New L3301 HST comes with questions

[BigBassBrent]

Hello everyone from central Texas! I’m the proud new owner of a Kubota L3301 HST with R1 tires. It was delivered on 1/20/15. This is my first post here.

In addition to the tractor, I got a LA525 loader, 5’ Mohawk rotary cutter and an Armstrong BB06 6’ box blade. I’ll plug my dealer right quick because they have been great. If you’re in the central Texas area and need anything Kubota, go see Chad at Taylor Equipment!

We purchased 10 acres of raw land back in December, where we plan to build our future home. The land is about 60% dense oak forest, 40% pasture, very little rock with mostly clay soil. We hope to do much of the work ourselves with the trusty Kubota. Still on the list of goodies to buy is a backhoe, a rear blade, and probably a middle buster or subsoiler.

I will be constructing about 300’ of driveway, laying water/power lines, digging septic, laying walking paths and trails, mowing, clearing brush, along with some site prep for various foundations. And don’t let me forget the trees! I have lots of oak trees that need to be dug along with what seems like tons of downed dead trees. My tractor and I should have plenty to do for a while! I know it’s not the optimal tool for all those jobs, but I have plenty of time and look forward to learning a lot during the process.

My previous workhorse was a Craftsman 18hp lawn tractor. Haha! With this orange beauty being my first real tractor, of course, I have some newbie questions.

1. On the top link and check chains, do you put a wrench to the locking nuts or just hand-tighten them?

2. Can someone point me to a resource or suggest all the common spare parts I should keep on hand? (shear pins/bolts, nuts, bolts, fuses, etc) The mower talks about shear pins but does not list what size in the manual. Are they universal or something?

3. Can someone point me a similar list of maintenance items I may need to use between the scheduled maintenance at the dealer? (Oil, grease, WD40, etc) I have a grease gun for my boat trailer which is filled with marine grease, will this be ok to use on the Kubota?

4. Does anyone know what size clevis I need for the drawbar? I have looked at Tractor Supply and I think that 7/8 might be the right size, but they have two to choose from. 7/8 in. x 3-7/8 in. OR 7/8 in. x 3 in. I could always buy one, and take it back if it’s wrong, I was just hoping someone could save me a trip.

5. I am new to HST machines. It seems to me like you don’t even need a clutch. The delivery guy told me that you can shift between 4wd/2wd and change the gear range lever without even pressing the clutch as long as you are not moving. He also mentioned that some of the new larger HST Kubotas don’t even have a clutch. Besides the previously mentioned shifting, why else do you need a clutch on a HST? Should you depress it when you engage the PTO drive? What happens to the PTO if its running and I press the clutch? I haven’t tried to start it without pressing the clutch, although the owner’s manual states that it should be depressed to start.

6. I want to move my rear wheels out to the widest setting since our land is mostly on slope. It looks to me like I can lift the rear of the tractor and swap the wheels from one side to the other, putting the part that is currently facing out to the inside of the opposite side. Is that all there is to it? Will a floor jack and jack stands get the job done?

I only got to play on the new tractor for about an hour before it got dark on me. I managed to shred a couple acres of field at our current house. Much faster and more quiet (even with the HST) than the ol’ craftsman!

I’m sure I will have more questions as I get more seat time. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

-Brent

 

[ILPlumber]

I use my clutch only for starting. Nothing else ever

That's on a 3130 HST

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have some newbie questions.

1. On the top link and check chains, do you put a wrench to the locking nuts or just hand-tighten them?

Wrench tighten the check chains hand tighten the top link.

2. Can someone point me to a resource or suggest all the common spare parts I should keep on hand? (shear pins/bolts, nuts, bolts, fuses, etc) The mower talks about shear pins but does not list what size in the manual. Are they universal or something?

You'll learn as you go every model of tractor, model of implement, operation conditions and person is different on their needs.

3. Can someone point me a similar list of maintenance items I may need to use between the scheduled maintenance at the dealer? (Oil, grease, WD40, etc) I have a grease gun for my boat trailer which is filled with marine grease, will this be ok to use on the Kubota?

Same as above, but I would get EP grease for the tractors loader and other needs.

4. Does anyone know what size clevis I need for the drawbar? I have looked at Tractor Supply and I think that 7/8 might be the right size, but they have two to choose from. 7/8 in. x 3-7/8 in. OR 7/8 in. x 3 in. I could always buy one, and take it back if it’s wrong, I was just hoping someone could save me a trip.

It's all a matter of preference.

