade with your right arm while the blade is straight side to side. then swing your blade as close to front and back as you can get and level it that way with the top link.

then you will be able to put it in any position without it digging.

 

[northender]

your adjusting at the wrong spot.

you should be able to park on a flat concrete pad and level your blade with your right arm while the blade is straight side to side. then swing your blade as close to front and back as you can get and level it that way with the top link.

then you will be able to put it in any position without it digging.

Oh okay, never even thought about the top link...thanks will give that a try!

 

[hodge]

how much for the ford 3000 stabilzer?

$190.00 for the set, shipped to the lower 48 states.

 

[nightdevil]

Stupid question.... What makes the replacement better than the oem, or did I miss that?

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

 

[Russell King]

You missed it.

The original equipment on most tractors are called check chains. They are chains with turnbuckles and have to be tightened on both sides to keep the implement from swaying. They generally have to be loosed to change from one implement to another.

The Stabilworks are basically adjustable length bars that replace the check chains. They adjust by removing a pin, installing the implement aligning a hole set and installing a pin. Somewhat simpler and probably much faster than the check chain adjustment.

Look at first post to see a picture of the stabilworks.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Stupid question.... What makes the replacement better than the oem, or did I miss that?

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

Here's Hodges website for a side by side comparison.

http://www.stabilworks.com/