new owner of an L3010

[fyton2v]

Hi all, new tractor owner here.

As part of a real estate purchase, I'm now the (fortunate?) owner of an L3010 that's around 17 years old, or so. It came with the deal, and it's my first tractor. It runs. However, it's condition and maintenance history are highly questionable. Looking for some advice...

The tractor has a little under 1400 hours on it. For the more knowledgeable folks on this forum (which is pretty much everyone who is not currently me), what would you dig into first? I'm looking for advice on the obvious maintenance items that should be performed right away. Also, can someone recommend a decent factory service manual?

Thanks much,
George

 

[RCW]

Welcome!

Is it 4WD? Does it have a front end loader (FEL)?

A little about your machine - 3 tranny configurations:

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/4/1249-kubota-l3010.html

Looks like you will find Operating/Owner's and maybe Workshop Manuals (WSM) here:

http://kubotabooks.com/

Great time to read some before delving into it.

Much like anything mechanical, start with fluids, filters (fuel, oil, air), grease, etc. With EVERYTHING changed right now, you know the baseline for all the normal maintenance items.

While highly debated, consensus seems to be stick with Kubota branded filters and hydraulic fluid (although some good fluid substitutes for non-HST tractors).

Engine oil is at your desire, but make sure diesel-rated.

Lot of smart guys here. Feel free to ask questions as they come up!

 

[fyton2v]

Thanks, RCW! Will check out those links. The tractor does have a front end loader, an LA482 to be exact. It has a grading tool hooked up to the back, which has been modified with steel bars that fit common 3 yard-ish dumpster bins. The bars fit into the slots on the sides of the bin and the rear setup can lift the bin, then you can drive it wherever. I'll see if I can attach a pic.

One of the things I need to figure out is the lifting capacity of the rear hydraulics. The setup seems designed to dig, not lift. A 3 yard bin can get pretty darn heavy. It would be a shame to have the tractor start hemorrhaging hydraulic fluid just because I wanted to take the trash out.

 

[Lil Foot]

According to
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/4/1249-kubota-l3010.html
3 point lift capacity is 2200lbs.

 

[rbargeron]

On the good side, 1400 hours is still "young" for an L3010. Is it a gear type or does it have HST? Does it start easily when cold? On start up the exhaust can show either white, blue, or black smoke. Black is best - healthy engine. Post back with what you see.

 

[rjcorazza]

I traded my L3410 in 2 years ago with similar hours. I got a lot of service out of that machine.
If I were in your position, I would also recommend replacing all fluids and filters. Also consider cleaning it up real good to find leaks and other problems.
Enjoy!

 

[RCW]

Hard to tell from your picture - but looks like the tires are on backwards - maybe someone switched the wheels around to the opposite side?

The "V" of bar-tread tires usually going forward - where the narrow part of the "V" is pointed forward.

If they where using it primarily to move dumpsters backwards - might have changed them to the other orientation.

 

[fyton2v]

You guys are awesome. Black smoke on startup, and it starts very easily... when the stater motor is in the right position, that is. The starter grinds about half time you crank over the engine. It's on the list. I'm hoping it just needs a new starter.

The wheels are on backwards in that pic. They're not anymore. Funny story. In my first three days of prideful ownership, I got a flat on a rear wheel. The mounting brackets that secure the rim to the hub were pulling loose. The welds were breaking. A bit of sharp metal coming back through the rim punctured the tube. Took it a apart and welded the brackets back in place from the inside of the rim. The hub bolts may have been a little loose and the force from the wheel turning was tearing off the brackets. I'm not sure I've ever done anything harder than changing the tire on that tractor. Holy cow.

I definitely need to change all the fluids. I also think that the rear hydraulic piston may have a leak, or the hose connecting it may be leaking. It's a very slight thing though.

It takes a lot of oil.

 

[Dave_eng]

You guys are awesome. Black smoke on startup, and it starts very easily... when the stater motor is in the right position, that is. The starter grinds about half time you crank over the engine. It's on the list. I'm hoping it just needs a new starter.