5. I am new to HST machines. It seems to me like you don’t even need a clutch. The delivery guy told me that you can shift between 4wd/2wd and change the gear range lever without even pressing the clutch as long as you are not moving. He also mentioned that some of the new larger HST Kubotas don’t even have a clutch. Besides the previously mentioned shifting, why else do you need a clutch on a HST? Should you depress it when you engage the PTO drive? What happens to the PTO if its running and I press the clutch? I haven’t tried to start it without pressing the clutch, although the owner’s manual states that it should be depressed to start.

If you push the Clutch in all operations will stop, movement and PTO.

6. I want to move my rear wheels out to the widest setting since our land is mostly on slope. It looks to me like I can lift the rear of the tractor and swap the wheels from one side to the other, putting the part that is currently facing out to the inside of the opposite side. Is that all there is to it? Will a floor jack and jack stands get the job done?

#1 a very solid and stable jack and jack stand surface!
What weight rating are the jack stands and Jack? make sure they rate out to more than what the total tractor weighs to be safe.

The tractor pivots side to side on the front axle so be aware of that.
It's a long way down for your tractor to fall with the back wheels off so take it slow.
Break all the bolts loose before lifting, lift the whole rear off the ground about 1/8 to 1/4 as lifting those big tires a bigger distance is impossible without help, a cherry picker (engine lift) is a huge help, have help unless your big, and keep critters and little ones completely out of the way!

If the tires are loaded with ballast they are going to be extremely heavy and awkward to move.

 

[Orange man]

You need to use the clutch to start and stop pto. I idle tractor down, push in clutch and pull pto lever on and slowly release clutch and bring engine up to pto rpms on tach. I suggest that you bring tractor back down to idle and push clutch in to stop pto. By idling down you put a lot less stress on the driveline.

 

[BigBassBrent]

Thanks you all for the replies. Your answers have been helpful. It good to know about the clutch and its use on the HST.

I’ll check my jack and stands tonight. They should be fine, as they are the same jack and stands I have used on my old F250 7.3L 4x4. That sucker is heavy and I have had all the wheels off and left it on the stands for days. I’ll take a look at it all tonight and decide if it’s something I can do safely. I don’t have any ballast installed. If I’m not confident about it, I will just wait and have the dealer do it at the first 50 hr service.

Thanks again!

Brent

 

[CaveCreekRay]

What Wolfman says...

1. On the top link and check chains, do you put a wrench to the locking nuts or just hand-tighten them?

If you are just doing a quick chore, I hand tighten the drag links. They'll loosen over time and this is the main reason people are going to "quick hitch arrangements" with upgraded lower stabilizer links that are easier to adjust. Some of the 3-pt mounts don't require adjustment because the attach points are mounted in a box frame. I don't swap implements too much but I went with Pats Easy Hitches that bolts hooks to the 3pt arms. That makes picking up an implement very easy as you only have to attach the upper link and you are off.

2. Can someone point me to a resource or suggest all the common spare parts I should keep on hand? (shear pins/bolts, nuts, bolts, fuses, etc)

I keep lynch pins on all the implements as well as a few spares handy. They are cheap at your dealer.

3. Can someone point me a similar list of maintenance items I may need to use between the scheduled maintenance at the dealer?

I would think the marine grease would be fine for your tractor. Moisture and dust is the biggest problem with the FEL joints. They are pin joints without bearings. Keeping them clean and lubed regularly is the key element in their longevity. We lube them every ten hours more to clean them out than to add more grease. I use a sticky synthetic made by Red Line.

I add Stanadyne Performance and Diesel Lubricity additive to my fuel to help keep the fuel pump and injectors working at their best. Not cheap but it doesn't take much of each every fill up.

I go through cans of WD-40 to clean off the excess grease "spooge" in the FEL joints. I also use it on the engine and transmission case, especially around the PTO to keep the rust down and to make it look better after detailing once a month. Nu Finish is a great long-term wax to keep your paint looking well. If you can keep the machine garaged, that makes all the difference. Even a cheapie shade structure with sides will help dramatically. Your paint has no clear coat and will fade in six months if left out in the elements. I know because the previous owner of my machine did just that.

Next time at the dealership, pick up a few oil filters. You should show a change at 50 hrs and then 100hrs and then every 200 there after. I do mine every 100hrs regardless. At 100 hours, you might consider switching to a synthetic for the motor. I highly recommend having spare hydraulic filters handy as you will change one at 50hrs on most machines. When you upgrade to SUDT (synthetic) hydraulic fluid, you should hear lower noise levels from the HST. That is a ways off for you.

5. Besides the previously mentioned shifting, why else do you need a clutch on a HST?

Lawyers! They want to make sure nothing is engaged at start up. You may experience sudden loss of power events because of the lawyer switch(s)in and under your seat. Lean a little to the right and the seat flexes, the switch thinks you are out of the seat, and the fuel shutoff solenoid gets closed. Party over. (Bend the bracket up if this happens to you...)

