Mx6000 vs 7060

[HogfarmMT]

Hi all- after hours of YouTube videos, and my best efforts to search forums I’m still undecided and would love some opinions.

I’m in a very flat area of Montana with very rocky soil- 1” to 6” I’ve pulled out in the first 18” of ground until it turns to fine silt.

I have 20 acres, and primary uses will be:

- purchasing a box blade to break down manure as 18 acres will be mixed pasture with multiple species.
- grade and maintain 1/2 driveway that’s long overdue for some work as washed out and washboarded.
- use a front mount post hole digger
- make swales for water collection
- loader work- moving dirt, snow and off loading pallets of feed and round bales.
-managing snow drifts that can be 6 feet tall to keep hogs from walking out ( so tired of hand shoveling) and moving snow to build breaks.
- pulling drill seeder for food plots.

future uses: hold to expand to additional 40 acres. No hay work or mowing but building and maintaining pastures.

biggest features for me is lift capacity, running a hefty box blade that can take the punishment of big rocks and the ability to dig my own post holes. Going to do the loader mounted post hole digger as in the lot at the dealer were some returned 3 pts as in my area without the down pressure people tend to have less than stellar results without doing sketchy things.

Two differences in quotes my dealer gave is on the mx6000 I’m running the box blade bb20 and post hole digger sa 20

and on the 7060 the box blade is the bb35 and post hole digger is the SA 35.

the lift capacity for both is doable for my needs. I’m fine running a manual transmission with the 7060 although do appreciate the hst on the 6000x is more beginner friendly.

Biggest thing for me is i want to buy once, not ungrade later. I’m leaning toward the 7060 just for the fact that it runs a heavier duty box blade and more robust post hole digger. I don’t have a tractor currently so hard to say how many hours it would see a week, but think 10-15 hours a week would be a fair estimate if I was doing what I could with one.

anything I’m over looking? If the 7060 in my case of not doing any hay work overkill?



thanks for all opinions!

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Welcome.

Flat. Rocks.

Go Big.

You might consider a Skid Steer. Kubota SSV65 or 75. Your front hydo's will be massive compared to a conventional tractor.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you want it for snow / winter work you really should look at a cab.
The MX6000 is a good unit for general all around utility work tractor.
The M7060 is more of an AG tractor, it will do better at ag work.
Using a box blade to work manure is rather odd, a disk or a harrow will do a much better job at breaking it up and incorporating it into the soil.

 

[Amarillo]

I have the MX6000 and love it but you should consider the 7060 for added lift capacity. The cab is really a nice feature with A/C, heat, stereo and not much dust/pollen. I added side mirrors, air seat, 3 point quick attach, wheel weights and had Rim Guard put in the tires. I don't need to add much to the 3 point when doing loader work with the weights and Rim Guard. I wish I would have had rear remotes added when I ordered it. I'm having them added this spring. A 3rd function on the loader (for grapple) will probably be added in the future too. Those are all things for you to consider.

 

[mcfarmall]

7060

 

[NCL4701]

Most folks here use a chain drag with spikes of some sort to bust up manure in their pastures. Pics are just an example for clarification.

 

[HogfarmMT]

Welcome.

Flat. Rocks.

Go Big.

You might consider a Skid Steer. Kubota SSV65 or 75. Your front hydo's will be massive compared to a conventional tractor.

Thank you. Good point, should have mentioned I did quote out a 75

Welcome.

Flat. Rocks.

Go Big.

You might consider a Skid Steer. Kubota SSV65 or 75. Your front hydo's will be massive compared to a conventional tractor.

thanks! I did look quote up a 75 and the price with implements just made it a bit beyond my budget. Other than that I’m thinking running it during winter I’m less likely to get stuck with the tractor since it will all be used outside

 

[HogfarmMT]

Most folks here use a chain drag with spikes of some sort to bust up manure in their pastures. Pics are just an example for clarification.

I’ve pulled a 6 ft chain with 3 tires on the back with my utv the past two years and it just doesn’t really get in there. I admit saying using box blade is kinda odd. lol

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Good day.

If set on a tractor (instead of a loader), then I think your loader work may tilt the scales…for the pallets of feed and round bales that’s some weight to be moving up / down and around IMO.

How much do the pallets of feed weigh? (Approx 2k lbs?). Do you need to move totes of water also? Personally I think if moving pallets of feed and round bales, then go for the M and get some safe working margin.

If I needed my MX to regularly handle pallets of feed or bales or water containers, I’d be thinking real hard about an M. I think either are great machines…but I’d go with the heavier machine. The M is not overkill if you need the weight of the machine and lift capacity IMO.

I think the M also would offer some ‘buy once’ margin as you add acres and chores.

(Regarding the auger I’d make sure topsoil depth and what beneath it…solid rock under the shallow soil?)

happy shopping.

 

[HogfarmMT]

Good day.

If set on a tractor (instead of a loader), then I think your loader work may tilt the scales…for the pallets of feed and round bales that’s some weight to be moving up / down and around IMO.

