M6060 cranks but wont start

highaltitude908

New member

Equipment
Kubota svl75, m6060, m8560
Mar 19, 2022
3
0
1
Flemington, NJ
A few months ago I bought a M6060 that was in a flood during Ida. All fluids were drained and refilled and no water got into the fuel system. I've cleaned and dried out all the connectors and tested all the relays and fuses. I was able to get it to crank over and fire on a quick sniff of ether. I found that the electric pump wasn't working and the CRS harness was not getting power. I was able to trace the problem back to the ECU where I discovered it was filled with water and had two burnt pins inside. I found a place that rebuilds ECU's and sent it out where they cleaned, repaired and tested it. I just got it back and plugged everything in and now have power to the CRS system and electric fuel pump, but it still just cranks and will not fire.

I had a buddy come over who has a Kubota diagnostic laptop and he was unable to get it to establish a connection. I did test at the diag plug and had 12v and ground. I also have the 5 volt reference at all of the sensors (crankshaft camshaft, etc.)

Nothing on the guage cluster works, when you turn the key on only the screen lights up but it does not display anything.

My questions are:
Can the faulty guage cluster be part of the issue why the laptop cannot establish communications with the ECU as two can wires go to it?
I've also read about there being two ECUs one an Engine Control Unit and the other an Electronic Control Unit (see pic attatched). I assume the Engine Control Unit is the one on top of the radiator, If so then where is the Electronic Control Unit (#030)?
Is there anything else I should be checking for?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
 

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Chanceywd

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
Mar 26, 2021
615
488
63
central ny
I don't think you want to use ether at all!
 
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JerryMT

Active member

Equipment
Kubota M4500, NH TD95D,Ford 4610
Jun 17, 2017
528
156
43
The Palouse - North Idaho
A few months ago I bought a M6060 that was in a flood during Ida. All fluids were drained and refilled and no water got into the fuel system. I've cleaned and dried out all the connectors and tested all the relays and fuses. I was able to get it to crank over and fire on a quick sniff of ether. I found that the electric pump wasn't working and the CRS harness was not getting power. I was able to trace the problem back to the ECU where I discovered it was filled with water and had two burnt pins inside. I found a place that rebuilds ECU's and sent it out where they cleaned, repaired and tested it. I just got it back and plugged everything in and now have power to the CRS system and electric fuel pump, but it still just cranks and will not fire.

I had a buddy come over who has a Kubota diagnostic laptop and he was unable to get it to establish a connection. I did test at the diag plug and had 12v and ground. I also have the 5 volt reference at all of the sensors (crankshaft camshaft, etc.)

Nothing on the guage cluster works, when you turn the key on only the screen lights up but it does not display anything.

My questions are:
Can the faulty guage cluster be part of the issue why the laptop cannot establish communications with the ECU as two can wires go to it?
I've also read about there being two ECUs one an Engine Control Unit and the other an Electronic Control Unit (see pic attatched). I assume the Engine Control Unit is the one on top of the radiator, If so then where is the Electronic Control Unit (#030)?
Is there anything else I should be checking for?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
I can't answer your questions on the electronics. But if the machine was in a flood, I would be pretty sure the electronics will have problems.

First of all don't use starting fluid to try to start the engine. That's a good way to break rings and piston lands.
When you try to start, are you seeing any signs that the engine is getting fuel? Bleed the fuel system per the OEM instructions. You should see some diesel vapors if it's getting fuel. Is the glow plug system working? If you have a lift pump is it supplying fuel to the injector pump (IP). Take the fuel supply line to the IP off at the fuel filter and if you have a tank valve make sure it is open. What does the fuel flow look like coming out of the filter? If it dribbles, or is weak or intermittent, the problem is a fuel restriction between the tank and filter. Work back toward the tank to find it.
Check the air filter. Was this changed. If it was in flood water replace both filters.
 
Last edited:

Mark_BX25D

Well-known member

Equipment
Bx25D
Jul 19, 2020
1,788
1,301
113
Virginia
f the machine was in a flood, I would be pretty sure the electronics will have problems.
Being an engineer, I can tell you with a high degree of certainty that all of the electronics will have problems.