6. I want to move my rear wheels out to the widest setting since our land is mostly on slope.

You are a brave man. I'd check with the dealer first. My rims are not reversible but, even if they were, being water filled they weigh something like 350lbs apiece! Be very careful!!

Have fun!!! Keep your loads low on those hills! I am currently slinging boulders from my bucket on relatively level ground and the tractor can feel "tippy" with a load almost instantaneously, even with the load dragging the ground! Go slow. Be ready to unload in an instant. Use rear weight if at all possible while lifting.

WELCOME!

Ray

(I used to live in the lovely town of Abilene while in the Air Force... Best BBQ on the planet!!!)

 

[BigBassBrent]

Thanks Ray! Your post was a tremendous help.

My dealer is doing the first 50 hr service. Free labor if I buy the parts. After that I plan to do most the maintenance myself. I planned to go synthetic when we change the oil. I run synthetic in all my vehicles.

I didn't know that about the paint. Good thing I made room in my garage for storage. I have used NU Finish in the past. I'll pick up another bottle. Gotta keep this pumpkin looking pretty!

There is no ballast in my wheels. We plan to get a backhoe and leave it on most of the time so I think that will be plenty of rear weight once we get that sucker on there. They are two part wheels. I would only be removing the rim and tire, the disk part stays attached to the hub. There is only 4 bolts holding the rim to the disk. I'm not sure that I will have the leverage I need to break them loose since the nuts are on the inside of the rim. I'll take a closer look tonight, after I mow the neighbor’s 3 acre pasture.

Thanks again.

 

[aeblank]

I did mine on my L3940 a few weeks ago.

Mine came apart easily, so I expect yours would too. A few whacks with a deadblow, and they loosened right up. If not, loosen the bolts, sit it down, and drive forward/backward a tire rotation.

Anyway, I had one friend/neighbor help me. We did a lot of up/down jockeying, but it wasn't bad. I think it took 2 hours. Mine have rimguard in them. I hate to know what they weigh, we were careful to keep them upright.

 

[BigBassBrent]

I did mine on my L3940 a few weeks ago.

Mine came apart easily, so I expect yours would too. A few whacks with a deadblow, and they loosened right up. If not, loosen the bolts, sit it down, and drive forward/backward a tire rotation.

Anyway, I had one friend/neighbor help me. We did a lot of up/down jockeying, but it wasn't bad. I think it took 2 hours. Mine have rimguard in them. I hate to know what they weigh, we were careful to keep them upright.

Cool! This gives me more confidence. Thanks for the pic!

 

[BigBassBrent]

I did mine on my L3940 a few weeks ago.

Mine came apart easily, so I expect yours would too. A few whacks with a deadblow, and they loosened right up. If not, loosen the bolts, sit it down, and drive forward/backward a tire rotation.

Anyway, I had one friend/neighbor help me. We did a lot of up/down jockeying, but it wasn't bad. I think it took 2 hours. Mine have rimguard in them. I hate to know what they weigh, we were careful to keep them upright.

My wheels are a little different with the R1 tires but I think the concept is still the same. I need to attach to the outer most tabs you see on the outside of the rim by moving the wheel to the opposite side and putting the currently facing outside to the inside.

Thanks again to everyone for all the help.

 

[aeblank]

Same situation, just less stable tire, I'd guess. Mine moved out probably 4" per side.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That style of rim with a dished rim center and outer rim ring can be set to several different widths, all the way from very narrow to very wide, and in some cases there is no need to change rims from side to side.

While this chart is not for your exact model so width of yours can vary, but it's similar in rim set up.

 

[BigBassBrent]

That style of rim with a dished rim center and outer rim ring can be set to several different widths, all the way from very narrow to very wide, and in some cases there is no need to change rims from side to side.

While this chart is not for your exact model so width of yours can vary, but it's similar in rim set up.

Thank you very much for this. My manual has a similar diagram, but the one you posted makes more sense to me. My wheels look like they are currently set at the middle position, or 47.1". According to my manual, I only have three positions the rims can be set to.

The FEL manual states that the rear wheels should be set to a width of 43.9" or more. I am OK with my current setting of 47.1" but would like to max it out at 50.8" for the added stability.

Is there anything to be concerned about when considering setting the wheel width to max? All of my implements are 5’ or wider.

Thanks again for everyone’s input. Makes being a new tractor owner much easier!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Is there anything to be concerned about when considering setting the wheel width to max?

No not really the rear axle setup can handle the wheels out as far as you can get them, they could even handle spacers and dual wheels if you wanted to go that route.

Note: If you set the wheels all the way out, and run over your wife's flowers that could be a concern!

