Missouri Driveway Project

[LarryBud]

HI Folks,

I know there is another driveway thread going but I didn't want o hijack it with my own issues. As summer approaches, I'm looking for the easiest, most cost effective way to gravel the below outline. The photo has Noth to the top. It's about 300' East to West and 75' deep on the two aprons on each side of the building. The mapping software shows 5227 square feet of area in my proposed dive.

Currently, the West 75-100' has gravel which just dithers out and it converts to hard backed sod. What I will call the drive ( East to West ) is high and hard. I can drive vehicles and my L3130 on it immediately after a heave rain. The two aprons on either side of the building are soft / muddy for a few a day after a rain.

I have a L3130 with a toothed FEL and a rear blade. I'd like to gravel this summer during the hot, dry season

Questions:

1) What would you do to the sod? Remove it, Kill it, some fabric, just gavel over it? Or in other words what pre-gravle prep?

2) Soft spots on the side of the buildings? Should I try to put a French Drain in? I could try to grade it for better run off. The drive sits higher the the building.

3) It's hard to see on the picture but a terrace ( from back in the 40s ) runs just NE of the building. Part of the area I wish to gavel there will have a pretty decent pitch. I'm wondering if the gravel will hold on an incline?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts. I'll try to document my project all the way through.

 

[Motion]

I'd suggest asking around and getting with a local contractor to get an estimate on grading, crowning, sloping and ditches as necessary. He could give you some ideas on how to address wet areas, if culverts need to be placed, etc. Once you have a price you can decide weather to do the job yourself or hire him. He'd have access to red clay and maybe get a better price on the type gravel/stone to provide the best drive (I prefer pea gravel). Your tractor doesn't have the weight and blade size as a bulldozer. I'd focus on getting the roads where you want and call the man! If you do it yourself, you'd still need to buy fill and move it to where you need it and still need to purchase gravel. In my area I can get a bulldozer and an operator for $100.00 an hour say it would take him 12-16 hours, call it$1,800.00, it would be right and then you'd just maintain after that. Just my .02

 

[72401L2501]

A dozer will definitely make your life easier. Roads are constructed in layers if you want them to last. Large rock base, limestone type fill, topped with SB2 is really a good combo. Proper packing of each layer is also key.

 

[LarryBud]

Thanks for the feedback Gentlemen. I was looking for a DYI project but perhaps opening the checkbook is the answer.

 

[Motion]

If you decide to hire a bulldozer and you can be there with him, an hourly rate is the way to go, pay the dirt and gravel trucks directly (get their contact information for future use). Forget the checkbook cash is king, doing this type of work, pay as soon as services are rendered and keep extras 20's &10's in your pocket to provide a little extra, they'll remember you when you call and need them again. Be reminded that monies spent is part of your education if you observe and ask questions. Just my .02

 

[ken erickson]

Thanks for the feedback Gentlemen. I was looking for a DYI project but perhaps opening the checkbook is the answer.

Many times a project that you decide to tackle as a DYI can give great satisfaction even though economically does not make sense. It seems to me you have given your driveway a lot of thought and asking good questions, I have no doubt you would build a long lasting drive should you decide to take it on!

 

[72401L2501]

Cash is definitely king. 350 here per load 15 tons because the quarry is about 35 miles away.

 

[mcmxi]

HI Folks,

I know there is another driveway thread going but I didn't want o hijack it with my own issues. As summer approaches, I'm looking for the easiest, most cost effective way to gravel the below outline. The photo has Noth to the top. It's about 300' East to West and 75' deep on the two aprons on each side of the building. The mapping software shows 5227 square feet of area in my proposed dive.

Currently, the West 75-100' has gravel which just dithers out and it converts to hard backed sod. What I will call the drive ( East to West ) is high and hard. I can drive vehicles and my L3130 on it immediately after a heave rain. The two aprons on either side of the building are soft / muddy for a few a day after a rain.

I have a L3130 with a toothed FEL and a rear blade. I'd like to gravel this summer during the hot, dry season

Questions:

1) What would you do to the sod? Remove it, Kill it, some fabric, just gavel over it? Or in other words what pre-gravle prep?

2) Soft spots on the side of the buildings? Should I try to put a French Drain in? I could try to grade it for better run off. The drive sits higher the the building.

3) It's hard to see on the picture but a terrace ( from back in the 40s ) runs just NE of the building. Part of the area I wish to gavel there will have a pretty decent pitch. I'm wondering if the gravel will hold on an incline?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts. I'll try to document my project all the way through.


View attachment 59092

What did you decide to do in the end?

