Currently have one set (2) of factory installed rear remotes. Looking at getting a hyd. top link. Does the remote control have a "float" position. My controls just shows arrows one way or the other. Have never used the remotes prior.
MX 5100 float position on rear remotes
- Thread starter SRRGC1
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
It may have float on one (or both) valves. You just push it past the point where it moves the cylinder. You will feel it move into a detent position if it has float.
I will add that the three common types of rear remote valves are standard double acting valves, self cancelling detent valves and float detent valves. If the OP has an SCD valve on the tractor it will lock out in both directions with a detent and return to center when the pressure in the valve reaches some maximum. If the there's a detent (lock out) in one direction only i.e. pushing the lever away from you it's most likely an FD valve. If there's no detent at either end of lever travel it's most likely a standard DA valve.
I have a bit of a hodge podge of valves in my tractors, in part due to what's possible, and what came standard with the tractor, and what I selected based on my needs. At least one FD valve per tractor is essential, and more useful than an SCD valve. I would say that if the choice is between a DA or FD I'd pick the FD every time since it can work just like a DA but offers the option of float as well.
MX6000
1st position - standard double acting valve
2nd position - double acting valve with float detent (FD)
3rd position - standard double acting valve
M6060
1st position - double acting valve with self cancelling detent (SCD)
2nd position - double acting valve with float detent (FD)
3rd position - double acting valve with float detent (FD)
Thank you, will investigate. Don't have the hyd. top link yet. Not sure which one is the best. I am told to be sure to get one with check valve.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
If you get the “check valve” then float will be useless (I think). Unless the check valve is separate and can be removed from the system.
I am assuming that you are referring to the check valve type shown here
summit-hydraulics.com
I am assuming that you are referring to the check valve type shown here
Double Pilot Operated Hydraulic Check Valve, #8 SAE Ports, 20 GPM
Double Pilot Operated Hydraulic Check Valve, #8 SAE Ports, 20 GPM
summit-hydraulics.com
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
You cant float a top link that has piloted check valves so if thats your only use you would be wasting money on a remote valve with float.
Dan
I have top-n-tilt on both tractors without check valves and frankly have never seen the need for them. The OP appears to be asking what kind of rear remote valve he has rather than what should he buy. That's my interpretation at least.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
He asked about the valve and followed with this.
"Don't have the hyd. top link yet. Not sure which one is the best. I am told to be sure to get one with check valve."
If he buys a top link with checks it does not mstter what type of valve he has. Hence my comment.
Dan
OK ... I see your point. I was stuck on what he currently has and not what he might have.
Assuming that you are talking about your MX5100? Not your other tractors?
Look at the following link. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html
The asked-for dimension should be close ( plus or minus ) to what the top link is when halfway extended.
I have found that a working length of 23 1/4"- 35 1/4" works well with the MX series tractors.
As far as having a check valve, depends on if you are lucky enough to have a decent rear control valve-s. Many people, are not lucky like MxMXi seems to have been with his and not need the check valves.
But also it depends on how you use the implement on the tractor. If you set up an implement and have no intention of changing or adjusting its position then perhaps check valves are important to you. If that's how you use an implement why even bother with hydraulic top and side links?
Whether I'm running the flail, box blade, rear blade, grading scraper, or even the snow blower for that matter, I'm always adjusting the implement to get it to do what I need it to do.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
It has nothing to do with changing or adjusting the implement position. Pilot operated check valves stop the cylinder from drifting. Without them implements dont hold the position you set.
Dan
Seriously? You don't think I know that? If you're constantly adjusting an implement while moving dirt or gravel, whether or not the implement drifts over an hour is meaningless. That was my point.
TheOldHokie
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Sure sounded like it:
But also it depends on how you use the implement on the tractor. If you set up an implement and have no intention of changing or adjusting its position then perhaps check valves are important to you. If that's how you use an implement why even bother with hydraulic top and side links?
Well, that's not the case. I'm well aware of why some want check valves and how they work.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
While this is true, but when you are doing other tasks that require a constant held adjustment, then it is beneficial to have that option without having to either disconnect the coupler or switching back to the manual link.
I have customers that have leak down issues that are extreme, like 3" of rod extension in less than 50 yards of distance. This is with a mower in this instance and the right side of his mower is in the dirt in a short time. He would have to be constantly adjust his mower for hours which is not practical or having to set the angle on his box blade every time after backing up.
Now this particular customer decided to go with a check valve on his top link and an electric open close valve on his side link because he wanted to be able to use the float feature when grading and not have to get off-on the tractor for a manual on-off valve.
I guess what I'm getting at is that it all depends on the circumstances one has to work with.
I was wondering if there was a way to turn on/off the check valve feature so that a cylinder could be used in float. That's the best of all worlds.While this is true, but when you are doing other tasks that require a constant held adjustment, then it is beneficial to have that option without having to either disconnect the coupler or switching back to the manual link.
I have customers that have leak down issues that are extreme, like 3" of rod extension in less than 50 yards of distance. This is with a mower in this instance and the right side of his mower is in the dirt in a short time. He would have to be constantly adjust his mower for hours which is not practical or having to set the angle on his box blade every time after backing up.
Now this particular customer decided to go with a check valve on his top link and an electric open close valve on his side link because he wanted to be able to use the float feature when grading and not have to get off-on the tractor for a manual on-off valve.
I guess what I'm getting at is that it all depends on the circumstances one has to work with.
That was my point that I don't have an issue with cylinders "drifting" while I'm using implements. I see very little in the way of leak down with either tractor over a day, let alone a few hours where I'm adjusting the implement. Like I said, I know the why and the how and a manual on/off check valve could be in my future, but it's just not a priority for me.
Russell King
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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You can mount the check valve remotely to the cylinder and use it when you need or want to. You would need a couple of extra hoses.
Yes it can be done in that fashion, but to do it clean and neat and have enough room are all different conditions for different machines. My typical answer would be that "I do not recommend it"
So far, the best solution to meet both needs that I have come up with is to have an electric open-close valve. You have the electric valve control on the manual valve control lever, probably with a control grip switch. That makes it very convenient to operate the on-off valve along with the actual manual valve for said rear remote valve.
I think to have an electric vs manual on-off valve depends on how bad the valve leaks. But the cost difference is substantial.