Moving yards and yards of material, a hay wagon?

Donystoy

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No, I meant make the unloader on a trailer bed. Trailer is towed by the tractor, hydraulic hoses from the unloader motor to the tractor so it can be unloaded from the cab.
That would be great! Like the live bottom gravel haulers.
 

hedgerow

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Jan 2, 2015
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I've got yards and yards of stuff to move around the farm, which is about 2000' from south to north, so every trip takes some time.

I'm thinking about getting a small hay wagon like the picture below (1 or 2 ton capacity). My thought is it ought to be fairly easy to unload by using the FEL to back scrape (I know how to do that safely).

I'm also looking for used running gear for a hay wagon.

But I'm open to other low budget approaches for moving stuff around. If I was rich I'd get a dump trailer, but alas... View attachment 142177
I would go to craigslist or facebook market place and look for old farm barge wagons. In my area you can pickup a 7X14 or 8X14 wagon with hoist and sides for a grand or less. There are many of them with steel sides and floors that would work perfect for what your wanting to do.
 
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icehorse

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If you wanted to get creative, you could make a DIY version of the pickup bed unloader except that instead of a manual crank, use a hydraulic motor and gear reduction box that runs off the tractor's circuit. You'd line the floor of the trailer with a plastic or sheet metal first for a smooth surface.

View attachment 142253
Okay, some progress! I used some running gear I had and built a small two-wheel trailer, the bed is 4' x 6.5', the running gear can handle 1500 pounds. Not a lot but much more than what I can currently do. And I got the unloader like you suggested.

After one trial run it's clear that I need a smooth surface, as you suggested. Any thoughts about a smooth, durable, inexpensive surface? MAybe sheet metal?

Another issue came up: When unloading, once half the material is off the trailer, the trailer tips backwards, and of course there's nothing in the PTO to apply downward force. So I think I need something at the back of the trailer like a rear wheel or skid. I'd like to keep this rear-end whatever simple, but also I don't want it catching the ground as I drive around the farm.

A great, but too complicated, solution would be like a retractable wheel or skid, but that seems complex?
 
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RCW

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Okay, some progress! I used some running gear I had and built a small two-wheel trailer, the bed is 4' x 6.5', the running gear can handle 1500 pounds. Not a lot but much more than what I can currently do. And I got the unloader like you suggested.

After one trial run it's clear that I need a smooth surface, as you suggested. Any thoughts about a smooth, durable, inexpensive surface? MAybe sheet metal?

Another issue came up: When unloading, once half the material is off the trailer, the trailer tips backwards, and of course there's nothing in the PTO to apply downward force. So I think I need something at the back of the trailer like a rear wheel or skid. I'd like to keep this rear-end whatever simple, but also I don't want it catching the ground as I drive around the farm.

A great, but too complicated, solution would be like a retractable wheel or skid, but that seems complex?
We need to see some pictures!!!!!😉
 

NCL4701

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Don’t know what kind of hitch you’re using but if it’s something such as a clevis or pintle that won’t pop off if at too much of an angle (like a ball hitch can), maybe consider when unloading raise the 3 point full up. Not exactly a self unloading dump trailer but load comes out easier and there’s no uncontrolled raise half way through unloading. Used to do that routinely with our old 4x8 single axle off road trailer.
 
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Dustball

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After one trial run it's clear that I need a smooth surface, as you suggested. Any thoughts about a smooth, durable, inexpensive surface? MAybe sheet metal?
Center section of a used plastic full size 8 foot truck bed liner?
 

icehorse

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Don’t know what kind of hitch you’re using but if it’s something such as a clevis or pintle that won’t pop off if at too much of an angle (like a ball hitch can), maybe consider when unloading raise the 3 point full up. Not exactly a self unloading dump trailer but load comes out easier and there’s no uncontrolled raise half way through unloading. Used to do that routinely with our old 4x8 single axle off road trailer.
A good idea, but a few issues I'd have to work thru:

- the handle used to unroll the sheet is already very close to the ground at its low point, so I'd have to shorten the handle.
- I've got rear hydraulics and I don't want the 3-point to go too high and jam up the hoses.

I never really use the drawbar, but one thought I had was to run a chain from the end of the drawbar to the top of the 3-point hitch to keep the 3-point from going up too high? Not sure if that would be safe for the tractor?
 

icehorse

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Center section of a used plastic full size 8 foot truck bed liner?
Most bed liners are gritty by design. I think it's mostly with dump truck liners that they're smooth.
 

NCL4701

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A good idea, but a few issues I'd have to work thru:

- the handle used to unroll the sheet is already very close to the ground at its low point, so I'd have to shorten the handle.
- I've got rear hydraulics and I don't want the 3-point to go too high and jam up the hoses.

I never really use the drawbar, but one thought I had was to run a chain from the end of the drawbar to the top of the 3-point hitch to keep the 3-point from going up too high? Not sure if that would be safe for the tractor?
Holding the 3 point down with a chain from the drawbar to the top of the trailer mover or whatever implement the hitch is on would hold it down. Been done by more than a few folks. Of course you could use the drawbar to hitch to the trailer since that’s what it’s there for.

So far as raising the hitch too high and jamming up the hoses for the top/tilt, not saying that couldn’t happen; you know your tractor better than anyone else. I have top/tilt on mine and would be pretty disappointed with it if I couldn’t run the 3 point through full range of motion without binding the hydraulic hoses.
 
