Need tips for making implement removal easier

[terrib972]

Removed my Land Pride cutter from the tractor for the first time today. I got it done but it wasn't easy. I'm wondering if there are tips to lesson tension or otherwise ease the process. I'm a 62 yo woman so relying on brute strength doesn't work. Is it better to have the front of the cutter on the ground or blocked up level? Better to have the brake on the tractor set or allow for movement (provided ground is level).

I did loosen the turnbuckles but had to kick the arms pretty hard several times to get them off. Did finally figure out how to loosen that upper attachment so I could get the pin out. The hardest part was the drive line. Pushing that button and pulling at the same time was difficult. Even after the bolt had cleared the groove, it still didn't want to pull back. Pushing the tractor slightly forward just took the pto with it. Finally figured out that raising it made it release. What does a rookie need to know?? Manuals are useless with sentences like "remove the drive line" and "unhook the 3-point hitch and drive the tractor forward". Thanks for you help!

 

[i7win7]

Setting cutter on cement blocks helps, pto shaft can turn if nothing touching the blades. Cleaning pto shaft and using a spray lube before connecting shaft may make removal easier.
Quick hitch makes implement hookup and removal easier, less room for pto hookup.

Ideas to make implements QH compatible

Get the most benefit from your quick hitch. Buying new get QH compatible. Here is a photo of an implement whose manufacturer has their act together. Note how it's designed for cat 1 & 2. Also the lift arm spacing can be adjusted. Some "QH compatible" only need minor modification. This TSC...

www.orangetractortalks.com

More expensive option.

 

[85Hokie]

You hit a lot of good ideas ....

LEVEL ground is a must!!!!!

Have cutter on blocks - wood or otherwise.

Here something I did with my 8n - I left it in NEUTRAL ....and then I could push pull on the tire to move it an inch here or there.....

Backing up to the cutter is the hardest part too - getting everything "in line" - have the arms spread wide too.

As for PTO - take it and clean it well and oil/grease it well too. I just had a pto shaft the would NOT go on the splines.... it took a file and sandpaper to make them want to go and then once they did - a greased it well.

Also - where ever you park the cutter - have a "cheap" hammer near by - shoot a hammer is $5 for a cheap one and having that to use is priceless. You could leave it at the site or place it in a ziplock bag on the ground near by.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Simple answer, though costly,... pour a large concrete pad !!
Really, ALL 3pt implements are a PITA unless you have a BIG, flat,level pad. Something that BOTH tractor and implement can be on at the same time. OK, it might cost $1000 for the pad but you'll get the implements on/off faster AND safer ! Mashed fingers, busted toes can cost a LOT more in hospital bills.
Done right the pad will outlive your grankids, so it's an investment.
No amount of jury rigged blocks and boards ever works, at least not nicely AND you risk getting injured.
After having 'fun' with 3pt, I converted them all to Snap-Coupler. 30 seconds on or off ,even on dirt/gravel.
As for the PTO shaft, yes, clean it with a very,very thin oil, especially the pushbutton. ANY dust/dirt/gunk can turn into 'concrete' and make it a 'joy' to try to remove.

 

[Thunder chicken]

I pull all the pins for adjustments, turn the turnbuckles a bit to relieve any tension if needed (from being slightly unlevel) then it still may need a kick. Get a 4’ crow bar for a lever, maybe a big spud wrench, and a couple pound sledge hammer.
you could upgrade the PTO shaft to one that has a collar style release that should be easier to use than the button. Keep the shaft and splines clean, and a touch of grease (that will attract dirt) so it’s a never ending process of cleaning and lubing.
when I go to hook up, I lengthen the arms with the adjusters, pull the pins for the sway bars, lower the hitch a bit more than it needs to be as you can lift it a bit for the first pin, then crank the adjuster for the second. If it’s a bit too long (far back) shorten the adjuster. Mind you you probably don’t have the fancy adjustments.....
Practice makes prefect, the hammer and pry bar make it easier

 

[bcp]

Difficulty changing implements is an indication that you don't have enough tractors.

