Hey guys! I am new here. I have a l345dt that has been great. However going to be doing some much needed work and looking for advice. PTO will not engage low. It will go into high no problem. Also the clutch is either worn out or fused as the PTO never shuts off unless shifted to neutral. I am likely going to need to split the tractor and am looking for guidance on that process. Also a list of things to go ahead and do while tractor is split. I will also be rebuilding both front drives with new bearings and seals and tapping the L1720 Loader into the tractors hydraulics (currently run on PTO pump). Any help with the process of splitting to gain access to PTO internals is greatly appreciated!
New here! - Kubota l345dt
- Thread starter 68camino
- Start date
Welcome,I split my L275 last year,it seems it took the longest dealing with sheet metal than any thing else.Work on a smooth level place,pretty simple job.
You need to determine if your tractor has an independent pto. Not all do and those that dont act like yours is now. The lack of a low pto speed may mean a shift fork is out of position internally.
Dave
p.s. I found I have a copy of the Owner's manual for your tractor and it shows a dual plate dry clutch setup.
The documents for tractors of this era are full or errors or incomplete info so I add that caution.
I will send you a private message so you can provide your email and then I can send you a copy of the manual.
Do not provide emails in the public sections of the forum.
Dave
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Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Often the clutch plate gets stuck to the fly wheel and won’t release when you press the clutch pedal down. If it was sitting for a long time without the clutch pedal blocked down I would assume that is the problem but @Dave_eng post about double clutch plates may be at odds with that diagnosis! Can you start the tractor in gear with the clutch pedal pressed down? If so then your drive clutch plate is not stuck but possibly the pto clutch plate is?
On my older tractor there is two clutch positions off or on (no go or go). That is the same clutch for the PTO. On your tractor it may be push clutch half down and not go but PTO still going, press clutch pedal all the way down and everything stops.
Do you have a a two stage clutch or do you know?
Splitting the tractor will get you access to the clutch plate and pressure plate. I would replace the pressure plate, the clutch plate, the throw out bearing and the pilot bushing in the flywheel if I split the tractor. You may want to even replace the rear main seal while you are there.
Splitting the tractor will get you access to the gear case and PTO GEARS but not the PTO shaft out the rear of the tractor. Taking the top cover off the transmission where the shifters are gets you access to the shift forks and allows for some repair of the shifter mechanism and allows visual access to the gears in the gear case (may be additional covers to remove on top of the transmission)
The front axle will have a center pivot that will allow the engine to flop to the side so you need to put blocking from the axle to the engine before you remove the rear half of the tractor. You will need to support the front half and the rear half of the tractor while you spread them apart so that support needs to have wheels on it.
Kubota USA dot com has great illustrated parts list to see how many of these things go together.
On my older tractor there is two clutch positions off or on (no go or go). That is the same clutch for the PTO. On your tractor it may be push clutch half down and not go but PTO still going, press clutch pedal all the way down and everything stops.
Do you have a a two stage clutch or do you know?
Splitting the tractor will get you access to the clutch plate and pressure plate. I would replace the pressure plate, the clutch plate, the throw out bearing and the pilot bushing in the flywheel if I split the tractor. You may want to even replace the rear main seal while you are there.
Splitting the tractor will get you access to the gear case and PTO GEARS but not the PTO shaft out the rear of the tractor. Taking the top cover off the transmission where the shifters are gets you access to the shift forks and allows for some repair of the shifter mechanism and allows visual access to the gears in the gear case (may be additional covers to remove on top of the transmission)
The front axle will have a center pivot that will allow the engine to flop to the side so you need to put blocking from the axle to the engine before you remove the rear half of the tractor. You will need to support the front half and the rear half of the tractor while you spread them apart so that support needs to have wheels on it.
Kubota USA dot com has great illustrated parts list to see how many of these things go together.
