Has anyone here ever used the MaxLine RapidAir Garage Air Line Kits? If so, how easy or difficult were they to install, and are you happy with the end results?
MaxLine RapidAir Garage Air Line Kits
- Thread starter DustyRusty
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I've worked with them in the past, they are good just not cheap.
Here is another option and I think a little easier and works perfectly.
you can buy a lot of parts to make it fit exactly the way you want it.
www.zoro.com
Here is another option and I think a little easier and works perfectly.
you can buy a lot of parts to make it fit exactly the way you want it.
Primefit 26-Piece Accessory Kit w/100Ft Tubing PCKIT26 | Zoro
Order Primefit 26-Piece Accessory Kit w/100Ft Tubing, PCKIT26 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
www.zoro.com
No...Not used that product.
I used DOT brake tubing in my pole barn. Easy to work with and reasonably priced IMHO.
I used DOT brake tubing in my pole barn. Easy to work with and reasonably priced IMHO.
DOT AIR BRAKE - PUSH IN | Trausch Dynamics
Typical application: air brake systems Not for fuel, water or oil Operating pressure up to 200 PSI depending on tube selection -40° to +200°F temperature range CA360 brass (straights), CA377 brass (shapes) Easy, fast assembly One-piece fit...
www.hydraulicstore.com
DOT AIR BRAKE TUBING | Trausch Dynamics
DOT (Dempartment of Transportation) For Air Brake Systems SAE Type A (Single Wall Non-Reinforced Nylon) SAE Type B (Fiber Reinforced) Temperature Range: -40°F to +200°F Ultra-Violet Stabilizer Nylon Core and Braided Fiber (3/8" and Larger)...
www.hydraulicstore.com
I have a kit in my garage going on 13 years now. Still working great. A few of the Quick attach bungs didn't work out of the box, replaced them.
My only advice would be for a clean install, run a laser line to get the lines straight, get the hose tight and use mutiple clamps so it stays tight. I had a line on the ceiling that got loose and looks like a wobbly mess.
My only advice would be for a clean install, run a laser line to get the lines straight, get the hose tight and use mutiple clamps so it stays tight. I had a line on the ceiling that got loose and looks like a wobbly mess.
My neighbor used copper tube everywher, said it acted as a good air line drier. Helpful if you paint.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
be careful about the 'size on the package' !
the socalled '3/8" hose is really 1/4" ID !!!
I have 2 of those kits here next to me,only $20 on sale, pre amerchin....
the socalled '3/8" hose is really 1/4" ID !!!
I have 2 of those kits here next to me,only $20 on sale, pre amerchin....
I looked at those airline kits But ended up just using black pipe from Home depot.
From the compressor It runs to the ceiling then across a bit, ONE drip leg with hand valve.
then into a water separator/desiccant filter/Motorgard filter/regulator and over to my ceiling mounted hose reel.
I also run an automatic tank drain on the compressor.
Works great.... change desiccant beads maybe once a month... depending on use.
(dry them out next to the woodstove and re-use)
I see a lot of guys build outrageous overkill systems with 6 or 7 driplegs and all kinds of crazy loops and stuff.
simplicity works just fine for me.
If I used the air professionally or more often, the only other improvement I would make would be a cooler on the copper line coming off the compressor going INTO the tank.
That is where most of your moisture comes from.... Very hot air going into a cool tank.
(tank drain helps with this issue also)
Rectorseal5 on the black pipe joints, I have zero leaks.
From the compressor It runs to the ceiling then across a bit, ONE drip leg with hand valve.
then into a water separator/desiccant filter/Motorgard filter/regulator and over to my ceiling mounted hose reel.
I also run an automatic tank drain on the compressor.
Works great.... change desiccant beads maybe once a month... depending on use.
(dry them out next to the woodstove and re-use)
I see a lot of guys build outrageous overkill systems with 6 or 7 driplegs and all kinds of crazy loops and stuff.
simplicity works just fine for me.
