Mystery Bolt/adjustment?

JRHill

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Orange: B7100 Std and Woodmizer; Green/yellow JD Buck, Gator and 410j.
Apr 26, 2016
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Wahkiacus, Washington
Bolt.jpg

'81 B7001 manual xmission:

Under the seat, right side top by where the 3pt pressure line comes in and the diverter accessory valve is located is this bolt painted yellow from the factory. It has a lock nut on it so it seems to be an adjuster for something. I'm guessing its a pressure adjustment for the the 3pt lift?

I'm still awaiting the copies of the owner and service manuals to come in, woohoo! After 30+ years, it was time. I'm asking now b/c after finally finding them they'll probably not say. (wink)
 

85Hokie

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That guy controls your rate of descend of 3 point - in slows in down, out makes it drop faster!

1655408934804.png
 
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JRHill

Member

Equipment
Orange: B7100 Std and Woodmizer; Green/yellow JD Buck, Gator and 410j.
Apr 26, 2016
60
11
8
Wahkiacus, Washington
OK. I don't even use the 3pt anymore. The BH is on there pretty much forever. But, I have wondered what anybody has ever used the Aux tap on the 3pt for something useful? I've always wondered about it for a log splitter but I bet the volume is too low.
 

Dieseldonato

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OK. I don't even use the 3pt anymore. The BH is on there pretty much forever. But, I have wondered what anybody has ever used the Aux tap on the 3pt for something useful? I've always wondered about it for a log splitter but I bet the volume is too low.
Going to be pretty slow for a splitter.
 

TheOldHokie

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OK. I don't even use the 3pt anymore. The BH is on there pretty much forever. But, I have wondered what anybody has ever used the Aux tap on the 3pt for something useful? I've always wondered about it for a log splitter but I bet the volume is too low.
Forget the 3pt tap. Volume aside if you have a backhoe on the machine you have a circuit that is easily tapped for auxiliary hydraulics.

You can and I have run a logsplitter on 4GPM. It is slow but faster than I can swing a sledge for any length of time. A splitter valve with regen on extend speeds things up significantly.

Dan
 

JRHill

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Equipment
Orange: B7100 Std and Woodmizer; Green/yellow JD Buck, Gator and 410j.
Apr 26, 2016
60
11
8
Wahkiacus, Washington
I've looked around and haven't seen any input about Mobile1 for the trans/hydraulic. I had a jug of 0w30 and another of 0w20, both Mobile1 with nowhere for it to go so I thought to try it since everything is cleaned up and the screen clean. Like I mentioned above, I'm not using the 3pt so I'm mainly thinking of the xmission where 2nd gear which howls (reverse too, a bit). We'll see if the Mobile1 quiets it down any.
 

TheOldHokie

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I've looked around and haven't seen any input about Mobile1 for the trans/hydraulic. I had a jug of 0w30 and another of 0w20, both Mobile1 with nowhere for it to go so I thought to try it since everything is cleaned up and the screen clean. Like I mentioned above, I'm not using the 3pt so I'm mainly thinking of the xmission where 2nd gear which howls (reverse too, a bit). We'll see if the Mobile1 quiets it down any.
There is a reason they formulate gear oil. Engine oil formulations are lousy automotive drive axle lubricants.

Dan
 

JRHill

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Equipment
Orange: B7100 Std and Woodmizer; Green/yellow JD Buck, Gator and 410j.
Apr 26, 2016
60
11
8
Wahkiacus, Washington
Yeah, but... When the duty is split between a geared transmission and hydraulics it is a thing. Of course it has to be thin enough for the hydraulics, esp weather related. OTOH, its not 85w-90gear oil.

Yeah, I've seen where Mobile had to take zink out of the formulation for its formulation for motor oil. Again, OTOH, I use Mobile1 in everything except for road rigs. Mostly engine oil but in other things too, where its not consumed while running.

I accept your point. But if one can exceed all of the data points for the lube performance how is that a problem?

I could drain the lube out in a heartbeat and use it elsewhere. I'm just wondering if anyone else has pondered the same?
 

