New here, help needed

[clark_bailey]

Can the threaded shaft on this top link be straightened?, the new end piece is expensive! It is the backwards (left hand) thread side.

I also have stripped gears on the leveling box on the hitch. Can this be repaired reasonably? Who can it be sent to and not get robbed? I cannot even get it apart, the shaft (threaded section) has a roll pin I cannot get out. New one is 300 plus dollars, ouch!

Help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Butch]

Clark... that's above my pay grade... ouch
Butch

PS....That is a top link is it not? If so measure it... I may have an extra or two...

 

[traildust]

Is the roll pin acting like a lock to keep the threaded rod end from coming all the way out?

If that is the case just work at it and get that thing out. Can it be drilled through? Is it too small to tap and thread to pull with a screw? Just ideas that have worked for me.

When you get the threaded rod end out I have another idea. Of course your gonna have to find the right pitch and thread direction nuts, but find some.
With those threaded on now you can use the nuts as the pressure points on a hydraulic press to straighten the rod end.
The threads will not be touched and will not be damaged.
Try this nice and easy in small bites. Heating might help.

Sadly though, when metal is worked as in bending, it will happen again next time with less force.

The gears that are stripped. Is that the one that raises the lifting arms? Can you provide a picture of this?


Good luck,
Scott

 

[clark_bailey]

Clark... that's above my pay grade... ouch
Butch

PS....That is a top link is it not? If so measure it... I may have an extra or two...

Hey Butch, the pic is of the top link yes. It is from end to end 11.5 inches when removed. It is the end that has the backwards threads. Thanks, CB

 

[Eric McCarthy]

You can get an entire new top link from Agri Supply for less then 20 bucks or just the end link for less then 10 bucks


http://mower-blades.agrisupply.com/search?w=top+link&x=0&y=0&asug=

Im sure Tractor Supply has them as well for cheap.

 

[clark_bailey]

Is the roll pin acting like a lock to keep the threaded rod end from coming all the way out?

No that roll pin is out on the top link, I can remove the top link that is bent, just wondering if it can be fixed or replaced cheaper than with the Kubota expensive replacement part.

Also.... the other part is the leveling assembly box on the hitch, the gears are shot in it. I can get the top gear out and see the gear on the long threaded part, it is shot too. Thing is I cannot get the roll pin out to remove the long threaded shaft, tried everything I have access to but I have failed.

 

[clark_bailey]

You can get an entire new top link from Agri Supply for less then 20 bucks or just the end link for less then 10 bucks



Im sure Tractor Supply has them as well for cheap.

Ahhhhh, so the local Kubota store was not correct when they told me only the factory kubota part would screw into my factory kubota top link threads?

 

[dusty-t]

Hi Clark, welcome to the forum. I agree with Eric on the top link. I am surprised your dealer is dinging you like that. Most dealers have a supply of aftermarket toplinks, pins and such. that are much cheaper and of good quality. As far as that leveler, someone on here will have experienced with this. Good luck and keep us posted. Dusty

 

[Eric McCarthy]

A cat 1 three point hitch is universal and common on any tractor. Does not matter of its Kubota, John Deere, Ford, Case. You can use 3pt parts from anyones brand or buy aftermarket parts as well.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Oh and I did the same thing you did, I bent the snot out of my top link and fixed it out in the field with the trailer hitch on my truck a C clamp and a pipe wrench, It screwed it back in place and it went back straight but that was a temp fix to let me finish up the job. I had to go out and get an entire new top link and like 2 more to go along incase it happened again. I had a spare at the house and one in the truck.

 

[clark_bailey]

Hi Clark, welcome to the forum. I agree with Eric on the top link. I am surprised your dealer is dinging you like that. Most dealers have a supply of aftermarket toplinks, pins and such. that are much cheaper and of good quality. As far as that leveler, someone on here will have experienced with this. Good luck and keep us posted. Dusty

Yup, I saw the ends there in the store but the parts guy said they were for the aftermarket top links and they were different threads than kubota uses. Shoot, if that is the case I will stop at the Co-op on the way home in the morning after my shift tonight and get a left hand thread new end piece. As far as the leveling thing, I dunno what to do. I know 300 plus bucks for a new one is not an option.

 

[pat331]

clark,

before you drop $300 on a new one, check West Kentucky Tractor Parts at http://www.wkytp.com/. I'll bet they have one for a lot less money.

 

[dusty-t]

Clark your dealer was right aftermarket ends won't fit your Kubota top link. We are not talking about the ends being 30 or 40 dollars we are saying you can get a whole complete toplink for that money. So don't waste money on an end, buy the whole toplink. Dusty

 

[Eric McCarthy]

yeah what he said!

 

[traildust]

yeah what he said!

What he say

Scott

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Scott


Dude I was agreeing with what Dusty said, get the whole shebang for less then what one part will cost ya!

 

[traildust]

Scott


Dude I was agreeing with what Dusty said, get the whole shebang for less then what one part will cost ya!

But I don't see why it would cost me


Scott

 

[Eric McCarthy]

z i p i t !!!!!!

 

[clark_bailey]

New top link: done
New adjustable lift arm??: Finally got the old one apart, it was a mess! Threads on the gear shaft and female threads on the lower lift arm assembly were shot! Gonna put the shaft on a lathe and turn the messed up threads down smooth and then make new threads on the clean shaft, probably 1/2 inch course is the best solution at this point. Then take the female threads side and cut it off, weld on a new nut (in whatever threads I put on the shaft after turning and threading), and walla..... Should work great then. I think the whole problem was something got in the threads and destroyed them to the point the lift (when the crank was turned) no longer had purchase and it just spun round and round. It was jacked up!

 

[handyman]

Some one stripped mine out also and put jb weld on threads and lift arm. Put it in my vice broke it loose to messed up to try to fix. I welded nuts on one end cut threads off other welded threads on that end wala worked for me.handy