If I used the air professionally or more often, the only other improvement I would make would be a cooler on the copper line coming off the compressor going INTO the tank.
That is where most of your moisture comes from.... Very hot air going into a cool tank.
(tank drain helps with this issue also)
Rectorseal5 on the black pipe joints, I have zero leaks.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
FWIW , cut from another site...
However, PEX piping is not rated for compressed air systems and is very susceptible to UV damage. This makes PEX not suitable for outdoor use as the UV-rays can significantly damage, so it is best suited to indoor airlines and those inside walls.
Though, with that being said, there are examples of PEX tubing for air supply being exposed to direct fluorescent light and indirect sunlight and still performing well. It’s more of a recommendation to not expose it to UV-light as direct UV-light could cause pipe failure within 30 days.
However, PEX piping is not rated for compressed air systems and is very susceptible to UV damage. This makes PEX not suitable for outdoor use as the UV-rays can significantly damage, so it is best suited to indoor airlines and those inside walls.
Though, with that being said, there are examples of PEX tubing for air supply being exposed to direct fluorescent light and indirect sunlight and still performing well. It’s more of a recommendation to not expose it to UV-light as direct UV-light could cause pipe failure within 30 days.
Pex, when exposed to Uv light is susceptible to chlorine failure. This is only a problem when it carries chlorinated/city water, not air. This is not to judge on it's appropriateness for air use in it's other properties, however.
It all depends on how much you value your and others' lives as to what you use. If you use something that isn't labeled for the use that you are using it for, and something goes terribly wrong, then you may be held financially and morally responsible. Even if you are found not guilty, the cost of the trial will far outweigh the savings of using a product that isn't certified for use.
You can find a very inexpensive engine oil that isn't rated for use in a diesel engine, but you can save as much as 50% of the cost of the correct diesel engine oil. Are you going to use it in your Kubota because of the 50% savings even though it isn't rated for use in a diesel? We all make choices in life, and how you make those choices determines how you go through life. I don't believe in making poor choices in life that may harm others.
You can find a very inexpensive engine oil that isn't rated for use in a diesel engine, but you can save as much as 50% of the cost of the correct diesel engine oil. Are you going to use it in your Kubota because of the 50% savings even though it isn't rated for use in a diesel? We all make choices in life, and how you make those choices determines how you go through life. I don't believe in making poor choices in life that may harm others.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
One problem with PEX is the temperature rating ! At higher temps, pressure rating goes down.
A lot of air compressors today pump up to 155 PSI,so something to consider
The other 'fun' fact..... some use the ID and some the OD for selling their PEX.
and every connection restricts air flow. Overall you calculate on the minimum ID of the 'system'.
A lot of air compressors today pump up to 155 PSI,so something to consider
The other 'fun' fact..... some use the ID and some the OD for selling their PEX.
and every connection restricts air flow. Overall you calculate on the minimum ID of the 'system'.
If you have the fittings and not the pipe, I would go with PAP instead. Pex-al-pex has the advantages of Pex connectors, with the pipe not being susceptible to the disadvantages of straight Pex. The aluminum inner layer is the difference. It is much like gold label cpvc in that respect. There is some half truths about Pex posted here, but it is true that manf. does not endorse it for air line installation and use. PAP does not have this problem.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Locally PAP is $1 per foot for the 1/2" version, 200m rolls. It'd be interesting to cost compare the required system in PAP vs BIP.
I may check pricing when I'm ready to install, but I have plenty of PEX on hand in both white and red colors.
If it's inside, especially in walls, pressure below 120, Pex would probably work. To me, the cost of the PAP is low enough, and it's benefits over Pex b is substantial for that application. But to each his own. I've worked with it for over 30 years, and it's predecessor quest before that, in water, gas and heat applications. When it came to heat and gas, PAP is substantially better. Air is a gas. Price difference, nil.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
nearly everything is cheaper south of the 49th, and I'm not allowed to buy from Amazon.com, stuck with dotCA.