With only 11 hours on the tractor the tach/houmeter quit. Doing a search didn't turn up any useful information and the dealer I bought my L3800 is a long way off. I'll give them a call but does anyone have any ideas?
new L3800, tach/houmeter quit
- Thread starter Islandguy
- Start date
Islandguy - I had the same problem happen to mine. There is a cable that runs down the Right side of the tractor motor (when sitting on the tractor facing forward). The cable is in a black tube if I recall correctly. It runs down to the front of the tractor towards the front near the radiator. It attaches near the fuel injector pump if I'm not mistaken. I had a problem with mine a few months back. It resembles the same type of cable as you would see on a handle bar mounted brake on a dirt bike or bike. If you find the cable and follow it down to the connecting you can loosen the cable off. There should be a small 1/4 inch or so piece of metal attached to the end of the cable that slips over a notch groove on the box its connected to. I hope all this is making since. I have a hard time explaining this while typing. On mine the small metal piece had broken off the cable and was no longer turning when the motor was running. The cable spins with the RPMs of the motor and then in turn runs the instrument cluster off that reading (tach and hour meter). When I took the cable off the piece of metal fell right out and was obvious why my tach and hour meter stopped working. I dropped my tractor off at the dealer and it was ready for me the next day. All under warranty. Not sure how hard it is to change the cable out on you own if your that far from your dealer. But most likely thats your problem, The cable has broken at that joint and it no longer turning.
UnionMan
UnionMan
gpreuss
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L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
Kubota has a history of malfunctioning tacho/hour meters. Most that I have read about happened around 700 hours. My old 185DT quit at 739 hours. The cable was OK, but the gear inside the motor had broken. I never was upset enough to tear apart the engine to fix it, or pay the dealer's rates to do it.
At 11 hours it should surely be under warranty. Is there a closer dealer? Any of them should be able to do warranty work. I would not want to replace that cable, if that is the only problem. It could be a pain-in-the-neck job.
At 11 hours it should surely be under warranty. Is there a closer dealer? Any of them should be able to do warranty work. I would not want to replace that cable, if that is the only problem. It could be a pain-in-the-neck job.
Yep, that was my problem. The cable parted at the engine end just like UnionMan suggested. I called the dealer and was told I must replace the entire cable (cable & jacket). I'm wondering if just the new cable couldn't be inserted up into the engine end of the old jacket (11 hours on it). Didn't we do that with cars back when?? The cable broke just up inside the jacket and a little tapping on the jacked let the broken end come down enough so I could grab it and easily pull it out.
Even though yours is under warranty, this is a reminder that Service Dept Vic (moderator and general overseer on this website) has a repair procedure that has enjoyed success by other posters. Do a search and / or look in the 'articles' section.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
Thanks, I did find helpful info assuming that most Kubotas use the same general design in tach drive and cables. Sounds like lubing the cable with grease every couple years is recommended so I think that answers my question about installing the new cable without having to pull the instrument cluster, just slide the new one up from the engine end. Thanks again, my new cable should be arriving this week, I'll report back.
The EXACT same thing happened to my L2501 yesterday. It has 70 hours on it. Mine broke right at the end of the wire/beginning of connection point on the end that goes into the sending unit by the pump.
My question is, on a 2501. It's a little tough to see how to disconnect from tach on rear of instrument cluster/display. Do I only remove the 4 screw labeled "4" that tie the plastic cluster to the frame? What next? I assume I replace the whole. Assembly. Does it need any oil or grease before reinstalling ? Thank you all for the excellent advice!
My question is, on a 2501. It's a little tough to see how to disconnect from tach on rear of instrument cluster/display. Do I only remove the 4 screw labeled "4" that tie the plastic cluster to the frame? What next? I assume I replace the whole. Assembly. Does it need any oil or grease before reinstalling ? Thank you all for the excellent advice!
