Modifying My Trailer ???

[clawsx]

Hello all.

Due to the sorry, scum of the earth bastards that stole my L3800 a few months ago, it has become necessary to transport my new L3800 to my property each time I want to work/play. When loading the tractor/loader/cutter onto my 20' lowboy, it really lifts the back of my truck up. Should I install jacks on the rear corners of the trailer to lessen the stress on my coupler? I would really like some oppinions.

Thanks in advance.
Robert

 

[bcbull378]

Just one mans opinion but you coud attach a trailer Jack on both rear corners of your trailer and if nothing else make you feel better about loading. My son in law loaned his truck to his brother and was loading his trailer and the coupler broke that was bad but then the trailer came in contact with the tail gate of the truck and caused more damage.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Even square tubes in pockets, pull pin, drop tube replace pin. Crank jacks take too long. I made a set where the pins are spring loaded, for a custom built bear trap. Worked slick- never lost a pin after that.

 

[lreops]

I always carry a pair of Jack Stands in the trailer's tool box, or just laying in the bed. Quick and easy.

Ron

 

[BAP]

I use some pieces of 6"x6" blocking under the back corners of mine.

 

[dwk121]

I always carry a pair of Jack Stands in the trailer's tool box, or just laying in the bed. Quick and easy.

Ron

I do the same as you. Jack stands are handy.

 

[avi8tor]

I used a pair of jack stands until I got stung by wasps that had nests under the edge of my trailer. I welded trailer jacks on the rear corners. They have both pins and screw jacks. Works well for me.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Good dovetail or low boy trailers have blocking so when you drop the ramps they have stands under the ramp that hits the ground before they lift the truck.
If you have pull out ramps then jack stands or jack legs are the best option.
One other option that is a very safe option, replace the hitch from a standard ball hitch to a pintle hitch, and a good pintle hitch will also double as a ball hitch for smaller trailer hitch.
This style hitch is 10,000 to 60,000 lbs!

Truck side:

Trailer side:

 

[85Hokie]

I use some pieces of 6"x6" blocking under the back corners of mine.

Same idea I use, took tow pieces of 2x12 about 14" each. Measured the height under the trailer near the corner, subtracted about an inch ( level ground) and then screwed the one piece on it's face to the end grain of the other, looks like a large T that the top is long and wide. Place the flat face on the ground and the end grain up - as the trailer squats it pushes the T into the ground and helps take the load of the trailer and ball. I place a piece of rope across the top, make good chocks too. I throw them in the trailer and they work perfectly - only problem is when the ground is NOT level.

 

[MagKarl]

Absolutely add jacks. They make loading/unloading so much less exciting. I have a set like these on my trailer. All you need to do is weld on the pipe stubs that the jacks attach to. Pull the pin and rotate 90 degrees when traveling.
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jack/Pro-Series/PS1401420303.html

 

[clawsx]

Wow! All excellent ideas. I love this site. Thank You All.

 

[bearskinner]

always keep some heavy wood blocks with the trailer. you can block the rear when loading, to solve trailer lift. they work great if you need to unhook the trailer on hilly terrain, to keep it in place. If you get a flat, you can loosen the lugs, pull the good tire up on blocks and replace the bad one ( with a double axle) without having to jack it up. I have a bottle jack in the tool box, and use the blocks. their quicker and easier and cheaper.

 

[bcp]

You need some kind of support in the back.

 

[Iowan]

The jacks reduce the stress on the trailer frame and help keep weight on the rear tires of the tow vehicle ( park brake should be set for loading and unloading ). I've always used the 4WD to load the tractor to clime on the trailer, other wise you push on the trailer until the drive tires hit the ramps.

 

[RIDETOEAT]

Adding crank down jacks will serve you best in this case as you can crank them down sung and run less risk of pushing the truck or being hard on the hitch, then raise them and ready to go.

For me and my personal experience as a 6x6 block guy all too often is that i am forever using blocks and then the loaded trailer traps them and I have to drive off my blocks to retrieve them, I hate doing this as it looks like I am retarded instead of properly prepared, but I got in a pinch about 4 months ago with a new trailer and had to do it again.

I hate to admit that I have developed a technique for optimizing a lack of preparedness but I have learned to only hook a 6x6x12" ish block about 2" under the tail of the trailer so it kicks out easier if it gets trapped. I am getting ready to trade trailers for the bigger tractor and I will be adding jacks.