Looking for recommendations on a good source for tire chains for a BX23S with R4 tires.
Do any of you also put chains on the front tires?
Do any of you also put chains on the front tires?
Need chains for R4 industrial tires on a BX23S...
- Thread starter Mustard Tiger
- Start date
Check my Profile-About, I got them based on reading several (many) OTT threads and they work great! Even on ice there's no slipping.
Looked through your profile. Didnt' see any mention of chains.
EDIT: just ordered front and rear chains online.
Last edited:
OntheRidge
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L47 TLB, Homestead 55" grapple, LP 1684 rear blade, WR Long 84" snowplow
I got chains for both the back and front wheels on my BX23S. I used them once and haven't used them since. We get a lot of snow and have an uphill grade to our home. I have blown 1 and 1/2 feet of snow with no problems at all. Now watch, after saying that I will have problems this winter.
Yeah I'm caught slackin'
Try:
www.orangetractortalks.com
(continued in Post #47)
www.orangetractortalks.com
Try:
Snow chains…do I need them?
I would like to hear from people who are using the R14 tires as to their experience plowing or blowing snow with those tires.
www.orangetractortalks.com
(continued in Post #47)
Front Tire Chains BX2230?
Good afternoon from the snowy north. I am selling my BX2230 and part of the package is a complete set of chains. I recieved a note in my e-mail form someone claiming that front chains will cause excessive wear on the front clutches. Any truth to that? I ask because the chains came from the...
www.orangetractortalks.com
Blue2Orange
Active member
Equipment
BX2380 with LA344S & QH05. SB1051. SG0554. BB1248. RB0560, Vassar dirt bucket
BX2380 with R4 and 2" spacer user. Consider chains over studs for winter use. Assuming the BX23s is similar design. If so, check out the driver's right inside the fender towards the front clearance. Attaching an image posted on another tread regarding chains. Space between the top of the tire and the shield plate is only an inch. Clearance everywhere else is fine.
Received an email from Buck at tirechain.com. Enquiry about best options due to minimal space. He noted the square link chain are 1/2" tall. Standard twist links 2 ladder chain would provide the most clearance. Thinking sort of a moot point if the chain is too loose. Will require routine checking of tension and definitely use chain tensioners.
Looked at the front wheels yesterday. The steering arm "knuckle" clearance is minimal. Like way too close to upper edge of the rim. I can see the side hook/loops of a chain hitting it with minimal loss or maybe even tight tension. Might just sip and stud the front for improved turning control and some traction improvement.
Received an email from Buck at tirechain.com. Enquiry about best options due to minimal space. He noted the square link chain are 1/2" tall. Standard twist links 2 ladder chain would provide the most clearance. Thinking sort of a moot point if the chain is too loose. Will require routine checking of tension and definitely use chain tensioners.
Looked at the front wheels yesterday. The steering arm "knuckle" clearance is minimal. Like way too close to upper edge of the rim. I can see the side hook/loops of a chain hitting it with minimal loss or maybe even tight tension. Might just sip and stud the front for improved turning control and some traction improvement.
I keep the chains pulled to the outside and use three small rubber tensioners per side to keep them there.
Supposedly front chains aren't needed due to the weight of the implement, I might try going without this year on ice covered concrete and seeing how it goes.
One trick to "tight" chains is to deflate the tires, install chains, air back up ... Tight!
Blue2Orange
Active member
Equipment
BX2380 with LA344S & QH05. SB1051. SG0554. BB1248. RB0560, Vassar dirt bucket
If it even matters much. How many psi do you need to deflate the rears? I'm lazy. Don't own a compressor. Unless you count the hand held SnowJoe. I remember using the manual tire pump to top off the pressure on the old NH. Took way too many pumps to just move the gauge a pound or two PSI. The good are tiny rear tires on these SCUTs. Should require a few hundred less pumps.
I normally only run 10 psi in the back, and 20 in the front which I've upgraded to 8 ply ... Needs to be reduced to show a bulge in the tire near the bottom ... If you have filled tires, it won't take quite as much air ... I'd consider getting even one of those small plug into cig lighter compressors, very handy to have with you also in the road vehicle if you have a flat, and your spare is under inflated!
Blue2Orange
Active member
Equipment
BX2380 with LA344S & QH05. SB1051. SG0554. BB1248. RB0560, Vassar dirt bucket
I think I will need an impact wrench to loosen the spare. But then I don't think I have a long enough extension. 8 y/o Chevy 1500 WT trim. Spare has been sitting under the box since new. All the sand and salt exposure during the past 7 winters has probably caused more than a little corrosion. Do run a set of ice and snow winter tires mounted on their own rims. Probably should throw one of the "not all seasons" in the box during the winter. Would not be fun being stranded with a flat in winter. But I do have road side assistance on the vehicle insurance policy.
Work the lugs loose with penetrating oil and a breaker bar. Loosen a little, tighten a little, keep working it patiently and the threads will survive.
Or blast it with a big impact while wearing eye and ear protection, but I'd use the breaker bar.
Blue2Orange
Active member
Equipment
BX2380 with LA344S & QH05. SB1051. SG0554. BB1248. RB0560, Vassar dirt bucket
I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to trucks spare. Haven't even looked at it since purchasing the truck back in '17. It or my previous SUV or maybe both has a long extension that you stick into a receptacle and crank. Hopefully it was the old SUV only. Otherwise will be a real pita.
Haven't done my own oil and filter or summer to winter wheels/tires change for years. Only place left that takes used oil is my tractor dealership if you purchased the fluids from them. The last time I purchased some diesel oil for the NH at the local Tractor Supply store they refused to take any used oil. I guess a cost savings for them. Back to dealer oil only. Wheel change and oil/filter change time. Will have the dealership mechanic take a look and give me the bad news. Local GM dealership has so far for the past 25 years given me fair prices and quality service.
Haven't done my own oil and filter or summer to winter wheels/tires change for years. Only place left that takes used oil is my tractor dealership if you purchased the fluids from them. The last time I purchased some diesel oil for the NH at the local Tractor Supply store they refused to take any used oil. I guess a cost savings for them. Back to dealer oil only. Wheel change and oil/filter change time. Will have the dealership mechanic take a look and give me the bad news. Local GM dealership has so far for the past 25 years given me fair prices and quality service.
Blue2Orange
Active member
Equipment
BX2380 with LA344S & QH05. SB1051. SG0554. BB1248. RB0560, Vassar dirt bucket
Decades ago use to work in a bicycle shop. Parts department and when needed in the shop. One method the mechanics used to remove corrosion locked stem quills (pre-threadless stem era) was to gently heat the stem. Then hit the stem with a shot of CO2 to rapidly cool it. The cracking sound is "interesting". Usually last option after the penetrating oil and grunting failed or danger of shearing the stem bolt is probable. Which I managed to do. Once.
If it snaps you just put in a new stud, you stud.
I'm not sure if spare mounts have studs like wheel hubs do; I've replaced a few wheel hub studs: smash them with a sledge hammer until they pop out the back, then tap a new one in until it's "stuck" (and straight), put the rim on with the other studs holding it, and rattle-gun that f-er tight! (Then back off on the lug a bit and install the next stud that snapped off, because it seems they don't go it alone...)