My brand spanking new (to me) L4330 tractor, what bushhog do I want?

[FTG-05]

I've read a number of "what size bushhog for my tractor?" threads and think I understand the (5hp (PTO) per foot" rule of thumb.

But what I really want to know is what is the sweet spot for the L4330 specifically? On the scale of light duty to heavy duty, I want the heavier duty. I plan to go into the bushhog business as a sideline to being retired, so heavier duty is better.

I stopped by the local Kubota dealer and looked at some of their BH, but they were all new and reflected the newness cost-wise. I don't want new. They had the BH brand, as well as the Land Pride and Howe lines there. I couldn't tell the light duty from any other duty.

Edumucate me! What are the signs of a heavier duty bushhog and which one works great with the L4330?

Thanks,

 

[TripleR]

Really hard to say as there is no real demarcation line between, light, medium, heavy duty. A true commercial grade cutter is going to be pretty costly.

I tend to go by cutting capacity and thickness of deck as well as HP rating on the gear box.

 

[BAP]

The other thing to look for in a bush hog if you are going to use it a lot, is getting one with a slip clutch instead of shear bolt protection. The slip clutch is going to cost more, but changing broken shear bolts gets old after a while if you are using it a lot. A heavy duty bh will tend to have more rugged driveline components and thicker gauge steel in the deck. The thicker steel adds weight which needs to be taken into consideration when sizing to your tractor. Also the thicker steel holds up better to the pounding of flying brush debris. While you may not want to buy new, used ones can be pretty abused unless they were never used much. Have fun with your tractor and enjoy, "I mean work hard".

 

[Stubbyie]

Total weight of the unit will be a good indicator: heavier deck mostly, followed by heavier / larger gearbox.

Obtain from Howse (in Mississippi, per their website) their one-volume Owner's Manual for their entire line of rotary cutters. You can compare what they call light-medium-heavy-commercial duty cutters.

I've got a 6-ft that has a light deck that flexes when you stand on it and a 5-ft that has cross-bracing, reinforcements, and a higher-rated gearbox than the 6-ft.

The only valid comparison is within one brand, not between different brands.

Look for [thrown object deflector] chains, extremely heavy gearbox, disk-type stump-jumper, heavy steel deck, pins to fit your machine instead of using bushings on 3-point lift, driveline clutch or shear pin your choice.

Clutch will require occasional adjustment--and might not function correctly in a wet environment. I like shear pins and probably change two per year (use Grade-2 bolts and NyLock nuts and use a length such as to keep the threads out of the yoke). In either case, if cleaning up for pay, be damned sure you walk it out first to avoid tearing up your equipment. A simple $100 flat or worse a ruined tire (not to mention shredder clutch / shear pin) might cause you to rethink your rate structure.

In my area, contract bush-hoggers incur their own repair costs. Other posters here in the past have suggested having the landowner pick up costs of flats. No way locally. You might get paid for the work done but generally you'll be told to get out of the way 'cause there's another contractor coming to finish the job.

If you're buying used, find one you like and use it until it dies (with decent maintenance you might get a lot of life). Balance costs of new or used against your horsepower and time spent on the job: a used and hard-to-find 7-ft unit locally will run 3x that of a 6-ft---is that cost worth the 1-ft difference looping a field when you're just starting out in the business? Much more than 7-ft and you start getting into dual tail wheels and two gearboxes and REAL money.

If buying used, track down the CORRECT OEM blades for the first gyration. Buying used, you never know what somebody else stuck on there no matter what it looks like---I've seen mismatched, torch-whittled, bent, broken, split, backwards, upside-down, everything on used shredders.

Please post back and advise how you proceed so we may all learn.

 

[FTG-05]

Good stuff, keep it coming!

BTW, here's the best video I could find on what I have to do to clear about 12 acres of woods on my soon-to-be property: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5x-qGeJvbY

A lot of undergrowth, including numerous 2"-3" saplings in and amongst all the big trees that I want to keep.

The video above looks a lot like my lower 10 acres that was formerly bushhogged over the years, but has not been for at least two years (owner illness and age). I want to clear all that out as well.

Thanks!

 

[TripleR]

For stuff like in the video and a bit larger, we used a Land Pride RCR2672 pulled by an L5030 or 5740 and a Woods DS1260 pulled by an M8540, for bigger stuff we rented a tracked skid steer and just pushed it all down and piled it.

 

[TripleR]

When mowing tall stuff like that, don't turn anymore than you absolutely have to as it exposes your tie rod boots which are prone to rip, yes I found out the hard way. They are not a real big job to repair, but more than I want to do.