The wheels are on backwards in that pic. They're not anymore. Funny story. In my first three days of prideful ownership, I got a flat on a rear wheel. The mounting brackets that secure the rim to the hub were pulling loose. The welds were breaking. A bit of sharp metal coming back through the rim punctured the tube. Took it a apart and welded the brackets back in place from the inside of the rim. The hub bolts may have been a little loose and the force from the wheel turning was tearing off the brackets. I'm not sure I've ever done anything harder than changing the tire on that tractor. Holy cow.

I definitely need to change all the fluids. I also think that the rear hydraulic piston may have a leak, or the hose connecting it may be leaking. It's a very slight thing though.

It takes a lot of oil.

Re your grinding starter:

Likely the Bendix drive is done.

This is a link to one on ebay, not necessarily for your tractor, but to show you what they look like and cost

https://www.amazon.com/STARTER-TRACTOR-E7195-63010-21163-7002-211637014/dp/B00E9G1CM6

The starter drive gear or Bendix drive is a one way clutch system to prevent the engine from rotating the starter at speeds which would cause it to self destruct. The Bendix drive drives the engine but will prevent the engine from rotating the starter.

Go to an independent starter and alternator repair shop. They will likely have the parts you need and replacing the starter will not be necessary

Dave

 

[rbargeron]

The starter grinds about half time you crank over the engine. It's on the list....

I'd suggest moving it to the top of the list. When it grinds, the starter's pinion gear is spinning against the FLYWHEEL teeth. This failure to engage properly can often be cured by a new starter (under $100 example here. Best to change it before the flywheel becomes damaged so much it needs replacement too - much bigger job.

Have fun with your new toy, er, tool ! Dick B

 

[fyton2v]

Got it. Thanks all. I ordered a new starter.

hey, while I have you still interested. So changing the fluids on this thing. I understand it has several drain plugs. What is the maximum amount of oil/fluid that will dump out from any of those plugs?

Thanks,
George

 

[RCW]

George- unless someone has your machine or similar, it will be a guess.
WSM might help some, but betting your going to trial by fire!
Good luck!


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[Russell King]

Got it. Thanks all. I ordered a new starter.



hey, while I have you still interested. So changing the fluids on this thing. I understand it has several drain plugs. What is the maximum amount of oil/fluid that will dump out from any of those plugs?



Thanks,

George

Like most oils- just a little more will drain out than the bucket can hold!
From the transmission it will be 10 or more gallons



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[fyton2v]

Fixed the starter today. The gear that contacts the flywheel looked to be in pretty good shape. As Dave stated, I guess the bendix drive was failing. I just replaced the whole starter motor as that seemed the easy thing to do for 80 bucks. Works like a champ.

Anyone have a wiring diagram for the ignition system? Need it to unravel another previous owner mystery. For some reason the ignition wiring is wrong. You have to start the engine via a button on the left side of the console. When the ignition is on... press that black button. The button looks like it really wants to be a kill switch. Not sure if this tractor is even supposed to have a traditional kill switch. To kill the engine now, I have to turn the ignition key into the start position. It's bass-ackwards.

Over the holiday weekend I'll be changing all the fluids. Fun time.

George

 

[fyton2v]

Never mind about that wiring diagram. Figured it out.

 

[wendol]

Like most oils- just a little more will drain out than the bucket can hold!
From the transmission it will be 10 or more gallons



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Previous L3010 owner here.......great tractor!! Speaking of changing the fluids, especially the HST fluids, I would recommend three things:
1. Get an owners manual (to indicate the various location of drain plugs, etc)
2. Mark you drain plugs with yellow paint (this will help with future drains)
3. Get a storage tote from Sam's or Walmart to drain the fluid into, as have in excess of 5 gallons of fluid to drain from about 4 +- locations.

Hope that helps......good luck!!

 

[kubotapartsman]

See attached file for fluid capacities.

 

[poebrian]

I am also a new owner to this site and a l3010 hst 2002. I am having 2 problems.

Not sure where to fill hydro fluid. and also
my L,M,H shifter is stuck in m gear and wont shift into n or l or h?

any thoughts?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I am also a new owner to this site and a l3010 hst 2002. I am having 2 problems.

Not sure where to fill hydro fluid. and also
my L,M,H shifter is stuck in m gear and wont shift into n or l or h?

any thoughts?

The fill port is on the back of the tractor along with the gauge (sight glass).

Spray down the pivot points on the linkage with a rust breaker like PB Blaster.