I'm in a similar situation and got a quote a few months ago to have a gravel driveway and parking/barn area put in but for $28k I'm happy to do a much worse job myself . I've driven up through the field pulling a 12,000 lb loaded trailer in 12" deep snow and not got stuck so any sort of gravel I put down will be an improvement. Even if what I do just serves as a starting point for improvements I think it's worth the effort.

I plan to dig up the sod with the FEL and take it the landfill, then use the box blade, rear blade and grading scraper to shape in preparation for a 3" minus base that will be about 8" deep. I'll have the gravel bought in rather than haul it myself.

 

[D2Cat]

I sure wouldn't take the sod to the landfill. They'll probably charge by the weight. Why not just scrape off the sod (which will also be a few inches of dirt) and pile it in an out of the way place? Use the time and money for materials for you road.

 

[mcmxi]

I sure wouldn't take the sod to the landfill. They'll probably charge by the weight. Why not just scrape off the sod (which will also be a few inches of dirt) and pile it in an out of the way place? Use the time and money for materials for you road.

That's a good point. I have a dump trailer and figured that I'd cut down on the amount of tractor travel by dumping the sod into the trailer and then hauling it to it's final resting place ... yet to be determined.

I hope that @LarryBud comes back and tells us how his driveway is going. I'm interested to hear how he's getting on.

 

[LarryBud]

Hi Folks,

I'm still in the planning phase. My plan is to act in the July / August time frame when we typically have hot, dry conditions.

We've had rain for 7 consecutive days ( 4+ inches ) and it's exposing some drainage considerations. When it really pours, I'll have a flow which will cut my current road plan. If you look at my picture, it's to the far left where the driveway meets the road. I'll need to figure something out for this.

Right now, I can't hardly access my property due to wetness, however, my current thinking is to use the FEL to remove the sod and to grade the bed. I have a blade I'll use if necessary. I have sourced some geotextile at what looks like a reasonable price and I plan on putting it down ( at least around the building ) where I have soft black soil.

I'll keep the sod and use it as fill or a culvert project that also needs to be done in dry weather. It will be a pain moving it and piling it up. Not sure of the best strategy as I'd like to keep the rest of the lawn intack. Lots of trips I'm guessing.

 

[NHSleddog]

I did this for a guy that was quoted 11K. It took 6 loads of asphalt crush and 9 hours to complete. It cost him about 3200 if I remember correctly. It is holding up really well.

This was for a guy that already owns a tractor.

 

[MattN03]

I did this for a guy that was quoted 11K. It took 6 loads of asphalt crush and 9 hours to complete. It cost him about 3200 if I remember correctly. It is holding up really well.

This was for a guy that already owns a tractor.

View attachment 60182

Did you remove the top soil first?

When I put the drive in for my shop, I used my B3200 tiller to make it easier to scoop out the sod. Then I laid geotextile fabric down and started bringing in the gravel. It's held up great for the past 2 years.

 

[jimh406]

If it is relatively level, I’d spray the grass to kill the sod instead of taking it up. It would save that amount of work including moving the material. Also, it would make your road slightly higher than the surrounding dirt once you add the gravel.

Then, put fabric down with larger stone. Next, put the smaller with fines on top.

 

[LarryBud]

I did this for a guy that was quoted 11K. It took 6 loads of asphalt crush and 9 hours to complete. It cost him about 3200 if I remember correctly. It is holding up really well.

This was for a guy that already owns a tractor.

View attachment 60182

Nice work there Sleddog. May I ask what steps you took between the staked out plan to the finished project? Thanks

 

[LarryBud]

If it is relatively level, I’d spray the grass to kill the sod instead of taking it up. It would save that amount of work including moving the material. Also, it would make your road slightly higher than the surrounding dirt once you add the gravel.

Then, put fabric down with larger stone. Next, put the smaller with fines on top.

It will be relatively level from right to left but will need to ascend a pretty decent hill. I like the idea of less work and a higher road may help my drainage challenge.

I'll get some pictures to help with the discussion. I really appreciate the feedback before I start going after it.

 

[72401L2501]

As long as it has a slight crown to it and you put drainage on both sides, you're golden. Doesn't have to be a huge crown but ideally something so water isn't running across the driveway. Even without a crown, if you cut a swale on both sides you should be good. 2 passes with a subsoiler set at about 4 inches and tilt your box blade and make a couple passes. Done.

 

[NHSleddog]

Topsoil removed with boxblade and bucket. It was all bucketed around the barn to create a new flat area. It was a nice sand/clay underneath and fine for this use. 4-6" of crush added and graded out.

 

[LarryBud]

Thank you for posting the pics Sleddog. That is a fine driveway.

 

[NHSleddog]

Thank you for posting the pics Sleddog. That is a fine driveway.

Thanks. He saved a bunch of money doing it how he did.