MMM Front linkage hookup

[Rob 80]

I bought a new B2650 with a 60" mower deck model RCK60-30BA, The other day when i was mowing i noticed that the front middle anti scalp wheel was not turning because the dealer has the mmm front linkage hooked up wrong. That bar across the top of the wheel stops it from spinning freely.

In the manuel it says to hook it up this way.

Doing it that way lets the anti scalp wheel spin freely BUT it will also lift all the front mmm wheels off the ground when you have the hydraulics all the way down. The rear mmm wheels are still on the ground.

The front linkage can not be adjusted any longer like the manuel says to do so i'm puzzled as to why it's like this. The front linkage is 19.9 inches pin to clevis like it should be.

Any ideas? I can hook it back up like the dealer did but the front wheel will not spin so it tears up the grass somewhat.

Thanks!

 

[85Hokie]

I got three mower decks, all difference series .......NONE of them have that extension on them!

I would say the second way is the correct way, but why the extension? The way is "locks" into the groves make me think that is how it is designed.

the anti scalp wheel is designed to not ride on the ground, but rather hit when a small hill is run over. Yes - it should spin freely too!

You do have a few threads left on the adjustment if you choose to do so. ( part 220)

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After looking at an older model of your deck, the dealer has it correct!!!!!

[/IMG]

Does your MMM have four outrigger pivot wheels? Several models work differently - some require the outer wheels to hit all the time, some float! THIS front wheel is not designed to be on the ground because you have two that are touching already.

Can you take another picture and show the amount of bind that scalp wheel is in? Also - as the two front outer wheel make contact on the ground, (deck lowered) there will be very little pressure on that connecting spot - that bar should be almost resting in the two grooves, only when the deck is raised is pressure applied to the pin.
Hope that makes sense..........if your outer wheels are not touching the ground when you cut - there is where the problem is coming from.

 

[Rob 80]

It has 2 pivot wheels on the front of the mmm. Here's a picture of how the dealer had it hooked up notice the bar above the center wheel

side view and hydraulics all the way down. The only wheels that touch the ground are the two front pivot wheels and the rear center wheel. This is how i mow with it.

center wheel linkage is not hooked up

center bar wear from the center wheel trying to spin from how the dealer had it hooked up.

what the manual says. Hooking it up this way will raise the front of the mmm a few inches of the ground even with the hydraulics all the way down. The linkage is not long enough to be hooked up this way.

side view with linkage hooked up

front

Hooked up the way the manual says to do it.

 

[85Hokie]

Excellent pictures!

What if - you lower the rear wheels so they too hit the ground, those should "stabilize" the deck on "level" ground. I wonder if it will ease the pivot point on the front end to allow 1/32".

Front what I can "demise" - the front link forces the front end to lift,ONLY when the rear 3 point pulls it backwards if you understand what I mean. SO - if the deck is lowered, that point should be under zero tension, even moving forward and not touching the scalp wheel.

try to raise the rear deck by lowering the rear wheels so they hit earlier - do this on a hard surface to see if makes any difference at all!

 

[Rob 80]

Excellent pictures!

What if - you lower the rear wheels so they too hit the ground, those should "stabilize" the deck on "level" ground. I wonder if it will ease the pivot point on the front end to allow 1/32".

Front what I can "demise" - the front link forces the front end to lift,ONLY when the rear 3 point pulls it backwards if you understand what I mean. SO - if the deck is lowered, that point should be under zero tension, even moving forward and not touching the scalp wheel.

try to raise the rear deck by lowering the rear wheels so they hit earlier - do this on a hard surface to see if makes any difference at all!

So lower the two wheels on the rear of the deck that are not touching the ground at all like in the picture? I guess that would help but what about the linkage hook up is it possible the manual is wrong?

Even if it is wrong that don't explain why the wheel hits that bar.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Grandad4]

The wheel should spin freely when it's hooked up properly. Is it possible it's the wrong size caster? It doesn't look like it, but even one 1/8" smaller would not bind up like that. What does the dealer say?

Also, that's a floating, or suspended, deck according to the literature, meaning the casters aren't supposed to be carrying the full weight of the deck as it mows. The wheels are there to lift the deck up over high spots.

 

[85Hokie]

The wheel should spin freely when it's hooked up properly. Is it possible it's the wrong size caster? It doesn't look like it, but even one 1/8" smaller would not bind up like that. What does the dealer say?

Also, that's a floating, or suspended, deck according to the literature, meaning the casters aren't supposed to be carrying the full weight of the deck as it mows. The wheels are there to lift the deck up over high spots.

There are many decks out there that float and or suspend. My BX "floats" - but my two B7100 - both are designed to have 4 outrigger wheels hitting the ground, that is - if'n the ground is flat

this deck is designed to have the two FRONT outrigged wheels to ride on the ground at all times, the front wheel in the middle ONLY comes into play when a small knoll is passed over.

I too am somewhat stumped, either there is a tight setup that keeps that wheel a whisker away from that bar or something is wrong in the setup.

I do not think the book is wrong, the scalp wheel cooould be wrong one, but I think the rear setup needs to be tweeked.

Now there is a double rear wheel sitting in the middle rear ? YES? those should be lowered first, then those on the outside can be set as scalp wheels too. The ones on the outside are not gonna hit ground all the time.

On my B series cutters - there is a rather large double wheel right in the middle of the rear deck, has a real easy moving lever that can raise and lower the large set of wheels. The rear of the deck neeeeds to be higher than the front when set anyway - I believe that when this sets up correctly- the pressure on the front linkage will ease and maybe that pin will not rub the wheel.