I definitely have a two stage clutch. Haven't tried starting in gear. I figured if I am going to split it I should find out what all I should replace while it is apart as to not have to do it again anytime soon. Definitely interested in removing cover to see what I can before splitting. It's interesting.... If I push PTO into high I feel a very positive lock per say where I feel it engage. When I push into low I don't feel that. The lever goes forward almost the same distance and then just suddenly stops. Feels to me like it should go just a little further to feel the detent lock in. Over my thanksgiving break the plan is to:
Pull and rebuild both front drives
Reroute loader to run on tractor hydraulics
Replace loader hoses
Split tractor and fix low PTO issue as well as inspect and replace clutch if needed.
Flush and Clean radiator.
Replace thermostat
Have injectors rebuilt
Rewire headlights
The list is growing lol....
rbargeron
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
The L345 has a 2-stage clutch, one disk for travel, the other for pto. They are not separately adjustable like on other models. As the pedal linkage is adjusted for wear, it gets to a point where the pto clutch no longer disengages.
The good news is that when you split the tractor for a new travel clutch you likely wont need to touch the second (pto) stage. With a new full-thickness travel disk the pto will again disengage normally with pedal full-down.
I'd do the clutch first, splitting at the clutch housing see this thread for more info.
The low pto speed not working could be a broken weld on the outside lever, but could be broken parts inside. Access to that would be by a second split behind the pto gearbox (can't see any of it thru the trans top cover on this model).
Assuming your tractor has a 1720 loader, splitting further back will mean unbolting the rear part of the loader frame. I broke the low pto gear on my first L345. The internal shafts have splined couplings at each housing. I found the teeth broken off the gear, lying in the bottom. Taking it apart isn't trivial but L345's are almost always well-worth fixing. Best luck, Dick B.
The good news is that when you split the tractor for a new travel clutch you likely wont need to touch the second (pto) stage. With a new full-thickness travel disk the pto will again disengage normally with pedal full-down.
I'd do the clutch first, splitting at the clutch housing see this thread for more info.
The low pto speed not working could be a broken weld on the outside lever, but could be broken parts inside. Access to that would be by a second split behind the pto gearbox (can't see any of it thru the trans top cover on this model).
Assuming your tractor has a 1720 loader, splitting further back will mean unbolting the rear part of the loader frame. I broke the low pto gear on my first L345. The internal shafts have splined couplings at each housing. I found the teeth broken off the gear, lying in the bottom. Taking it apart isn't trivial but L345's are almost always well-worth fixing. Best luck, Dick B.
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Thank you for the information! Could I test the clutch theory by changing the adjustment to see if the PTO will then disengage at pedal full in? (Would obviously then adjust back) Also, what is best source for parts at a reasonable price? I just added all parts to my cart on Messicks for rebuilding front drive on both sides. Total came to about $750. Is that fair? That was for o rings, bushings, bearings, seals, gasket, etc.
Most dealers sell at Kubota's suggested retail price, so one is as good as the other. Messicks has a good inventory of parts, but I suggest that you try to buy your parts from a local Kubota dealer. That way, if you should need any technical advice, you have a local dealer to fall back on. Should you need a part in a hurry then you could source that part from Messicks. Today almost all the dealers that have an online presence charge sales tax and shipping costs. By buying locally you will only have to pay the sales tax. Just make sure that the dealer places your parts order on their regular stock order, so you don't have to pay to ship. My local dealer charges shipping on everything that they order that isn't in stock, but it comes in on their stock order. They raped me once on some shims that weighed less than 2 ounces by charging me $20 shipping. For that reason, I no longer buy anything from them unless I absolutely have to.
rbargeron
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
Yes you could adjust the clutch pedal rod back to its old length to verify it disengages the pto (travel clutch may no longer drive). For the clutch i keep an extra one like this on hand - used in lots of models and is good quality. Put in a new release bearing too. On the front end job, I'd wait til after the clutch/pto job. to take the front end apart to see what's actually needed.
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Okay thank you. I just know that both front drives leak and have a decent gap (1/16 to 1/8 inch) and up and down play when the front end is in the air. Just wanted to be sure they don't damage anything else by being worn out for too long. I am currently waiting on a price on a good used PTO low gear to see what that will cost me if mine is indeed chewed up.