Bruce

 

[Roadworthy]

I had fits with my mower on my old tractor. My new one was even worse!! I cheated. I purchased Pat's Quick Hitch. Connecting the implement became a piece of cake. There is a down side. I had to get a longer drive shaft and a longer top link. It was definitely worth it to me. It still didn't help with the PTO obviously but at least there was no quick hitch frame in my way. As far as my PTO goes, when I disconnect the drive line I put a little grease on the splines inside the fitting then put a plastic grocery bag or two over the end of the shaft. I grease the splines on the tractor and reinstall the plastic cap.

 

[random]

In general, with 3-point implements, I've found that keeping them level helps. Sometimes blocking them differently on one side vs. the other. Sometimes I just push or pull it a bit with the tractor.

I've also learned a few tricks with manipulating the height just a bit, and/or adjusting the top link (which I usually remove last) can get things just that last bit loosened.

 

[terrib972]

Difficulty changing implements is an indication that you don't have enough tractors.

Bruce

That's funny. I use that philosophy with my cameras but... Thanks for the laugh. I needed that after working on pulling old posts. I'm getting there. I'm so thankful for forums and youtube!

 

[Creature Meadow]

I used blocks for my cutter for years then I switched to round wooden posts to sit it on.

Made a world of difference, I can easily move in when a tweak is needed.

I keep an old t post laying next to it that I can use for leverage if need be to move it side to side.

I have a bungee I use to hold up the PTO to keep it out of the dirt.

I have a cement pad that I store most implements on but even then I use the post to sit cutter on.

My plan is to build dollies to sit some of my implements on to allow for easy moving around when need be.

Best of luck.

Jay

 

[MINICUP28]

I second the Pat's Quick hitch. I'm too old to horse around the implements and they are not quick hitch compatible.

 

[dirtydeed]

quick hitch or telescoping stabilizers. problem solved.

 

[Russell King]

On the pto you can usually disconnect the plastic shield from the end of the shaft and move it back towards the implement and out of the way of your hands. Usually there are a couple of plastic screw heads that you turn about 90to 180 degrees and they line up in a hole, then you can move the bell shaped end back.

There are other styles so see what you have but getting it out of the way is almost like magic for getting it installed

 

[Bmyers]

A quick hitch makes a big difference if your attachment is QH compatible. If so, that makes it easier to hook and unhook.

I spray the pto shaft, the connector, and I keep everything sprayed with WD 40 Dry Lube. It makes it easier connecting the PTO and keeps things from rusting up.

My dad, 74 y/o, seen how much easier the QH made connecting implements, he went and bought one for his Massey.

 

[bucktail]

Make sure that the air pressure is the same in both back tires.

 

[JimmyJazz]

Removed my Land Pride cutter from the tractor for the first time today. I got it done but it wasn't easy. I'm wondering if there are tips to lesson tension or otherwise ease the process. I'm a 62 yo woman so relying on brute strength doesn't work. Is it better to have the front of the cutter on the ground or blocked up level? Better to have the brake on the tractor set or allow for movement (provided ground is level).

I did loosen the turnbuckles but had to kick the arms pretty hard several times to get them off. Did finally figure out how to loosen that upper attachment so I could get the pin out. The hardest part was the drive line. Pushing that button and pulling at the same time was difficult. Even after the bolt had cleared the groove, it still didn't want to pull back. Pushing the tractor slightly forward just took the pto with it. Finally figured out that raising it made it release. What does a rookie need to know?? Manuals are useless with sentences like "remove the drive line" and "unhook the 3-point hitch and drive the tractor forward". Thanks for you help!

Removed my Land Pride cutter from the tractor for the first time today. I got it done but it wasn't easy. I'm wondering if there are tips to lesson tension or otherwise ease the process. I'm a 62 yo woman so relying on brute strength doesn't work. Is it better to have the front of the cutter on the ground or blocked up level? Better to have the brake on the tractor set or allow for movement (provided ground is level).