Check the book setup on the rear wheels I am talking about.

I would head BACK to the dealer - if it takes a long ride, and make them solve this problem. But I think you will fix it to your liking here soon!

 

[BAP]

Is the rear lift linkage adjusted properly? It may not be letting the back down enough allowing the deck to go down and move forward enough causing the front to go up.

 

[85Hokie]

Is the rear lift linkage adjusted properly? It may not be letting the back down enough allowing the deck to go down and move forward enough causing the front to go up.

Said well!

 

[Trex1200r]

Kind of off topic, but just a word of caution. I thought that linkage bar looked perfect to pick the front of the mower deck up and drag it to another part of my garage. I must not have had the bar secured to the front of the mower deck, because after a couple of steps it popped free and dropped the front edge of the mower right on top of my foot. I strongly suggest you don't do that, it hurts!

 

[Scott David]

I have a new 2650 with the same mower (only used it once so far) and mine came from the dealer set up as shown in your second picture with the removable pins in the slot. I also noticed that the front wheels didn't touch the ground when set up as shown in the wheel setting chart attached to the mower. I just bumped the rear gauge wheel up one notch and it seemed to work out ok.

 

[eipo]

When I installed my 60" deck on my 2650, non of the measurements in the manual were correct to get the deck situated correctly on the tractor.

Follow the instructions for how the deck should be when fully raised and fully lowered. Dont go by what the measurements on the linkage(s) should be.

 

[Rob 80]

When I installed my 60" deck on my 2650, non of the measurements in the manual were correct to get the deck situated correctly on the tractor.

Follow the instructions for how the deck should be when fully raised and fully lowered. Dont go by what the measurements on the linkage(s) should be.

My front linkage is the same as what the book calls for 19.9 inches. I will look into the back this weekend damn grass is growing like crazy!

The back is probably wrong to because when the mmm is off there is a bracket that holds up the rear link to stop it from going down when not in use and it does line up correctly it's about a inch off.

is there a adjustment for that to?

 

[Rob 80]

Is the rear lift linkage adjusted properly? It may not be letting the back down enough allowing the deck to go down and move forward enough causing the front to go up.

I will look at that this weekend but wouldn't the wheels hit first or does it actually let the deck move forward?

 

[rkidd]

Rob 80. Your deck is designed to ride on the 2 large front bogey wheels and the middle set of rear wheels. All of the other wheels and rollers are anti scalp wheels and rollers and should be about an inch off the ground. You adjust your cutting height by setting the 2 large wheels with the pins in the correct hole and the rear middle set of wheels in the correct notch. There is a diagram on top of the deck that tells you what holes to put the front pins in and what notch for the rear wheels to mow at the height you want to cut at. All of the other wheels and rollers will not touch. Any other questions let me know.

 

[Rob 80]

Rob 80. Your deck is designed to ride on the 2 large front bogey wheels and the middle set of rear wheels. All of the other wheels and rollers are anti scalp wheels and rollers and should be about an inch off the ground. You adjust your cutting height by setting the 2 large wheels with the pins in the correct hole and the rear middle set of wheels in the correct notch. There is a diagram on top of the deck that tells you what holes to put the front pins in and what notch for the rear wheels to mow at the height you want to cut at. All of the other wheels and rollers will not touch. Any other questions let me know.

Thanks i will check that out.

 

[85Hokie]

Rob 80. Your deck is designed to ride on the 2 large front bogey wheels and the middle set of rear wheels. All of the other wheels and rollers are anti scalp wheels and rollers and should be about an inch off the ground. You adjust your cutting height by setting the 2 large wheels with the pins in the correct hole and the rear middle set of wheels in the correct notch. There is a diagram on top of the deck that tells you what holes to put the front pins in and what notch for the rear wheels to mow at the height you want to cut at. All of the other wheels and rollers will not touch. Any other questions let me know.

Wish I had said that !

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=185291&postcount=7

 

[Rob 80]

Wish I had said that !

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=185291&postcount=7

I finally got it to hook up right without it raising the front wheels off the ground but as soon as i hit a few holes etc in the yard it gets knocked back to the wrong slot.

I've tried to shorten it and it will still fall back in the wrong slot. If i shorten it to much it will raise the front mmm wheels again.

 

[Dae06]

Old post I know, but:

My 2018, B2650 did not come the the "Stopper", even though the manual still shows it. The dealer said the stopper caused more problems than it helped so they quit using it. Hope he's right! If not, I'm missing that part.

I realized this when having issues with pinning up my deck. The holes didn't line up at all and am currently trying to adjust the deck so I don't have to break my back lifting the mower to pin it up.

I hope this helps anyone who runs across this post.

 

[KTuk4J]

It has 2 pivot wheels on the front of the mmm. Here's a picture of how the dealer had it hooked up notice the bar above the center wheel

side view and hydraulics all the way down. The only wheels that touch the ground are the two front pivot wheels and the rear center wheel. This is how i mow with it.

center wheel linkage is not hooked up

center bar wear from the center wheel trying to spin from how the dealer had it hooked up.

what the manual says. Hooking it up this way will raise the front of the mmm a few inches of the ground even with the hydraulics all the way down. The linkage is not long enough to be hooked up this way.

side view with linkage hooked up

front

Hooked up the way the manual says to do it.

Okay old thread. Trying to install my RCK60-30BA to my B2650
Is this bracket welded on to the loader or a separate item bolted on.
I have a bolt on bracket for a tractor without a loader and a loader without this bracket?
Or are there two different bolt on brackets, one for without loader one for with a loader?