Might upgrade rear blades.

[Foxrunfarms]

I bought this heavy duty 6ft dearborn/case blade in the summer off an auction for $135.00. My intentions were to use it for snow on my lx2610. I used it a few times. I really liked the handle that was on it at 1st then the more I used it it, got in the way.

I attached the blade to the tractor for winter time, greased and oiled it and the balls for the ball bearings fell out. Everything is so rusted and seized on there I really don't think it's worth trying to fix and not even sure how to even get in there. The blade works but is kind of sloppy. It's a 6ft blade and doesn't quit cover the tractor with turned.

I'd be using the blade and loader together for snow. I'd like a little wider blader so I can pull away from my barn and sheds and not have the tractor right up against them. I feel like 7ft would be really boarder line for the 2610 especially in wet heavy snow. I have sometime to think about it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I bought this heavy duty 6ft dearborn/case blade in the summer off an auction for $135.00. My intentions were to use it for snow on my lx2610. I used it a few times. I really liked the handle that was on it at 1st then the more I used it it, got in the way.
View attachment 115140

I attached the blade to the tractor for winter time, greased and oiled it and the balls for the ball bearings fell out. Everything is so rusted and seized on there I really don't think it's worth trying to fix and not even sure how to even get in there. The blade works but is kind of sloppy. It's a 6ft blade and doesn't quit cover the tractor with turned.
View attachment 115141
I'd be using the blade and loader together for snow. I'd like a little wider blader so I can pull away from my barn and sheds and not have the tractor right up against them. I feel like 7ft would be really boarder line for the 2610 especially in wet heavy snow. I have sometime to think about it.

Lots of folks on the old Ford forum would help you get rid of the Dearborn blade

Dan

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yeah, you stole the blade, betting the 'upgrade' will cost a lot more !

 

[jimh406]

Definitely a good deal. I paid almost 10 times that for my rear blade!

There are a few different techniques to remove rust including commercial products. However, that's unnecessary for Winter.

I think the angle is more than needed for snow. Just angle it a bit less.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

Lots of folks on the old Ford forum would help you get rid of the Dearborn blade

Dan

I figured even as in a "collector " might be interested, seen that version made for ford and case.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

yeah, you stole the blade, betting the 'upgrade' will cost a lot more !

Around here 5ft to 6ft blades only go for 150 max on auction. Looking at cheap replacements most are 200.00 but in the weeds or twisted.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

Definitely a good deal. I paid almost 10 times that for my rear blade!

There are a few different techniques to remove rust including commercial products. However, that's unnecessary for Winter.

I think the angle is more than needed for snow. Just angle it a bit less.

So far getting something unfrozen pb blaster or diesel fuel gives me the best luck.

 

[Fly5guy]

I used an 84" blade all last winter with my 2610 and I had no issues pushing a lot of heavy wet snow. You do have spin the blade and go backwards though. I live in northern MN and we had a lot of snow last year. I have the same tires, fluid filled. I am actually in the market for a new blade as mine broke right at the end of last year. It was a old king cutter that had been welded and fixed many times before that. I was hoping to research some cheaper options on here than land pride.

 

[jyoutz]

If you decide to look for another blade I have three recommendations: 1) buy heavy; 2) buy one with offset potential that can be offset by adjusting a pin, not unbolting the moldboard; and 3) make sure you can spin the blade 360 degrees while attached. Too light of a blade won’t cut, but just skips along on top of the road, and no offset capability means that it’s hard or impossible to clean out ditches and recover gravel from ditches. Being able to turn the blade around 360 degrees allows for reversal to plow snow without moving gravel, or simply smoothing gravel or dirt while traveling forward.

 

[Fly5guy]

If you decide to look for another blade I have three recommendations: 1) buy heavy; 2) buy one with offset potential that can be offset by adjusting a pin, not unbolting the moldboard; and 3) make sure you can spin the blade 360 degrees while attached. Too light of a blade won’t cut, but just skips along on top of the road, and no offset capability means that it’s hard or impossible to clean out ditches and recover gravel from ditches. Being able to turn the blade around 370 degrees allows for reversal to plow snow without moving gravel, or simply smoothing gravel or dirt while traveling forward.

Do you have any brand recommendations?

 

[Foxrunfarms]

I used an 84" blade all last winter with my 2610 and I had no issues pushing a lot of heavy wet snow. You do have spin the blade and go backwards though. I live in northern MN and we had a lot of snow last year. I have the same tires, fluid filled. I am actually in the market for a new blade as mine broke right at the end of last year. It was a old king cutter that had been welded and fixed many times before that. I was hoping to research some cheaper options on here than land pride.

