MX5100 Rotary Cutter sizing question

[SDT]

Rubber guard in the front, no chains or guard in the rear. I won't be running the BH with anyone else on property, and a very healthy amount of woods between my tractor and the next closest person, so will probably keep the rear guard off for a few seasons.

I didn't get to run it before...It was a risk, but the price was right enough to take the gamble, I go into all used equipment assuming it will need maintenance / repairs and try to purchase at a price point where it still cost less than what others are selling their used equipment at (i.e. buy the $1000 bush hog vs the $2000 assuming both will need $800 in blades, pins, seals, maybe a stump jumper).

I prefer to buy used equipment where the seller doesn't claim to have fixed a lot of issues, I have looked at more equipment being sold with fresh paint and bad repairs than I care to think about. (my favorites are when they take the pictures immediately after spray bombing the equipment, with all the overspray on the grass)

The seller was really nice and felt honest, there is some deck dents, but nothing serious, she claimed it was used to mow pastures, and I am inclined to believe it had a gentle life compared to what I am gonig to put it through. Everything else at this price point was either in need of structural repair, had BAD structural repair, or was a no-name brand light duty unit.

I much prefer rubber belting on the front. Belting is much more effective keeping debris from the back of the tractor than is chain shielding.

BTDT.

 

[JasonW]

I much prefer rubber belting on the front. Belting is much more effective keeping debris from the back of the tractor than is chain shielding.

BTDT.

I have the opposite experience. The belting would fold the grass over and it didn’t spring back up in time for the blades to cut. I guess it depends on the type of grasses.

 

[McMXi]

I have the opposite experience. The belting would fold the grass over and it didn’t spring back up in time for the blades to cut. I guess it depends on the type of grasses.

Me too. Chains front and rear works for me and I would never have a cutter with rubber belting. Got them on the 7ft rotary cutter (RCR1884) and all around on the 12ft folding cutter (RC3712).

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I took a trip yesterday and snapped up a BH286. Rated 40HP minimum, 6' cut, and 942lbs I think this is just about the best medium duty cutter I could find for my MX5100. It gives me a little extra HP to play with, just under the max lift capacity, and a brand that is easy to find parts for.

I found this on marketplace 30 mins. after it was posted, I got a heck of a deal....the local dealer had a BH216 with chains on his lot and has it marked at $4,400! I am into this for less than 25% of that number.

Excellent choice. We run one behind the Ford, which is 47 hp I think. It'll cut anything you should be cutting with your MX. Ours has a couple of small dents in the deck from someone running over logs or stumps, but it's held up well. It also mows pasture well.

 

[SDT]

I have the opposite experience. The belting would fold the grass over and it didn’t spring back up in time for the blades to cut. I guess it depends on the type of grasses.

I cut much closer than most. Skid rails less than 1" above concrete surface and blades lawn mower sharp. Grass need not spring back in order to be cut.

All of my rough cut rotary mowers were used as HD finish mowers.

Most had front chains when new but were quickly retrofitted with front belting as experience has taught me that belting is much more effective keeping debris from the rear of the tractor.

I was once a fan of chains (F & R) but experience has taught me differently, at least for my purposes.