First, not knowing what the shop did with the ECU, I have to say that thing is a crap shoot. Just cleaning crud off and repairing obvious stuff does not guarantee that all of the solid state components are in good shape. When water hits a circuit board and the circuitry connected to that board, all bets are off. You'll have voltages showing up where they don't belong, and that can damage components with no visible sign of damage. Worse, that damage can be partial and it can be subtle, which can have you pulling your hair out.

The ONLY way I would trust that ECU is if the company that rebuilt it has the necessary simulator equipment to put the thing through its paces and verify that it works as designed.

The chances of that are extremely low, unless maybe they specialize in Kubota tractor ECUs.

Anyway, ask them how and what they tested, and what they warranty. Be very careful about the exact wording of their warranty. I"m betting they won't warranty original function under all normal operating conditions. Most likely, the only thing you['ll get out of them is a statement about what they actually did, and no warranty. Let us know.

But moving past the ECU question, you need to get busy with some circuit board cleaner and some contact cleaner (I like CRC products) and clean up every single connection, every single circuit board.

Yes, that's going to take a while.

I hope this is your flooded tractor and not something you bought cheap hoping you could get a good deal. Flood damage is nasty stuff. I would never buy a flood damaged vehicle, not in spite of the fact that I understand electronics, but because I understand electronics.

You have a lot of tedious labor ahead of you, and don't take shortcuts.
 
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fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,847
5,071
113
Eastham, Ma
Being an engineer, I can tell you with a high degree of certainty that all of the electronics will have problems.

First, not knowing what the shop did with the ECU, I have to say that thing is a crap shoot. Just cleaning crud off and repairing obvious stuff does not guarantee that all of the solid state components are in good shape. When water hits a circuit board and the circuitry connected to that board, all bets are off. You'll have voltages showing up where they don't belong, and that can damage components with no visible sign of damage. Worse, that damage can be partial and it can be subtle, which can have you pulling your hair out.

The ONLY way I would trust that ECU is if the company that rebuilt it has the necessary simulator equipment to put the thing through its paces and verify that it works as designed.

The chances of that are extremely low, unless maybe they specialize in Kubota tractor ECUs.

Anyway, ask them how and what they tested, and what they warranty. Be very careful about the exact wording of their warranty. I"m betting they won't warranty original function under all normal operating conditions. Most likely, the only thing you['ll get out of them is a statement about what they actually did, and no warranty. Let us know.

But moving past the ECU question, you need to get busy with some circuit board cleaner and some contact cleaner (I like CRC products) and clean up every single connection, every single circuit board.

Yes, that's going to take a while.

I hope this is your flooded tractor and not something you bought cheap hoping you could get a good deal. Flood damage is nasty stuff. I would never buy a flood damaged vehicle, not in spite of the fact that I understand electronics, but because I understand electronics.

You have a lot of tedious labor ahead of you, and don't take shortcuts.
I totally agree with the "never" part!🥵
 

highaltitude908

New member

Equipment
Kubota svl75, m6060, m8560
Mar 19, 2022
3
0
1
Flemington, NJ
So I figured I'd post an update for everyone... But first I'd like to make it known when I said I used ether, I only gave it one shot to see if it would pop on it. I did not dump a whole can in it to make it run...

So after some research and talking with my buddy at the Kubota dealer, the guage cluster is a computer on its own, so with the screen and none of the guages actually moving I was able to test and had power going to the cluster but nothing else. With that I ordered a new cluster for the tractor.

I also found out that there is indeed two ecu's. The "engine" ecu is the one up front under the hood. The other called the "tractor" ecu is under the seat. Since I was having communication issues with the ecu's, I decided to take the one out from under the seat. Sure enough the connector had water in it. The unit itself is completely sealed unlike the engine ecu. I went ahead and dried and cleaned all the pins and put it all back together. Still crank, no start.

In the mean time the new cluster came. I plugged it in, turned the key all the guages and screen worked. I was able to crank the tractor and it started! I was able to test all functions and everything worked fine except for one issue. I have Error-3 code coming up on the screen and the tractor will not rev up, it just sits and idles. I know the code refers to the acceleration sensor.

I was wondering if anyone had some insight on where to look and if there is anything I can check for besides the obvious (water). Is there any way I can ohm this sensor out?

TIA