Thanks for the advice. In was wondering if I'd be pushing my limits with a 7ft or not. I'm from WI so usually get your left over storms lol. I plowed with a 700cc atv and brought home a truck or skid loader from work if it was really bad. Anything from the 60's to 80's for blades should be super heavy duty. Dearborn, Independent, and John Deere, Ford I see online as heavy ones. I beleive Dearborn and Independent even repainted and branded their blades for other companies .At auctions blades are lucky to hit 150.00. Online just like looking for a brush hog rusted out pieces of junk in the weeds are 400.00 on up. The only thing about older stuff is you just can't back the quick hitch to them and go. I had to some dancing with mine to get it to lock in.Good luck in your search. I figured now that I have this tractor it'll be a light winter.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

If you decide to look for another blade I have three recommendations: 1) buy heavy; 2) buy one with offset potential that can be offset by adjusting a pin, not unbolting the moldboard; and 3) make sure you can spin the blade 360 degrees while attached. Too light of a blade won’t cut, but just skips along on top of the road, and no offset capability means that it’s hard or impossible to clean out ditches and recover gravel from ditches. Being able to turn the blade around 370 degrees allows for reversal to plow snow without moving gravel, or simply smoothing gravel or dirt while traveling forward.

Thanks for the advice. I'm definitely going heavy again, between down pressure and quality. This one I have to pivot using the 3 point arms.........I'll have to swivel the blade a couples times which then I need to pivot the blade too. Something I don't want to take long when it's-30 and snowing out. Some I seen had a wheel to crank or like you mentioned a pin. I like the 360 feature it does help not to bring up gravel or there might be times I need to push backwards.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks for the advice. I'm definitely going heavy again, between down pressure and quality. This one I have to pivot using the 3 point arms.........I'll have to swivel the blade a couples times which then I need to pivot the blade too. Something I don't want to take long when it's-30 and snowing out. Some I seen had a wheel to crank or like you mentioned a pin. I like the 360 feature it does help not to bring up gravel or there might be times I need to push backwards.

Does this look familiar?

 

[jyoutz]

Do you have any brand recommendations?

I bought a Bison brand blade because Landpride blades were out of stock. I really like it, but many manufacturers make blades like I described. A costly but really well built option is made by everything attachments. Something like this would work for you.

Rear Grader Blade With Hydraulic Options

Rear Grader Blade With Hydraulic Options

www.everythingattachments.com

 

[Foxrunfarms]

Does this look familiar?

View attachment 115175

Yes lol. I buy sales, and maintance literature for all my equipment I never got one for this blade yet.

 

[jyoutz]

This one would also be nice to have:

XTreme Duty 6 way Tractor Scrape Blade

We have made the ultimate scrape blade complete with tilt and angle features to ensure it can do any job you need it to. Free Shipping

www.everythingattachments.com

 

[Fly5guy]

I bought a Bison brand blade because Landpride blades were out of stock. I really like it, but many manufacturers make blades like I described. A costly but really well built option is made by everything attachments. Something like this would work for you.

Rear Grader Blade With Hydraulic Options

Rear Grader Blade With Hydraulic Options

www.everythingattachments.com

I got quoted a bison brand from a different dealer then I usually go to. I've never seen them though. I'll have to looking them. My normal dealer doesn't have any land pride and said they may see some in March. Which does me no good. Haha.

 

[jyoutz]

I got quoted a bison brand from a different dealer then I usually go to. I've never seen them though. I'll have to looking them. My normal dealer doesn't have any land pride and said they may see some in March. Which does me no good. Haha.

The Bisons are extremely heavy and well built. After owning it, I’m glad that I didn’t buy the Landpride. I do have the category 2 8 foot blade, but the Cat1 blade also looked rugged for its size class.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

I got quoted a bison brand from a different dealer then I usually go to. I've never seen them though. I'll have to looking them. My normal dealer doesn't have any land pride and said they may see some in March. Which does me no good. Haha.

Yeah it doesn't lol. From my experience and what I'm seeing is look for a solid or heavy frame and thick or reinforced blade. Mn, IA, IL are all about the same for equipment types and equipment for what I'm seeing 500.00 can get you a nice hd blade. If something looks cheap or in the weeds there's a reason why it's there.

 

[jyoutz]

Yeah it doesn't lol. From my experience and what I'm seeing is look for a solid or heavy frame and thick or reinforced blade. Mn, IA, IL are all about the same for equipment types and equipment for what I'm seeing 500.00 can get you a nice hd blade. If something looks cheap or in the weeds there's a reason why it's there.

$500 for a blade???? Are you referring to a used blade? Because you can’t even touch a new one for 3-4 times that amount. The problem I found with used blades is finding one with the pin offset feature. You have to spend a few bucks and look specifically for that style of blade.