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icehorse

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Holding the 3 point down with a chain from the drawbar to the top of the trailer mover or whatever implement the hitch is on would hold it down. Been done by more than a few folks. Of course you could use the drawbar to hitch to the trailer since that’s what it’s there for.

So far as raising the hitch too high and jamming up the hoses for the top/tilt, not saying that couldn’t happen; you know your tractor better than anyone else. I have top/tilt on mine and would be pretty disappointed with it if I couldn’t run the 3 point through full range of motion without binding the hydraulic hoses.
It would be great if I could use the drawbar directly, but the trailer is like a simple implement and I need to adjust the height of the 3-point hitch every time I attach the trailer.

Yeah, I wish the hoses weren't jam-up-able but they are. I guess I have less room than you do (4701 envy ;) )
 
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eipo

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I have 2 of smaller running gears. A 260 and 248. I found the 260 on marketplace for a steal and bought the 248 new.

I wouldn't be without either one. The 248 is a perfect utility wagon around the yard and can easily be pulled using the Polaris 570 and the 260 for larger tasks like loading wood chips with the tractor and taking to various locations. Both are also used for moving firewood.

I used to use a 5x10 trailer, but sometimes I like to leave things loaded and being able to simply unhook the tongue rather than having to jack up the front of the trailer.

I used to have a dump trailer.... For my needs I got tired of loading and then dumping whatever only to have to move what I dumped to either spread it out or put it back into a pile.
 

icehorse

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I have 2 of smaller running gears. A 260 and 248. I found the 260 on marketplace for a steal and bought the 248 new.

I wouldn't be without either one. The 248 is a perfect utility wagon around the yard and can easily be pulled using the Polaris 570 and the 260 for larger tasks like loading wood chips with the tractor and taking to various locations. Both are also used for moving firewood.

I used to use a 5x10 trailer, but sometimes I like to leave things loaded and being able to simply unhook the tongue rather than having to jack up the front of the trailer.

I used to have a dump trailer.... For my needs I got tired of loading and then dumping whatever only to have to move what I dumped to either spread it out or put it back into a pile.
Can you provide more information for "260" and "248"? Is there a make or model? Is it a 4-wheel wagon?
 

eipo

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Can you provide more information for "260" and "248"? Is there a make or model? Is it a 4-wheel wagon?
They are EZ trail wagons. The 248 is a 2 ton, 48" wide gear and the 260 is a 2 ton, 60" wide gear. Similar to the one in your first post.

 

eipo

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Heres the 260 when I found it.

 

icehorse

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Heres the 260 when I found it.

Well that's exactly what I want, just don't have the money for a new one. I live in Washington state, and I haven't had much luck looking for wagons on the internet.
 

GreensvilleJay

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Used to buy these at Princess Auto for $249, nomal is $299.
Had 3 then sold property ,no room for them, gave them away and of course NOW I NEED one (mobil pickup box wagon....)
yes, Made in China, maybe TSC or HF in USA sells them ? You can pull several in a 'train' !!

Wagons(4 wheels) are better than trailers(2 wheels ) . Obviously far more stable AND easy to connect/disconnect.
 

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NorthwoodsLife

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I will say it again... M101A2...

I've pulled mine across the states and it is ROBUST. Tough. Military grade. Pulls very well. I got mine with the stake sides and cover for about $500. But today there are not so many available on Gov Auction like I got mine. So, you are looking at about double that now. But it beats the snot out of any commercial trailer available today. It is a beast. And it will dump.

Put your krank a dealio bed roll on it. Or just use it hard and beat it. It will ask for more. The original paint is nuke certified by the US Gov.. if that means anything.

It is our perfect farm trailer. Bar none...

Be well

Find one. Get one.



My only regret is not buying 5 of these trailers when I got mine years ago. They had something like 30 or 60 of them for sale at the time.
 
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icehorse

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I will say it again... M101A2...

I've pulled mine across the states and it is ROBUST. Tough. Military grade. Pulls very well. I got mine with the stake sides and cover for about $500. But today there are not so many available on Gov Auction like I got mine. So, you are looking at about double that now. But it beats the snot out of any commercial trailer available today. It is a beast. And it will dump.

Put your krank a dealio bed roll on it. Or just use it hard and beat it. It will ask for more. The original paint is nuke certified by the US Gov.. if that means anything.

It is our perfect farm trailer. Bar none...

Be well

Find one. Get one.



My only regret is not buying 5 of these trailers when I got mine years ago. They had something like 30 or 60 of them for sale at the time.
Clever approach to dumping. Not ideal, but not bad.
 

icehorse

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Used to buy these at Princess Auto for $249, nomal is $299.
Had 3 then sold property ,no room for them, gave them away and of course NOW I NEED one (mobil pickup box wagon....)
yes, Made in China, maybe TSC or HF in USA sells them ? You can pull several in a 'train' !!

Wagons(4 wheels) are better than trailers(2 wheels ) . Obviously far more stable AND easy to connect/disconnect.
I think I saw these before I learned about the roller-device for unloading. At this point, I've got a little more to do with my current project. If it unloads well, I might just move the whole bed assembly to one of these "field tuffs".

I'll report on my progress...