Where did you pick power up for the Lights? i just got my New 2670, went to add Lights and don't find the little wire on the Back to Hook into.
Mods #3&4 Forward LED light bar and Alley Lights
- Thread starter Wildfire
- Start date
Wildfire
Active member
Equipment
Kubota L5740 HSTC3 and a Kubota ZG222Z, 2013 BX25D,Custom Toyota fork lift.
Not sure which lights your asking about but my answer will be the same for the way I did mine. I installed an auxiliary fuse panel and ran a wire from the battery to a relay that was switched via the ign switch. Every light I installed has its own fuse, it's own relay and its own switch.
Here's a few photos of the project.
You are correct, Wildfire.
It amazes me the number of folks who do not comprehend basic wiring or electric circuitry in general.
And I don't care if it is an electric fan with a 90 amp draw at start-up or an LED with a total draw of 1.5 amps, it should have it's own circuit with relay and fuse and switch.
It amazes me the number of folks who do not comprehend basic wiring or electric circuitry in general.
And I don't care if it is an electric fan with a 90 amp draw at start-up or an LED with a total draw of 1.5 amps, it should have it's own circuit with relay and fuse and switch.
I think if that were the rules a typical automobile would have a fuse panel that would take up the whole trunk.You are correct, Wildfire.
It amazes me the number of folks who do not comprehend basic wiring or electric circuitry in general.
And I don't care if it is an electric fan with a 90 amp draw at start-up or an LED with a total draw of 1.5 amps, it should have it's own circuit with relay and fuse and switch.
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ck21084
New member
Equipment
L3200-DT, LP 1672,B7100 enrossi 5ft finish mower, 7ft backblade, 20"subsoiler
I think modern cars do. I know my car (2000 3 series) has at least 20 relays and over 75 fuses. It takes up the entire glove box when the compartment is opened to work on it.
You car or truck or tractor.........every existing circuit is an individual circuit.
The problem is is that each circuit can barely carry it's own weight.
When adding cooling fans or driving lamps or work lamps or other accessories you must run your own circuits suitable to carry the current required. Most folks tap existing circuits and cause their own problems.
Note: All my grounds go to a single ground which is wired via a 4g cable directly to the battery. Grounding at the frame is a no-no.
BTW, two of those circuits is a wire harness upgrade to the headlights giving me about 30% greater available light. The other circuits are for driving lights, off road lights, radiator fan, and back-up lights and eventually to a plug at the new rear bumper (when I get it built) for winch on my trailer.
The problem is is that each circuit can barely carry it's own weight.
When adding cooling fans or driving lamps or work lamps or other accessories you must run your own circuits suitable to carry the current required. Most folks tap existing circuits and cause their own problems.
Note: All my grounds go to a single ground which is wired via a 4g cable directly to the battery. Grounding at the frame is a no-no.
BTW, two of those circuits is a wire harness upgrade to the headlights giving me about 30% greater available light. The other circuits are for driving lights, off road lights, radiator fan, and back-up lights and eventually to a plug at the new rear bumper (when I get it built) for winch on my trailer.
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Stated that way I would tend to agree, I'm just not in agreement that small amp circuits require a relay( more connections to corrode & another part to fail).
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Wildfire
Active member
Equipment
Kubota L5740 HSTC3 and a Kubota ZG222Z, 2013 BX25D,Custom Toyota fork lift.
I do it the way stated because its the safest way, if I want to add something else to the circuit I can and it will be safe for the components. I've never had any issues with my method. Yes it might be over kill for led lighting but its still the safest solution in IMHO for the machine.
This thread got me started thinking about my immediate and future wiring needs on my B2620.
I'm going to add a 6 place marine "switched" fuse holder and mount it externally under the dash for easy access.
I'm going to feed it with 10 ga on a 40 amp breaker then thru a relay to the panel.
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...+Systems+Fuse+Block+Ato+6+Circuit+with+Ground
I'm going to add a 6 place marine "switched" fuse holder and mount it externally under the dash for easy access.
I'm going to feed it with 10 ga on a 40 amp breaker then thru a relay to the panel.
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...+Systems+Fuse+Block+Ato+6+Circuit+with+Ground
Do you think those 30 amp curcuits are pretty close to maxing out that 14 ga wire?You are correct, Wildfire.
It amazes me the number of folks who do not comprehend basic wiring or electric circuitry in general.
And I don't care if it is an electric fan with a 90 amp draw at start-up or an LED with a total draw of 1.5 amps, it should have it's own circuit with relay and fuse and switch.
I was asking to use that wire to Signal my relay. I Wired mine So when then Light are On, there is Power to my Lights, As My Light have Switches on them.
I know I am a new guy, but I dig custom electrical installs. I used this one on my Rhino to install lights, additional gauge sets, winch controller and stereo. It has been under the hood since mid 2007, I recently sold the Rhino, but it was still working just as it did when I first installed it.
Hopefully no one minds me piggy backing off of Wildfire's thread. I just recently put aux wiring on my Bx2360 to support extra lighting. I mounted a 4x4x6 Carlon box between one of my grab handles and the seat to hold all of the wiring and serve as a mount for the switches.
I was going to mount everything in the dash area, but I wasn't confident in my wiring abilities and wanted to have easy access to everything. Anyways the box holds fusing, relays and switches for three separate circuits (headlights, rear lights, a 12volt plug, and an aux circuit for later use).
Right now I have everything run off the factory aux wires coming from the back of the tractor but would rather put this on its own direct wire to the battery/ignition. Any advice about how to do this would be greatly appreciated.
I was going to mount everything in the dash area, but I wasn't confident in my wiring abilities and wanted to have easy access to everything. Anyways the box holds fusing, relays and switches for three separate circuits (headlights, rear lights, a 12volt plug, and an aux circuit for later use).
Right now I have everything run off the factory aux wires coming from the back of the tractor but would rather put this on its own direct wire to the battery/ignition. Any advice about how to do this would be greatly appreciated.