My new L3301

[dukes909]

Delivered 2 weeks ago, just now getting around to posting here.

Purchased with a 72" finish mower and 42" tiller.

Used the tiller and old rough cut last week before the rains came and turned everything muddy.. I opted for the gear drive model.

Likes:
- Easy, easy, easy to run.
- Having a front loader.. already turned the compost heap many times with it! (It's a BIG compost heap).
- T4 = no smell from exhaust. You do not know it is a diesel. I know Tier 4 is a four letter word here with some people but I talked to mechanics before making the purchase and am not worried about it.
- Previous tractor was 1949 8N. I learned a lot about operating safety - still learning, but glad to have all the modern safety features.

Dislikes:
- Parking brake lock is to the left of brakes. Somehow I always seem to manage to unlock the parking lock when dismounting the tractor. I'm a bit of a clod so it will take more practice.
- The seat belt buckle lines up exactly with, and is too close to,the high/low gear selector. I have banged my knuckles so many times on the buckle. I wish it was offset just a few inches or so.
- I wish it were possible to mount & unmount the tractor from either side. Sometimes you just need to able to get on & off the right hand side. Maybe there is a reason for not having it this way.
- Maybe this is just unique to all modern tractors but I have a beast of a time connecting & disconnecting implements. There is no "give" in the lift arms. I want to get a concrete pad down under my pole shed to make it a little easier with a level surface.

I'll update as I use the tractor more this season. Love it already. I don't think I'll sell the 8N just yet but I do see it entering it's golden years with a well deserved retirement.

Questions for folks here:
- Do most people leave the front loader on at all times, even when not needing it for mowing or tilling etc? I'm a little timid to disconnect it and not be able to get it back on there but I hate to have it on there when mowing if it will get in the way..maybe it won't, I haven't used it for actual mowing yet (only bush-hogging).
- Do you use multiple links when having various implements? It is a chore turning that thing so many times!

Cheers
Dukester

 

[Bluegill]

Congrats!

Set you rear wheels out wider to make it more stable.

FEL off & on in 5 minutes. Easy. Mine is off most of the time.

 

[dukes909]

The tractor has to go back to the dealer to have the canopy installed. I may ask them about changing the rear tire stance when it is in there.

 

[TripleR]

I regularly remove/remount my loader, very simple process especially if it is done on flat concrete. Try not to leave the loader in the sun or you may need to relieve pressure buildup by cracking your connectors or depressing the ball with a dowel etc. : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=loMgylltsh8

Videos on implement attachment: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSatF4QoqmI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pH9Tmdtsgg

I began using a hydraulic top link quite some time ago and it helps with implements, on my last tractor I had Top and Tilt addedm hydraulic top and side link.

 

[dukes909]

Great video links - thank you!

 

[quazz]

Nice tractor!

 

[gpreuss]

The FEL is really easy to mount/dismount! I'm taking it off more and more as I get used to the tractor. Generally you feel more stable without it, and it can get in the way while mowing, tilling, or dragging things over the field. When making an uphill turn, a couple of hundred pounds up front helps, however.
Setting the rear wheels as wide as they go is a good plan. If you are on hills, you may want to go wider still with spacers. I generally run about 66" width; that feels comfortable on most of the slopes I have, and is the width of the loader bucket.
I like the looks of the 3301. I also like the synchro shift - wish I had it!
Have fun with that.

 

[dukes909]

Tried unhooking the loader today to mow?ried is key word! I didn't have the bucket tipped just right apparently as the bottom pin did not get raised up enough to clear the tires when backing away from the loader?ent back & forth several times to get it all lined up to connect..sure wasn't as easy as the Youtube videos!!! Ended up reconnecting and leaving it on to mow. Will try again another day. Maybe!

I can confirm this tractor does _not_ have a jerky 3 pt. hitch. Smooth as can be.

 

[gpreuss]

I'm glad it sounds like they corrected the jerky 3ph! Wish they would do a recall of the L3200/3800.
I generally curl the front bucket all the way up when I dismount the FEL. That gives plenty of clearance for the front tires. And be sure to put the plastic caps over and into the quick disconnects; keeping dirt out of hydraulics is a must.

 

[Ryansweatt2004]

How bad do the r1 ag tires impact the lawn when using the finish mower?

 

[dukes909]

Short answer: "It depends." It's going to depend on your soil type, recent rainfall, and to what degree the ground is already compacted. For our place, heavy clay, and non-compacted soil. The ag-tires tore the ground up greatly, but I don't attribute this to L3301 in and of itself; I am sure the same would happen with any similarly sized tractor. Switching from the ag's to R4's made a good bit of difference but they can still tear up the ground when turning.

 

[zippyslug31]

I have an 3901 with AGs. FWIW, in my sandy/dusty soil I leave a lot of tracks. A neighbor (same soil type) with R4s on his BX model doesn't leave nearly the same marks... but some of that can be attributed to his lighter tractor.

Not a great comparative data point, rather something to offer for consideration.

 

[Benhameen]

I wouldn't let your first attempt at removing the FEL deter you. Once you get the hang of it, its no problem. Mine stays off until I need it then right back off again. I didn't read all the other responses but once you have it away from the tractor but still have the hydraulic lines hooked up, while its turned off, move your joystick thru all of the motions, this will make it easier to hook back up. The ride of the tractor will be much better with it of, not to mention the reduced wear and tear of the front end.