I did loosen the turnbuckles but had to kick the arms pretty hard several times to get them off. Did finally figure out how to loosen that upper attachment so I could get the pin out. The hardest part was the drive line. Pushing that button and pulling at the same time was difficult. Even after the bolt had cleared the groove, it still didn't want to pull back. Pushing the tractor slightly forward just took the pto with it. Finally figured out that raising it made it release. What does a rookie need to know?? Manuals are useless with sentences like "remove the drive line" and "unhook the 3-point hitch and drive the tractor forward". Thanks for you help!

Consider the JIFFY HITCH. I have no personal experience with it nor do I know the cost. Gets great reviews. A simple and elegant design in my opinion. I met a grape farmer in Erie Pennsylvania that had seven tractors each with its own implement that he never changed. This enabled him avoid that which you are describing. Claimed it was the key to his success. There should be plenty of people skilled in the "country crafts" around to provide guidance. Good luck and don't become discouraged.

 

[NCL4701]

Lots of good advice.

If you don’t want to spend the money on a Pat’s or quick hitch, maybe do it a few more times and if you find yourself still struggling with it get a Pat’s or a quick hitch. If you know someone local who can give you a hands on lesson that might help, too.

Hookup for me is always: 1) non-adjustable lift arm; 2) adjustable lift arm (the one with the turnbuckle vertical adjustment); 3) top link; 4) raise the implement just barely off the ground and center it if needed; 5) set the sway pins/chains; 6) PTO if applicable.
A 3lb hammer is pretty handy for driving pins in and out.

My brother has a quick hitch and honestly, it’s pretty sweet. I haven’t had one the first 40 years of messing with them and I’m just too cheap to get one now. If I live long enough, maybe someday.

If you do get some sort of quick hitch setup just make sure you’re PTO shaft is still long enough. The quick hitch and Pat’s both move the implement back a couple of inches.

 

[JimmyJazz]

Lots of good advice.

If you don’t want to spend the money on a Pat’s or quick hitch, maybe do it a few more times and if you find yourself still struggling with it get a Pat’s or a quick hitch. If you know someone local who can give you a hands on lesson that might help, too.

Hookup for me is always: 1) non-adjustable lift arm; 2) adjustable lift arm (the one with the turnbuckle vertical adjustment); 3) top link; 4) raise the implement just barely off the ground and center it if needed; 5) set the sway pins/chains; 6) PTO if applicable.
A 3lb hammer is pretty handy for driving pins in and out.

My brother has a quick hitch and honestly, it’s pretty sweet. I haven’t had one the first 40 years of messing with them and I’m just too cheap to get one now. If I live long enough, maybe someday.

If you do get some sort of quick hitch setup just make sure you’re PTO shaft is still long enough. The quick hitch and Pat’s both move the implement back a couple of inches.

They make PTO shaft extensions. About $30.

 

[Dunbar]

Top and Tilt rear hydraulics with my quickhitch make it easy. I keep PTO connectors clean and hit them with a shot of spray right before attaching. Of course I have mostly new land plane 3pt attachments that are QH ready. If I had an assortment of different and older ones I'd probably go with Pats.

 

[terrib972]

Lots of good advice.

If you don’t want to spend the money on a Pat’s or quick hitch, maybe do it a few more times and if you find yourself still struggling with it get a Pat’s or a quick hitch. If you know someone local who can give you a hands on lesson that might help, too.

Hookup for me is always: 1) non-adjustable lift arm; 2) adjustable lift arm (the one with the turnbuckle vertical adjustment); 3) top link; 4) raise the implement just barely off the ground and center it if needed; 5) set the sway pins/chains; 6) PTO if applicable.
A 3lb hammer is pretty handy for driving pins in and out.

My brother has a quick hitch and honestly, it’s pretty sweet. I haven’t had one the first 40 years of messing with them and I’m just too cheap to get one now. If I live long enough, maybe someday.

If you do get some sort of quick hitch setup just make sure you’re PTO shaft is still long enough. The quick hitch and Pat’s both move the implement back a couple of inches.

Now see, I didn't even realize one of those lift arms was adjustable. Now I see that. thanks.