TheOldHokie

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Yeah, but... When the duty is split between a geared transmission and hydraulics it is a thing. Of course it has to be thin enough for the hydraulics, esp weather related. OTOH, its not 85w-90gear oil.

Yeah, I've seen where Mobile had to take zink out of the formulation for its formulation for motor oil. Again, OTOH, I use Mobile1 in everything except for road rigs. Mostly engine oil but in other things too, where its not consumed while running.

I accept your point. But if one can exceed all of the data points for the lube performance how is that a problem?

I could drain the lube out in a heartbeat and use it elsewhere. I'm just wondering if anyone else has pondered the same?
The lubricant in a common sump tractor performs multiple roles:
  1. It is a hydraulic fluid
  2. It is a wet brake and clutch lubricant
  3. It is a transmission lubricant
  4. It is a differential and final drive lubricant
Tractor manufacturers have settled on a more or less standard formulation that is blended with additive packages tailored specifically for those functions. Its been around for almost 50 years and is called Universal Tractor Transmission Fluid (UTTO):
  1. It has a viscosity in the 10W30 range for cold weather hydraulic performance
  2. It contains foam inhibitors for hydraulic system protection
  3. It has friction modifiers for control of wet clutch and brake squawk/chatter
  4. It contains rust and oxidation inhibitors that cannot be used in engine oils.
  5. It contains elevated levels of phosphorous (the element, not zinc, that is actually limited in engine oils) for anti-wear performance
  6. It contains sulfur (also limited in engine oils) for GL-4 level extreme pressure wear protection of final drives and differentials.
In a common sump tractor it outperforms engine oil in all regards including price.

Dan
 
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JRHill

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Equipment
Orange: B7100 Std and Woodmizer; Green/yellow JD Buck, Gator and 410j.
Apr 26, 2016
60
11
8
Wahkiacus, Washington
In a common sump tractor it outperforms engine oil in all regards including price.

Dan
Been thinking about your comment - much appreciated. On the next trip to town and I was at the farm store I went through the lube isle and there were no pales of synthetic UTF, go figure. I was about resolved to just finish with petro UTF but my eyes caught an item on the shelf above where they had gallon and quarts of Amsoil Syn UTF so I bought a gallon to finish the lube change so all synthetic now. Anyway, the following week I had a long drive to a neighbor's place and back home up a serious grade with the synthetic (60% Mobile1 40% Amsoil UTF) in the gearbox. Between the needed change out of the lube and the change over to synthetic its was absolutely noticeable. The 'growling' in 2nd gear is about half and the in reverse it is mostly gone but of course that is always crawling speed. Anyway, an interesting experiment as I had some Mobile1 of a weight that I wasn't going to use anymore and this was a good test case. It'll be a long time before another fluid change because it never happens by hours but by condensation....

Another thing I've been pondering since thisexperiment: for years and years I have used Marvel oil for everything from cutting fluid to penetrant to fuel additive (sparingly). Plus it smells good :) I have seen where people insist that xmission fluid is a good penetrant/additive and got to thinking of just quitting the Marvel thing and using petro UTF for all the above.

Ironically, with this subject, when I changed out the xmission/hyd fluid in the big loader/BH/hyd it specified motor oil, not UTF. Caught me off guard as I had purchased 5 pails of UTF for the project so I had to go get different lube and now have plenty of petro UTF.... For the big machine and the toy machine I monitor closely. I don't pull samples for testing from the Toy (Kubota) but its a grudge thing that is curious: How long will this critter keep going and doing so well? It runs smooth but is obviously lacking some compression and keeps mosquitos away under load. The only thng lacking is the need to refresh wiring and I will do that when its not 100f in the shade.
 

JRHill

Member

Equipment
Orange: B7100 Std and Woodmizer; Green/yellow JD Buck, Gator and 410j.
Apr 26, 2016
60
11
8
Wahkiacus, Washington
Additional: many people say "screw the additives." I Kind 'of agree. If from me and if from the beginning when I owned it everything was spot on for maintenance with quality products, yup. But iff the unit was not damaged and after 40+ years can you extend the life?

Yup