I replaced the radiator, water pump, fan and thermostat on my m9540 Kubota. The tractor sat for over a month while waiting on parts and doing the work. When I got everything installed I was ready to crank the tractor, service and get to work. The tractor would not start. The battery is charged and all connections are good. There is no power to any of the terminals on the switch. I checked all of the fuses under the steering column and the master switches under the hood. All are good. I also have power on the starter and alternator at the battery wires. A friend of mine thinks I have a blown fusible link. A mechanic I talked with said I could have grounded a hot wire accidentally and caused it to blow. He did not know where it might be located. I have looked and can’t find anything that looks like a loop or fusible link. Have looked on the internet and can find no help in locating it. Any suggestions about where to look or other problems I might investigate would be a great help. Thanks rl
M9540 want crank
- Thread starter Icoach
- Start date
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
There may be a large block shaped fuse plugged into a pigtail instead of the wire pigtail loop of wire. I would assume that it is near the starter but no personal knowledge on your particular model
You need to provide more info on your tractor if you want to get useful help.
Cab or ROPS makes a big difference.
Some models spanning many years of production have changes the WSM may not reflect.
The WSM I can see does not show fuseable links but rather Slo Blow fuses,
Dave
Cab or ROPS makes a big difference.
Some models spanning many years of production have changes the WSM may not reflect.
The WSM I can see does not show fuseable links but rather Slo Blow fuses,
Dave
I have an m9540 cab tractor with shuttle shift. Can’t find information on what letters come after the m9540. Thanks
Do you have or know where to access the same information for an M9540 cab tractor. Or is the wiring and fuses etc. the same? Thanks
Shown below is an explanation of the suffix letters following Kubota tractor models .
It appears Dave has your tractor's fuse location shown for you.
Did you check/clean/tighten negative battery cable where it attaches to tractor frame????
Attachments
Fusible links are not always loops. They are often just a short section of wire with a noticeable connector at each end, inline with the ordinary wire, and usually near the power source.
Thanks for the info. I have checked the slow blow fuses and all are intact but still no power to any of the wires going to the switch. The tractor was running when I parked it to replace the cooling components. Now there is no power to the switch. Could a relay go bad just sitting and could that cause the loss of power to the switch? I have also cleaned the junction boxes and used the grease that increases conductivity when reassembled. Appreciate any suggestions I might be missing. Thanks rl
Thanks for the info. I have checked the slow blow fuses and all are intact but still no power to any of the wires going to the switch. The tractor was running when I parked it to replace the cooling components. Now there is no power to the switch. Could a relay go bad just sitting.
Thanks for the info. I have checked the slow blow fuses and all are intact but still no power to any of the wires going to the switch. The tractor was running when I parked it to replace the cooling components. Now there is no power to the switch. Could a relay go bad just sitting?
Sorry about the double post but I didn’t see where it was posted. My phone and service has been terrible for 3 or 4 days now.
Can you tell us how you checked them? Did you just look at them? Is there voltage going to them? And out of them?
Yes, it's possible, but...
unless that relay is "upstream" the switch, it's not the source of your problem.
There is no such thing as grease that increases connectivity. That's a common misunderstanding. There are greases that prevent corrosion, so they protect conductivity, but they do not increase conductivity. Yes, I know, some have zinc powder in them. That's for corrosion protection, not conductivity. Those who wish to dispute this should see here first.
If you are using No-Alox or a similar compound, stop. That's formulated specifically for Aluminum connections in AC power systems.(No Aluminum and Oxygen. No-AlOX.) It's not made for 12v systems. If you need a protective grease, use silicone dielectric grease.
I went through the process of checking all of the fuses to ensure I had juice on both sides. With that confirmed and some information from the net I pulled the floor board and found the three junction blocks located there. i took them apart and found a little corrosion. Cleaned it up and put back together and still no run. Started checking both sides of the junction blocks for fire. Had one set of wires with fire on one side and none on the other. Got tool to release the wire from inside the junction block and found hidden corrosion so bad it had the connection eaten away to the point the plug was barely hanging on to the wire. Used a cheater wire and 2 couplings and we now are cutting and bailing hay just in time for dry weather in North GA. Thanks for the help and encouragement. rl