How much do the pallets of feed weigh? (Approx 2k lbs?). Do you need to move totes of water also? Personally I think if moving pallets of feed and round bales, then go for the M and get some safe working margin.

If I needed my MX to regularly handle pallets of feed or bales or water containers, I’d be thinking real hard about an M. I think either are great machines…but I’d go with the heavier machine. The M is not overkill if you need the weight of the machine and lift capacity IMO.

I think the M also would offer some ‘buy once’ margin as you add acres and chores.

(Regarding the auger I’d make sure topsoil depth and what beneath it…solid rock under the shallow soil?)

happy shopping.

Feed when they load it right is 2k on a pallet. Been unloading with buckets to 35 rubbermaids so this is one chore that would be so much handier. Not hauling water yet but could be super handy. It will be used a lot for moving feed.

did look hard at skid steer but running hogs in the field they are hell of tillers and make mounds figured being able to relevel would be more pull than push.

at my place my water table is about 230 ft below. I’ve put in all fencing by hand so far so this is one feature I’m most hung up on. Holes take about 30 minutes even if pre soak overnight. I actually dig holes now with a jack hammer and rock breaker bit.

I can make both of the lift capacity work, but I think the reason I’m leaning M is the extra weight, and the stronger auger my dealer specd for it. Dealer couldn’t give me any clear difference other than the auger on the mx6000 is more mid-duty va heavy duty for 7060. I do know I can rent them but I’m digging holes pretty frequently about 6 months a year.

 

[mcmxi]

Hi all- after hours of YouTube videos, and my best efforts to search forums I’m still undecided and would love some opinions.

I’m in a very flat area of Montana with very rocky soil- 1” to 6” I’ve pulled out in the first 18” of ground until it turns to fine silt.

I have 20 acres, and primary uses will be:

- purchasing a box blade to break down manure as 18 acres will be mixed pasture with multiple species.
- grade and maintain 1/2 driveway that’s long overdue for some work as washed out and washboarded.
- use a front mount post hole digger
- make swales for water collection
- loader work- moving dirt, snow and off loading pallets of feed and round bales.
-managing snow drifts that can be 6 feet tall to keep hogs from walking out ( so tired of hand shoveling) and moving snow to build breaks.
- pulling drill seeder for food plots.

future uses: hold to expand to additional 40 acres. No hay work or mowing but building and maintaining pastures.

biggest features for me is lift capacity, running a hefty box blade that can take the punishment of big rocks and the ability to dig my own post holes. Going to do the loader mounted post hole digger as in the lot at the dealer were some returned 3 pts as in my area without the down pressure people tend to have less than stellar results without doing sketchy things.

Two differences in quotes my dealer gave is on the mx6000 I’m running the box blade bb20 and post hole digger sa 20

and on the 7060 the box blade is the bb35 and post hole digger is the SA 35.

the lift capacity for both is doable for my needs. I’m fine running a manual transmission with the 7060 although do appreciate the hst on the 6000x is more beginner friendly.

Biggest thing for me is i want to buy once, not ungrade later. I’m leaning toward the 7060 just for the fact that it runs a heavier duty box blade and more robust post hole digger. I don’t have a tractor currently so hard to say how many hours it would see a week, but think 10-15 hours a week would be a fair estimate if I was doing what I could with one.

anything I’m over looking? If the 7060 in my case of not doing any hay work overkill?



thanks for all opinions!

I'm in Montana on 20 acres too but not in a flat area. Also, I have an MX6000 and M6060 which has more in common with the M7060 than differences.

If picking one I would absolutely pick the M7060 over the MX6000. The M is way more tractor, way more capable, and frankly better value for money. The M sips fuel compared to the MX which is a thirsty bugger.

If you get an M7060 there's way less chance that you'll ever need to upgrade. I changed the front wheels/tires on my 6060 to get better flotation.

 

[Jchonline]

7060. I have a L6060 on my Mountain property/home and we have a M7060 on our 150 acre 4th gen cattle farm in TX. If you are doing field work, you want the 7060 with the 12 speed (if you want accurate crop seeding speeds).

Front mount post hole digger - hydraulic flow out the front isnt great on these machines...just make sure it is matched well. Without enough flow or with too large of a bit it wont spin fast enough or with enough power.

Box blade good for grading. LPGS is better for getting it even, and if used with scarifiers it really is the easiest tool for road maintenance. Box blade is more versatile at other things also.

For swales you can probalby use the box blade, but will need to angle it from the 3PT for the cut. Should be doable. I use a rear hydraulic angle blade...much better for that.

For snow drifts you will probably want a rear snow blower. Get at least 74 in wide and tall enough for the machine you purchase. I have drifts all the time up here and you really do want to displace the snow, not plow it. I find plowing it just makes a higher wall for the snow to settle back into (perpetuating the drift). I throw it 50 ft downwind with the blower, and its gone forever. Moving snow you might want a light material bucket or a front blow blade. The ultimate setup is rear blower and front hydraulic angle plow....but I get by with my bucket on front.


