MX5100 Oversized Radiator
- Thread starter greglwood
- Start date
No.
Back in the old days you could cut the tanks off and re-core the old with a more fins per inch. But with new bonded tanks, no such luck!
Pat
Back in the old days you could cut the tanks off and re-core the old with a more fins per inch. But with new bonded tanks, no such luck!
Pat
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I would really like to know why also, curiosity mostly.
You could have an aluminum radiator made by one of the many racing radiator shops. As simple and small as most Kubota radiators are probably priced in same range as new from Kubota. Jeff
You could have an aluminum radiator made by one of the many racing radiator shops. As simple and small as most Kubota radiators are probably priced in same range as new from Kubota. Jeff
Find a GOOD radiator shop, take 'em your radiator and tell 'em you want one that cools a lot better. What you'll likely get is something along the same size, but you'll probably have to re-work the mounting points, perhaps maybe re-engineer the mounts themselves. The new radiator itself will likely have more fins per inch, which will cool better, BUT, it'll also clog with dirt faster-which is not good for a tractor application.
You may get better cooling, but it'll come at a hit to your pocketbook. A custom radiator such as what you're looking for could end up being $1000-$1500.
Getting a bigger one in there is going to be tough, the hood is in the way on 3 sides. So the only option is going to more fins per inch which restricts airflow, and as mentioned, also plugs with chaff and dirt a lot quicker.
You may get better cooling, but it'll come at a hit to your pocketbook. A custom radiator such as what you're looking for could end up being $1000-$1500.
Getting a bigger one in there is going to be tough, the hood is in the way on 3 sides. So the only option is going to more fins per inch which restricts airflow, and as mentioned, also plugs with chaff and dirt a lot quicker.
Might be worth your time, before spending time and money on a new radiator, to be absolutely sure your current radiator is clean.
If you're really considering replacing your radiator you're going to have to remove it. Why not remove it and clean it from the inside out? Get some simple green or purple power and spray it good and let it soak for a couple of hours then rinse it of with a garden hose sprayer. You'll be surprised of the amount of dust, dirt that will be in there.
Might be a good idea to take to the radiator shop and have them clean the inside while it's out.
If you're really considering replacing your radiator you're going to have to remove it. Why not remove it and clean it from the inside out? Get some simple green or purple power and spray it good and let it soak for a couple of hours then rinse it of with a garden hose sprayer. You'll be surprised of the amount of dust, dirt that will be in there.
Might be a good idea to take to the radiator shop and have them clean the inside while it's out.
You don't need a bigger radiator. My MX-5100 only starts to get warm if the radiator is dirty. If I keep it clean it never even gets close to hot. I live in east Texas, so 100+ degree days are pretty much the norm.
Engine heat soak possibly. A lot of times caused by reduced flow.
Besides the cleanliness inside and out of the radiator, and the screen, a couple of other things to check.
Easy ones -
Radiator outlet hose, make sure it isn't collapsing at full revs when at operating temp.
Fan blades and the belts, many times belts will slip but not squeal over the top of the engine noise, especially at higher revs, as the revs go up the load on the belts increase and they can start slipping.
Check fan ensuring all blades are still there, shroud in place etc.
Radiator cap, get it pressure tested, if it's releasing early, your fluid is boiling at a lower temperature where normally it wouldn't boil. A faulty cap can cause this, as well as a small leak (particularly at the top of your system), it's essential the system is pressure tight to the recommended pressure. So check all ancillary return hoses, oil cooler hoses etc.
Your reserve tank must have fluid in it at all times hot or cold, well above the return tube, also check that tube hasn't fallen off.
Harder ones -
Thermostat, make sure it is opening 100% at the correct setting, a glass kettle or jug is ideal to suspend it in and slowly heat and maintain opening temp (with digital temp gauge/probe) and make sure it opens fully at the correct temperature.
The water pump itself, ensure it hasn't a degraded impeller.
Good luck, hope a cap or hose fixes it!
Besides the cleanliness inside and out of the radiator, and the screen, a couple of other things to check.
Easy ones -
Radiator outlet hose, make sure it isn't collapsing at full revs when at operating temp.
Fan blades and the belts, many times belts will slip but not squeal over the top of the engine noise, especially at higher revs, as the revs go up the load on the belts increase and they can start slipping.
Check fan ensuring all blades are still there, shroud in place etc.
Radiator cap, get it pressure tested, if it's releasing early, your fluid is boiling at a lower temperature where normally it wouldn't boil. A faulty cap can cause this, as well as a small leak (particularly at the top of your system), it's essential the system is pressure tight to the recommended pressure. So check all ancillary return hoses, oil cooler hoses etc.
Your reserve tank must have fluid in it at all times hot or cold, well above the return tube, also check that tube hasn't fallen off.
Harder ones -
Thermostat, make sure it is opening 100% at the correct setting, a glass kettle or jug is ideal to suspend it in and slowly heat and maintain opening temp (with digital temp gauge/probe) and make sure it opens fully at the correct temperature.
The water pump itself, ensure it hasn't a degraded impeller.
Good luck, hope a cap or hose fixes it!