 

[BigBassBrent]

No not really the rear axle setup can handle the wheels out as far as you can get them, they could even handle spacers and dual wheels if you wanted to go that route.

haha! Thanks again. Now I just need this work day to end so I can go play with my new machine!

Have a great day.

 

[Billdog350]

BigBassBrent, welcome to OTT!

When you're done flipping the tires out (this isn't a horrible job if you have a large breaker bar and the right size socket, Harbor Freight has a large set that will fit and you can get on sale for less than the price of a single socket at Sears). Make sure to properly torque the nuts. Then drive around on your tractor for a few hours and RECHECK THE TORQUE. I can't tell you how many customers I've seen that never retorqued their wheel nuts (lug nuts or rim nuts) and elongated the holes. That's an EXPENSIVE mistake! The bolts are usually harder than the rims so that means the holes get elongated and you need to get new rims or hubs!

Enjoy your machine! Consider renting a mini excavator for significant trenching and excavation like a foundation once you're comfortable with machinery operation. The backhoe is a big investment and doesn't work as quickly or get as much done as an excavator.

 

[BigBassBrent]

What Wolfman says...

5. Besides the previously mentioned shifting, why else do you need a clutch on a HST?

You may experience sudden loss of power events because of the lawyer switch(s)in and under your seat. Lean a little to the right and the seat flexes, the switch thinks you are out of the seat, and the fuel shutoff solenoid gets closed. Party over. (Bend the bracket up if this happens to you...)

Thank you so much for this. I got to spend a couple hours mowing yesterday (or brushhogging as most call it). Had I of not read this beforehand, I would have put the tractor away thinking something was wrong with reverse gear. I am still getting use to the tractor, so when I was backing up the mower under a low tree, I was tilting the seat to better see where the mower was going. It almost stalled on me 4 different times. As soon as I got it back in the garage, I bent that tab down as you suggested!

I did not tackle the wheel job. I am going to wait for my 50 hour service at the dealer and have him add ballast and move the wheels out to the furthest position.

Also, thank you Billdog. Your comments made me decide to just let the dealer do it! I dont need ruined rims just because I didn’t torque something properly. I don’t even have a torque wrench big enough for those monsters!

 

[gpreuss]

The widest setting of the rear tires gives you an overall width of about 66". That is about the same as the FEL bucket width; something to shoot for. My first Kubota had a wider stance than the bucket width, and it was always a problem.
The widest setting becomes the most stable on the side of a hill - go for it!
Filling the rear tires gives you another 250 lbs/tire. Even with the backhoe you will be glad you have it. Without the backhoe, filled tires AND 600-1000 lbs of rear ballast are a must if you are doing anything with the front loader.
I have filled rears and 140 lbs/side of wheel weights. With the bucket empty, the tractor will skid down a fair grade, unless I'm in 4WD, so I'm in 4WD most of the time. I usually keep something on the 3ph, just for the weight.
With the FEL, backhoe and filled rears, do not be surprised if you cannot drive up a fair hill wide open in high. I have gears, and can only use 8th on the level or going downhill.

 

[BigBassBrent]

The widest setting of the rear tires gives you an overall width of about 66". That is about the same as the FEL bucket width; something to shoot for. My first Kubota had a wider stance than the bucket width, and it was always a problem.
The widest setting becomes the most stable on the side of a hill - go for it!
Filling the rear tires gives you another 250 lbs/tire. Even with the backhoe you will be glad you have it. Without the backhoe, filled tires AND 600-1000 lbs of rear ballast are a must if you are doing anything with the front loader.
I have filled rears and 140 lbs/side of wheel weights. With the bucket empty, the tractor will skid down a fair grade, unless I'm in 4WD, so I'm in 4WD most of the time. I usually keep something on the 3ph, just for the weight.
With the FEL, backhoe and filled rears, do not be surprised if you cannot drive up a fair hill wide open in high. I have gears, and can only use 8th on the level or going downhill.

Thanks for your reply gpreuss. My box blade is about 460lbs and I have that on for ballast right now. I am going to chain another 160+lbs of weightlifting weights to my BB to make it dig a little better, so that should help balast as well.

I'll be getting those rears filled and spaced out soon. I wont be trying to navigate any of the steep stuff until I get a lot more seat time and get the tractor set up right. All the work I need to do right now is on a very mild grade. After the house is setup and we are moved, I plan to start cleaning up the forest area which is pretty sloped down towards the creek at the back of our property. I have several large dead oaks that need to come down for safety reasons.

Have a great weekend everyone. Thanks again for helping this tractor newbie out.

 

[cstone]

The product is fine but do not buy from Pats website because the return policy is a joke, no spacer bar, plus you will pay about $60 more than if you bought from Rural King: http://www.ruralking.com/pats-easy-c...t-1-w-bar.html. Even Amazon is a lot less.