M6040 strange starting noise

[DrankTheOrangeKoolaid]

I bought an M6040 a couple years ago. It needed some TLC but was in decent condition. Last summer it started making a loud "clack" when it was starting.

When I start it, it starts but coughs and sputters. Throttle position doesn't change anything. Then it will start making a loud "clack", sound kind of like a solenoid, but louder than any I've ever heard. It will do this once or several times and then the engine will rev up and everything is fine. Once the engine is warm, I can turn it off and it will start just fine. Also, if I plug in the block heater for a couple hours it will start just fine.

I'm at a loss on this one, don't know where to start. Any suggestions?

 

[RCW]

Plug the block heater in.....

Just being a smart Alec - be curious what recommendations you get.

Best wishes getting it resolved.

Duplicated...sorry

 

[RCW]

Deleted- duplicate.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Test the glow plugs.
If they test good, then you will need to test the injectors.

 

[DrankTheOrangeKoolaid]

One glow plug reads 9.4k ohm, the others read 'open'.

Out of curiosity, what made you suspect them? Just trying to improve my diagnostic skills.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

One glow plug reads 9.4k ohm, the others read 'open'.

Out of curiosity, what made you suspect them? Just trying to improve my diagnostic skills.

It's the way you described the sound and also the coughs and sputters.
Indicitive of no glow plug preheating.

 

[DrankTheOrangeKoolaid]

OK, I'm back.

Four new glow plugs but the problem is still here. Looks like injectors are next. It was suggested to me that before I pull injectors I should try a dose of Sea Foam. I might just try that because I have enough other projects on the go...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

OK, I'm back.

Four new glow plugs but the problem is still here. Looks like injectors are next. It was suggested to me that before I pull injectors I should try a dose of Sea Foam. I might just try that because I have enough other projects on the go...

Did you confirm the glow plugs are working?
The chances of seafoam helping you is really low.
If you need to do the injectors, get a hold of Oregon Fuel Injection for injectors, as ebay, amazon and a host of other sellers of new "good" injectors are far from that.

 

[JasonW]

What are the temps when this is happening?
On that model you can override the glow plug controller by having the shuttle lever out of neutral and turning the key to start for 5 seconds or so. That will give power to the glow plugs. Assuming the neutral switch hasn’t been bypassed and you run yourself over.…

I have done this with mine and it makes a noticeable difference even at 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

[DrankTheOrangeKoolaid]

Did you confirm the glow plugs are working?
The chances of seafoam helping you is really low.
If you need to do the injectors, get a hold of Oregon Fuel Injection for injectors, as ebay, amazon and a host of other sellers of new "good" injectors are far from that.

This tractor has no way that I'm aware of to force the glow plugs on. I turn the key to the on position and if it thinks the glow plugs are required the indicator on the dash lights up. I had to park the tractor outside so that it would be cold enough to turn on the glow plugs. I get 12V at the glow plug, not sure what else I can test to confirm they are working.

 

[DrankTheOrangeKoolaid]

What are the temps when this is happening?
On that model you can override the glow plug controller by having the shuttle lever out of neutral and turning the key to start for 5 seconds or so. That will give power to the glow plugs. Assuming the neutral switch hasn’t been bypassed and you run yourself over.…

I have done this with mine and it makes a noticeable difference even at 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Cool. I should have read your post before I responded to @North Idaho Wolfman. I will give that a try..

The hard starting happens even at 70F.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Cool. I should have read your post before I responded to @North Idaho Wolfman. I will give that a try..

The hard starting happens even at 70F.

I would pull and test the injectors.
You can do it right off the side of the injection pump.
You can also do a fountain test on thhe injection pump.
If you would like to do that just let me know and I'll explain how to do it.

 

[DrankTheOrangeKoolaid]

I'm back... boy I would like to finish dealing with one problem before another showed up... but you know how it is


So, valve cover is off and I'm ready to remove the injector nozzles... Well, not quite ready 'cause I'm in uncharted territory and a little worried about what I'm seeing...



I think what I have to do is remove the red bolts (one for each injector and one that goes into the head) and lift out the tube. Then I remove the blue bolts and the plates that hold the injectors down. What has me worried is this



I don't know what that is, but it makes me think there might be little parts that will want to go flying around the shop when I lift the bolt.

Advice on how to proceed would be much appreciated.

 

[whitetiger]

The item circled in your last picture is just the sealing washers for the fuel leak-off line. It's just the top and bottom washers connected with a strap. Just remove the 5 bolts through the line, then the bolts circled in the first picture, and the injectors will pull out.

 

[DrankTheOrangeKoolaid]

Perfect. Thanks. I hoped it would be that simple, but I feared Mr. Reality might have other ideas.

 

[DrankTheOrangeKoolaid]

Got the injector nozzles pulled (#1 put up a fight). Attached them to the injector pump and setup a bucket for them to spray into. At least one did not look right, so I'm looking for a shop to test them from me.

What is this "fountain test" you speak of, North Idaho Wolfman ? Sounds like my next step.