Messick's Telescopic Stabilizer Kit - BX Series

[WI_Hedgehog]

I replaced stock Kubota turnbuckles with a Messick's telescopic stabilizer kit this weekend; whether you go with that or Hodge's kit it's huge upgrade that makes life much easier. Much, much easier. Take a few seconds to pin in the width you need and the arms stay at that width, and they allow a little attachment wiggle room, but for the most part are nice and stiff so your implement stays where you put it.

I also added Pat's Quick Change Couplers because of owning a LandPride weight bucket that's pre-quick-change, and am now able to put the bucket on/off from the seat with far less effort than a normal 3-pt hookup battle. I did digitally level the arms/bucket so everything is within 1° of true level, that extra investment of time can make things go much more smoothly.

 

[NCL4701]

Second upvote for telescopic stabilizers. Have used chain/turnbuckle and adjustable solid with prior tractors. My L came with telescopic. Didn't think they were an upgrade until I used them a bit. Major upgrade if you swap 3 point stuff even occasionally.

 

[ejb11235]

I replaced stock Kubota turnbuckles with a Messick's telescopic stabilizer kit this weekend; whether you go with that or Hodge's kit it's huge upgrade that makes life much easier. Much, much easier. Take a few seconds to pin in the width you need and the arms stay at that width, and they allow a little attachment wiggle room, but for the most part are nice and stiff so your implement stays where you put it.

I also added Pat's Quick Change Couplers because of owning a LandPride weight bucket that's pre-quick-change, and am now able to put the bucket on/off from the seat with far less effort than a normal 3-pt hookup battle. I did digitally level the arms/bucket so everything is within 1° of true level, that extra investment of time can make things go much more smoothly.

I don't have any quick change yet, so when I'm changing implements I leave the telescopic stabilizers unpinned until I get the implement on. It's still a pain though, and I'm thinking seriously of getting the Pat's Quick Change. I have a landscape rake that I can't get as high off the ground in the lifted position as I'd like to. I've been concerned about the additional length if I put a quick change on, but it just dawned on me that it would actually get the rake higher off the ground. I also really want to get a hydraulic top 'n tilt, which would also allow me to get the rake higher off the ground. Any thoughts?

 

[NCL4701]

I don't have any quick change yet, so when I'm changing implements I leave the telescopic stabilizers unpinned until I get the implement on. It's still a pain though, and I'm thinking seriously of getting the Pat's Quick Change. I have a landscape rake that I can't get as high off the ground in the lifted position as I'd like to. I've been concerned about the additional length if I put a quick change on, but it just dawned on me that it would actually get the rake higher off the ground. I also really want to get a hydraulic top 'n tilt, which would also allow me to get the rake higher off the ground. Any thoughts?

Either get the hydraulic toplink and sidelink or at least get a hydraulic toplink. I use the toplink on mine with my pine straw rake to get it higher for backing over piles to be picked up. Ability to lift up with the 3 point and also up/back with the toplink is also helpful with unloading.

Top/tilt is a tremendous upgrade for boxblade, backblade, rakes, or anything where it’s advantageous or necessary to adjust throughout the job. If 90% or more of what you do isn’t with the 3 point or is set and forget stuff, such as running a chipper or disc harrow, it’s probably not worth the cost.

If you already have a rear remote, top links aren’t stupid expensive and aren’t hard to source. Adding the valves is the most expensive part of the job and side links aren’t exactly hard to find but there are fewer sources.

 

[ejb11235]

Either get the hydraulic toplink and sidelink or at least get a hydraulic toplink. I use the toplink on mine with my pine straw rake to get it higher for backing over piles to be picked up. Ability to lift up with the 3 point and also up/back with the toplink is also helpful with unloading.

Top/tilt is a tremendous upgrade for boxblade, backblade, rakes, or anything where it’s advantageous or necessary to adjust throughout the job. If 90% or more of what you do isn’t with the 3 point or is set and forget stuff, such as running a chipper or disc harrow, it’s probably not worth the cost.

If you already have a rear remote, top links aren’t stupid expensive and aren’t hard to source. Adding the valves is the most expensive part of the job and side links aren’t exactly hard to find but there are fewer sources.

I have a BX23S which doesn't have rear remotes, but I have all but decided to make it happen once I have the funds. The key choice will be electronically-actuated valves or manually operated valves. Cost versus flexibility. The top link is by far more important to me but I'll build out for at least dual rears even if initially I only have a hydraulic top link.

I've finally gotten to the point where I actually improve my driveway with the box blade rather than making it worse. But my set up on the tilt has been all wrong! I read an article today on box blade use that clarified everything for me. Now that I'm over my initial face-palm, I'm super stoked to try things out this weekend.