New Guy with G1800 fuel issue

[GreentoOrange]

Just got a G1800 with HST. It was chugging and choking badly and now wont start.

After cleaning air filter, i then decided to install new one and then both fuel filters. After first fuel filter change, the filter didn’t refill with fuel. I bled the lines using air bleeder nut, but no help. Then i loosened injector lines. Still no fuel. Im now thinking fuel pump, unless someone suggests otherwise. ideas?

Also because i backed the tractor into a shed against a wall, i need to move it to access pump. How do i put unit in neutral so i can push it?

Thanks!

 

[D2Cat]

GtO, you said, "After first fuel filter change, the filter didn’t refill with fuel."

If you're not getting fuel there you won't be getting any further down the fuel line. Might want to check before any filters right out of the tank. You may have something in the tank causing a restriction. Could be leaves, bugs, pieces of rags, foil from additive cap.... You have to follow the fuel step by step.

 

[BruceP]

Does your G1800 have an electric 'lift pump' which moves fuel from the tank to the engine? The lift-pump makes a "clicking" sound when you turn the key on before starting engine.

The lift pump on my G5200 became so weak that my engine was hard to start and would stall under load. On my tractor, the lift pump is mounted behind the right-rear wheel near the fuel tank.

When the fuel tank was FULL, it would start and run just fine... as the tank got near empty, the problems got worse.

Replacing the lift-pump cured all my starting and running problems.

 

[GreentoOrange]

Well dang. That’s a whole new set of questions, D2. Is that best done by removing the tank? Or?
But first things first, I gotta move the unit and i dont want to damage tranny.
How do i put in neutral so i can push it into a location where i have access??

 

[BruceP]

Your G1800 is a 'newer' version of my G5200. My tractor can be moved when the engine is not running. The HST only 'locks' the wheels when the engine is running. (This is why I ALWAYS set the brake when parked)

 

[GreentoOrange]

Does your G1800 have an electric 'lift pump' which moves fuel from the tank to the engine? The lift-pump makes a "clicking" sound when you turn the key on before starting engine.

The lift pump on my G5200 became so weak that my engine was hard to start and would stall under load. On my tractor, the lift pump is mounted behind the right-rear wheel near the fuel tank.

When the fuel tank was FULL, it would start and run just fine... as the tank got near empty, the problems got worse.

Replacing the lift-pump cured all my starting and running problems.

Bruce, I bet that was a bitch to diagnose! Thanks for insight on that, moving the unit, and that 5200 is the prelude.
Yeah, my unit clicks when i turn key. I thought it was the clock. So is the lift pump different from a fuel pump? Should i be replacing both?

 

[BruceP]

Bruce, I bet that was a bitch to diagnose! Thanks for insight on that, moving the unit, and that 5200 is the prelude.
Yeah, my unit clicks when i turn key. I thought it was the clock. So is the lift pump different from a fuel pump? Should i be replacing both?

Same thing... the "lift pump" is a "fuel pump" which lifts the fuel from the tank and pushes towards the engine. The pressure is very low (less than 10 PSI)

To test your pump, you should be able to pull the hose from the engine which comes from the lift-pump and stick the end in a container.... when you turn on the key, the fuel should be pumping out of the hose.

My tractor has TWO fuel filters. One BEFORE the lift pump and one on the engine. Beware - pulling the hoses off of the rear filter will allow the tank to drain so do not forget to "pinch off" the hose from the tank before pulling hoses from that filter to replace it.

 

[GreentoOrange]

Thanks Bruce

 

[BruceP]

This is what I used to replace my lift pump ==> https://www.ebay.com/p/10017019462

Also beware that ANY leaks in the 'suction' side of the lift pump can cause it to suck air and not pump fuel.

 

[D2Cat]

Bruce's Ebay pump is way more then what's needed on that engine. It's the "cadillac" of fuel pumps.

You need a low PSI (like 2-3#) with the correct size barbed ends. That's all that's required. If you don't want to spend the money on the Cadillac, look at something like this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Electr...870830?hash=item216c4c752e:g:USgAAOSwR-9d8ccz

 

[lugbolt]

Either there is junk in the tank restricting the fuel nipple/outlet or the lift pump has failed. Did fuel run out of the line when you replaced the primary (rear) filter? If so, the lift pump may be bad. It's under the tractor, kind of inside the left rear wheel well area; remove the wheel and look up in there and you'll see it. It's usually covered in grass clippings. It is not a cheap pump and most aftermarket pumps move way too much volume and make entirely too much pressure. I'd suggest to replace it with an OE pump if you have to replace it. On mine, I tapped the on pump while the key was on and it started working again and hasn't quit yet. Just some food for thought. But yes the filter outta fill up with the key turned on. I have bled the fuel system before on these by just turning the key on and walking off for a little while. Sometimes it works other times not.

Oh another thought. Remove the wheel to get access to the pump. Do not disconnect the fuel lift pump, however grab a multimeter and back probe the pump's harness connector. You're going to want to see within 1 volt of battery voltage (probably 10.5-11.8v). Any less than that and you have an issue. Wiring issues on these old G series mowers were pretty common even on new ones back in the day when they were new. Remember them well. There are several harness connections and they tend to get corroded, dirty, etc. Particularly the voltage regulator connector under the steering pedestal assembly; that one will get corroded/dirty and then gets hot & melts the connector and the wire itself causing all kinds of problems ranging from lack of charging to overcharging. Mine was charging about 30v DC into the battery at full throttle....because of the melted harness connector. Worth looking into.