New Saw

[WFM]

Of course always something to cut up or cut down it seems.
I buy my firewood cut and split.
But had taken down a couple white oaks (10" dia at the stump) recently. My 1998 husqvarna 350 chain saw just doesn't have the power it used to. So tractor supply had a sale on the 445 model, 18" bar, the 350 had a 16" bar.
I fell the white oaks with my old saw leaving a 30" stump sticking up knowing is go back and make two firewood sticks out of both. I left them till I got my new saw. I finally got around to use it this morning. It seems to have plenty of power and a new chain cuts big chips. But oddly it kicked back several times. Im making a flat horizontal left to right cut to get the first piece of firewood off. Then ground level to cut the next piece off the stump. I don't ever remember my old saw kicking back. I've used a chainsaw my entire life. Just not alot. But the new saw is certainly different. Im just not sure why I get the kick back.

 

[bbxlr8]

Not sure what you have or had, but pro-level chain is full chisel and will tend to kick back more. Consumer chain is more safety-oriented for that very reason

It gives nice big chips and fast cuts when sharp. It's all I use on my big H. saw with 24" blade.
Check the numbers on your new chain. I would be surprised if it came stock with the full chisel but you never know...

 

[RCW]

Kick back can mean different things to different people.

In any way can be dangerous.

What’s the saw doing?

Like @bbxlr8 said, my thought was chain also.

A safety/anti-kick back chain is much different than a “regular” chain as I know them. Maybe that’s the issue?

Post a picture of the chain - could help.

 

[WFM]

Im not near my saw. Ill take a better photo tomorrow.
But here's a couple photos.
It says it comes with a new design chain called the X-cut. And it does cut fantastic.
Except for one thing.

 

[Ping]

Im not near my saw. Ill take a better photo tomorrow.
But here's a couple photos.
It says it comes with a new design chain called the X-cut. And it does cut fantastic.
Except for one thing.

Best I can tell is it looks like semi-chisel safety chain.
Did the kickback condition happen at the beginning or end of the cut?
Are you cutting on a pulling chain (bottom side of bar, chain moving towards the powerhead)?
Just a thought but, as you're cutting the pieces off the stump, could the weight of that log could be setting back putting pressure on the pushing side of the chain (top side, chain moving away from the powerhead) causing it to pinch slightly and push or kick back the saw. This would happen towards the end of the cut.
A wedge in the kerf would help that condition.
Whatever you do, be careful and stay safe.

 

[hagrid]

Operating at less than full speed can increase kickback opportunities.

 

[Daren Todd]

The Husqvarna chains tend to do that for some reason. I have that same model saw as well as the 450.

The bigger chips and catching the tip was when I would kick back for me.

Once the husqvarna chain went bad on mine, I switch over to Oregon speed chain.

M72 is the part number for the 18" bar.

M80 is the part number for the 20" bar.

I can buy a 3 pack of the Oregon speed chains for the same price as one of the Husqvarna chains on amazon.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

X-Cut is patterned similar to racing chain, it's very fast/aggressive square-ground chain and is not sharpened per the instructions on the box. It's much, much better than modern Oregon chain (which I've encountered many chrome hard-spots on while hand filing), so it's worth the money. X-Cut holds the sharpness for a "long" time under normal conditions, hardness is between modern Oregon (Chinese "okay" chain) and STIHL chain.

Over-all value wise, if you're looking for "value-based" chain it's going to be Chinese, and personally I'd go with "Duke's" from Saw Salvage. I run Carlton Chipper chain (imported) and super-aggressive STIHL chain that's "too dangerous" for the U.S. on the big saws and pole saw, and custom-filed Oregon on the Craftsman (basically a Johnsred saw) because I'm not a fan of dull chain.

 

[WFM]

When i removed the saw from the box. I could pull chain just barely along the bar and I couldn't lift the chain off the bar what so ever. I know to tight of a chain will burn up the bar. So I grabbed the wrench, loosened the bar, turned the screw slightly to loosen the chain slightly.
I had even considered that as the kickback issue.
The poster above is correct, when the stick of wood was almost cut all the way thru and leaned back. Lots of kick back.
A way different saw then the old one. Much lighter and more power.

 

[Ping]

When i removed the saw from the box. I could pull chain just barely along the bar and I couldn't lift the chain off the bar what so ever. I know to tight of a chain will burn up the bar. So I grabbed the wrench, loosened the bar, turned the screw slightly to loosen the chain slightly.
I had even considered that as the kickback issue.
The poster above is correct, when the stick of wood was almost cut all the way thru and leaned back. Lots of kick back.
A way different saw then the old one. Much lighter and more power.

Put a wedge in the kerf to prevent the lean back. Plastic preferred or even wood shims would work.