 

[FTG-05]

Went and looked at this Big Bee rotary cutter last night. $685 brand new. With it's 40 hp gearbox, I'm pretty sure this fits the definition of "light duty".

My .02.

 

[cerlawson]

Regardless of what you do, in that video we see what the rigidity of the three point does in uneven ground. At the top link add a connection with slop. In that case having a quick hitch, such as what Harbor Freight sells for about $100 is very handy. The connection then can be a slotted vertical section that rides on a bolt. I just added a short section of 1 x3 bar that is a flexible tension-only connection. Then, lower the cutter so the rear wheel can go down in dips. On humps, the top link then "collapses". When you want to lift the cutter, it takes a little more lift, but this avoids all the problems that blue tractor guy had with uneven cutting height.

If nothing else a short section of chain at top will do.

 

[Kingcreek]

Woods brand makes an honest heavy duty rotary cutter. My experience shopping cutters was that used usually means used up or else they want as much as new.
Good used bush hogs are like Bigfoot. People might swear they exist but nobody has actually seen one.

 

[FTG-05]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions, guys, please keep them coming!

I did this spreadsheet, let's see if I can get it to attach: Ok, it looks like it went.

There was simply no way for me to remember everything about every bushhog, so I listed all the makes, models and variables that I could find. Take a look and let me know what you thing.

I've pretty much given up on Howse: If they can't be bothered to set up a decent web site, then sure as heck, I'm not going to trust them to make a decent bushhog. Sucks, but that's life in the 2013's.

I'm leaning on a Woods unit and I'm also thinking of getting new, if I can get it around $2K or so.

Reminder: Tractor is a Kuboto L4330, 40 HP/36 HP at the PTO.

Please review and let me know what you think.

 

[mkreitler]

I've read a number of "what size bushhog for my tractor?" threads and think I understand the (5hp (PTO) per foot" rule of thumb.

But what I really want to know is what is the sweet spot for the L4330 specifically? On the scale of light duty to heavy duty, I want the heavier duty. I plan to go into the bushhog business as a sideline to being retired, so heavier duty is better.

I stopped by the local Kubota dealer and looked at some of their BH, but they were all new and reflected the newness cost-wise. I don't want new. They had the BH brand, as well as the Land Pride and Howe lines there. I couldn't tell the light duty from any other duty.

Edumucate me! What are the signs of a heavier duty bushhog and which one works great with the L4330?

Thanks,

If you are interested in a good LIKE NEW BUSH HOG BRAND MODEL 295 WITH FRONT AND REAR CHAINS 540 RPM that has only cut 10 acres of grass the only reason it is for sale is now I have a bigger tractor M7040 instead of my 3520 COMPACT JOHN DEERE tractor.With the larger tractor I need at LEAST 7ft.instead of the 5ft.as in the 295 is.If interested in a GOOD used one this is it. Marvin Kreitler You can reach me by phone 636-212-2939

 

[FTG-05]

From the spreadsheet above, I'm leaning towards the Woods BB720X at 1,200 lbs and aa 30-120 HP requirement.

Is there any reason my L4330 with it's 36 PTO HP could not run this bushhog efficiently?

Thanks,

 

[BotaDriver]

From the spreadsheet above, I'm leaning towards the Woods BB720X at 1,200 lbs and aa 30-120 HP requirement.

Is there any reason my L4330 with it's 36 PTO HP could not run this bushhog efficiently?

Thanks,

Should be able to turn it, I'd be more worried about the weight. I have a 3800 with an RCR1860 weighing in at 600lbs, and you certainly know it's back there. Lifting capacity of a 3pt starts to go down hill pretty quick as the weight you add goes further back.

Before you write the check on that one, it might be prudent to take your machine to the dealer that has it and see how it lifts it. You will more than likely need front weights or have to leave the loader on if equipped. It's a lot easier hoggin with the FEL OFF. The ride is better, and you're able to get into tighter spots.

I'd go with a LandPride cutter though. I hit a 2" steel rod, 2' in length with mine the first time I used it. It made one hell of a bang....neighbors came out wondering what happened, and they're almost a 1/4 mile away! Nothing need replacing, though the rod and blade both have missing steel. The blade is also a little bent up....and there is a nice dent on the side of the cutter, in a reinforced area at that. However, I did get a good 160 acres or better worth of mowing done before replacing the blades with sharp ones. My cutter is one of their Medium duty units able to handle 2" saplings. The rod was not visible, but was ripped out of the ground by the blade and slammed into the side of the cutter.

That thing has taken one hell of a beating and still runs as smooth as you'd want it.