Just my two cents of course...

 

[illiceman11]

Don,t give up on loader removal. It really make mowing nicer.
A quick hitch for 3 pt.is a must if you change your rear impl.very often.They are not to expensive.

 

[KennedyFarmer]

I have an L3901 the same loader, it isn't hard to remove. however like my neighbor told me once you remove the loader you always find something to do with it.

 

[Southern Yankee]

Dukester,

I too bought a L3301 HST in Dec 2014. I am a 75 year old city kid replanted to the country. I bought the machine as a package deal with a front loader, brush-hog, box blade, and trailer to do yard work on 20 acres that is only good to grow weeds, scrub brush, red cedar, and Jack/Scrub Oak. However, in the country, if it is green, it is “grass”. I have over 8 acres of “grass” but I never had any intention to cut grass with the tractor.

I am retired Air Force and it is the first time in 45 years I have lived away from an air base. It is so quiet out here in the country about 40 miles north-east of Oklahoma City (nr Wellston) and every morning and evening I get to hear the coyotes sing (although they are a terror on cats and small dogs). I bought the machine to cut brush and dig a farm tank/pond. My wife had no problems with it; she just said it was something else to auction off when I pass on.

The first week I had it, I was like a bull in the china shop with the front loader or brush-hog banging into the trees. I also quickly learned that the box blade is not a good counter weight for a full front loader. Also experienced pure terror when I encountered a stump on one side of a dirt pile and the tractor wanted to tip that way. With the scoop and box blade I moved dirt all over the place but I had major washouts when the Oklahoma drought broke. When I went to work them, I buried the tractor to its axles in mud. That happened just at dusk but I had it out by 10 p.m. by repeatedly jacking and blocking it until I could get the trailer ramps under the front wheels. The front wheel drive pulled it right out.

I only have 60 hours on it now (Nov. 16) but it has spent most of the spring and summer in the barn as they have been putting a pipeline thru my back yard that cut me off from my back 10 acres. My un-worked property is either dense woods or tall grass inter-mixed with sumac and brush. I also have a deep seasonal wash that I want to turn into a pond. In heavy brush, I put the scoop low to knock down the big sumac and chop up the grass and brush with the brush-hog (look out for short stumps and use your seat belt as they are a real jar.) Interestingly, I have found my new Bad Boy zero-turn will do just as well in that stuff mowing down grass, small sumac and brush. Most of the trees are junk red cedar and Jack Oak. Jack/Scrub Oak have branches that grow to the ground. On old growth, most of the lower branches are dead. The dang stuff is like barbed wire making it difficult to get against the tree trunk to cut off the branches with a chain saw. As we have copperheads, I do not relish sliding through tall grass to hug a tree so I can trim it. Therefore, I was happy when I found out I could snap off most of these dead branches using the front loader and later clean them up by cutting the stubs close to the bark with a chain saw. I have cleared several acres this way. However, the little L3301 does not have enough heft to bowl over larger red cedars. They have to be dug out.

I too am afraid to pull off the front loader. The loader blocks the headlights at night. Raise the loader too high and the tractor get bouncy. Get it too low and it digs in on broken ground (good reason to wear the seat belt again)

Attaching implements is also a pain. I have wide rear tires. If I don’t get it just right the lower arms rub the tires. They also rub the tires when they are hanging loose with no implements attached unless they are wired together. When I put the tractor in the shop for a 50 hour, I had them install a quick-change unit (about $500 with taxes). Now I just back up to the implement and the lower links latch on. I still have to attach the upper link but that is easy. Newer implements have a hook to attach the upper link. However, the PTO is still a pain because of the overkill PTO safety cover. With the metal cover over the PTO, I just don’t see a need for that large plastic cover that blocks access to the lock ring. Someone jump in here if I am wrong or if you have a better way.

I have had several problems with the tractor. It is too heavy to drive across a lawn as it sinks in and the knobby tires chew up the grass. I was working with about 25 hours or so on the tractor and it would stall every time I hit the gas. I got it back to the barn by blipping the gas and moving forward a foot or two at a time. In the barn, I found the seat front pivot pin had slipped out on one side. This moved the seat flange so it could not hit the safety switch arm. I doubt the cotter pin for the seat pin was installed at the factory. I also lost a front wheel lug nut which makes we wonder if it was ever tight. Finally, I popped a low engine speed “P” code. This is a common problem with L3301s and L3901s but the dealer reprogrammed that during the 50 hour under warranty. I have less than 5 hours on it to see if that fix really worked.

I have several questions. I am thinking of buying a 66” Land Pride tiller. Does anybody have any pros or cons about that? Granted we don’t get much snow in Oklahoma but when we do, it drifts. Has anyone every installed rollers (like lawn mower deck rollers) on the front loader to keep it from tearing up an asphalt driveway or digging in on a county dirt road. I would appreciate any input.

I love my Orange Tractor.

Richard
Southern Yankee

 

[jyoutz]

I never remove my loader. I just remove the bucket for mowing. There's not a big difference in clearance between a loaderless tractor, and just removing the bucket.

 

[jyoutz]

Richard - the best way to push snow without tearing up asphalt or gravel is to push or pull with the back side of a rear blade in the 3ph float position. Either push the snow in reverse or turn the blade around when going forward so the blade isn't cutting, just dragging or pushing snow. I've been doing this for many years.