I have a M95 cab tractor, put a new starter on it about 6 weeks ago. Finished up fall hay no problems. Now when I turn the ignition switch on, dash lights come on but as soon as I try to start the tractor, I hear a click in dash area and all dash lights go out and tractor will not turn over. Replaced switch but still have same problem. I am getting 12 volts to the switch. Any ideas where to look next?
M95 electrical problem
- Thread starter OakWarrenFarm
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
How old, corroded are the primary battery cables ?
When were they last removed, cleaned ?
when lights come on then go dark when starting , it's a sure sign that not enough current if flowing.
usually due to old or corroded cables .bad grounds, bad connections, bad battery
When were they last removed, cleaned ?
when lights come on then go dark when starting , it's a sure sign that not enough current if flowing.
usually due to old or corroded cables .bad grounds, bad connections, bad battery
Battery and both cable ends were replaced back in June. Multimeter is showing 12.3 volts at battery and starter. When light go out on dash they will not come back on unless I wait about 30 minutes to try again.
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Are you saying “clamp on cable ends” were replaced? Like these?
In any case really, please just go ahead and clean all the battery cable ends (four total). I would replace the cables if you have the clamp on ends. There have been MANY MANY cases where the poster says “cables were cleaned a month ago” that end up being resolved when the cable ends are all cleaned and tightly connected again. Sometimes that takes weeks to get back to so it is better to eliminate that first.
Try it with a test light. If you have a partial connection (corrosion, for example) you can see the correct voltage, but when you put a load on it, the current can't flow enough to make things happen.
If you have a helper available, put the meter on it and have your helper crank it. I'm betting you'll see the voltage go to near nothing.
A meter is a great tool, but it's not the whole story.
I'm assuming it's an M9540?
Under the floor plate is a harness. That harness often corrodes and the symptom can be exactly what you describe.
also battery cable connections will cause exactly what you describe. Those cable clamp things are notorious for this-they dont provide a very good connection between the clamp and the actual conductor. There is better options but the local parts store doesn't usually have them in stock.
Under the floor plate is a harness. That harness often corrodes and the symptom can be exactly what you describe.
also battery cable connections will cause exactly what you describe. Those cable clamp things are notorious for this-they dont provide a very good connection between the clamp and the actual conductor. There is better options but the local parts store doesn't usually have them in stock.
Do you have a 12v load you can directly connect to the battery to test if the battery is still good? It could be a large 12V light bulb, fan, etc...
You. Need. To. Do. A. Load. Test.
A meter can mislead you. If there is corrosion (which can be hidden) in the circuit you can measure the correct voltage when there is no load, but the circuit can't flow enough current (amperage) to do any work.
You. Need. To. Do. A. Load. Test.
A meter can mislead you. If there is corrosion (which can be hidden) in the circuit you can measure the correct voltage when there is no load, but the circuit can't flow enough current (amperage) to do any work.
You. Need. To. Do. A. Load. Test.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,