The M7060 is a geared machine with an auto shifter for F and R on the steering wheel. It takes some getting used to if you have previously used all hydrostatic machines...but it is just fine for loader work. Not as fast as HST, but it gets the job done. If you didnt have field work I would recommend the MX as HST is better for loader stuff.

 

[SDT]

Hi all- after hours of YouTube videos, and my best efforts to search forums I’m still undecided and would love some opinions.

I’m in a very flat area of Montana with very rocky soil- 1” to 6” I’ve pulled out in the first 18” of ground until it turns to fine silt.

I have 20 acres, and primary uses will be:

- purchasing a box blade to break down manure as 18 acres will be mixed pasture with multiple species.
- grade and maintain 1/2 driveway that’s long overdue for some work as washed out and washboarded.
- use a front mount post hole digger
- make swales for water collection
- loader work- moving dirt, snow and off loading pallets of feed and round bales.
-managing snow drifts that can be 6 feet tall to keep hogs from walking out ( so tired of hand shoveling) and moving snow to build breaks.
- pulling drill seeder for food plots.

future uses: hold to expand to additional 40 acres. No hay work or mowing but building and maintaining pastures.

biggest features for me is lift capacity, running a hefty box blade that can take the punishment of big rocks and the ability to dig my own post holes. Going to do the loader mounted post hole digger as in the lot at the dealer were some returned 3 pts as in my area without the down pressure people tend to have less than stellar results without doing sketchy things.

Two differences in quotes my dealer gave is on the mx6000 I’m running the box blade bb20 and post hole digger sa 20

and on the 7060 the box blade is the bb35 and post hole digger is the SA 35.

the lift capacity for both is doable for my needs. I’m fine running a manual transmission with the 7060 although do appreciate the hst on the 6000x is more beginner friendly.

Biggest thing for me is i want to buy once, not ungrade later. I’m leaning toward the 7060 just for the fact that it runs a heavier duty box blade and more robust post hole digger. I don’t have a tractor currently so hard to say how many hours it would see a week, but think 10-15 hours a week would be a fair estimate if I was doing what I could with one.

anything I’m over looking? If the 7060 in my case of not doing any hay work overkill?



thanks for all opinions!

These two tractors are not designed for the same market segment and are comparable in few areas only.

Based upon your current and future intended purposes, I strongly recommend the 7060 or larger.

 

[hedgerow]

I like my MX6000 but its not the only tractor on this farm. Sounds like for what your going to be doing you better get the 7060 and since your only going to have one tractor I would sure get a cab on it. My non cabbed MX6000 is a garage queen in the winter. When it comes to making fence post holes I sure can't beat my 100 skid loader with high flow and a hyd post hole digger.

 

[GeoHorn]

Hopes and Dreams, Engines, Boat Anchors, Bilge Pumps, Titties, Pistols, Dogs, Bank Accts, Tractors,…. Bigger is Better.

 

[Hkb82]

Love my m7060. I can’t really speak for the farming side of things but as far as loader work I have zero issues with the 12 speed. Lifting capacity plus a cab is what I’d be paying for if you’re looking to buy once cry once. Hydraulic flow/gpm given your plans for post hole digging.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

If you want it for snow / winter work you really should look at a cab.

^^^^^ This

Definitely go cab in Montana.

The difference is:

A really bad day getting sick and maybe frostbite, getting little work done. Cussing and swearing guaranteed.

Or a very quick and painless day in a heated cab getting a lot done, in your short sleeve shirt, while talking on the phone with your best friends, or listening to Bach or whatever, and sipping a Hot Toddy. Cussing and swearing optional.

 

[GrizBota]

X10 on 7060 and pasture drag/harrow for manure. Unless you need a cab, then sort that out first.

 

[mcmxi]

@HogfarmMT, many here are suggesting cabs and I thought that was a given, but just in case ... GET A CAB!! I've had two tractors without cabs including and MX6000, and if you like dust, bugs, smoke, wind, rain, heat and cold then an open station is the way to go. A cab is so much easier to live with day in and day out under a wide variety of conditions.

As good as the MX is for many of us, one of the issues you run into with a small cab is where to put stuff, specifically the HVAC ducting. The M7060/6060 doesn't run ducting between the headliner and the roof of the cab but the MX does, and in my experience the M6060/M7060 runs much cooler in the cab on really hot days.

One industrious member removed the roof of his tractor and installed a sticky-backed insulation on the underside which is something I'm interested in doing on the MX. The MX struggles to keep the cab cool on a really hot day if you're working the tractor hard. With the sun beating down on the orange cap, there's a lot of heat getting trasferred to the HVAC ducting above the headliner.

Yep, get the M7060, M4 or even an M5 if the budget allows.

 

[HogfarmMT]

Blown away by how many replies I’ve gotten. Thank you! Gonna do the 7060, with cab. lol thanks again.