M4D-071 problems
- Thread starter Rexr
- Start date
Has anybody used the draft on a m4 or 7060, I can test my with a bar and it works but I pulled 3 16" bottom plows in the 2nd hole and a 2 row cultivator and 8' scrape blade in the bottom hole with the draft lever all the way up, the bottom plow just sank and I couldn't tell that it did anything with the others
For what it's worth...
The specs on the M7060 power steering cylinder is 1750 psi at engine idle. You can test this by removing one of the hoses and inserting a gauge. There may also be air in the line which can be removed by turning the wheels from lock to lock position. If the psi is low, it can be adjusted at the steering controller.
The specs on the M7060 power steering cylinder is 1750 psi at engine idle. You can test this by removing one of the hoses and inserting a gauge. There may also be air in the line which can be removed by turning the wheels from lock to lock position. If the psi is low, it can be adjusted at the steering controller.
My M9 has the same draft setup the higher the pin hole the more sensitive it is. I tend to use the lower hole mostly. The clearance between the stop block and the upper link mount has to be set correctly as well and I don't have that spec handy right now, but I think it's 1/16th of an inch.
Steering sounds like it's normal. Radial tires make the problem you describe even worse because they grip the ground so much better. My M doesn't have any problem but I don't have a loader. My L does like what yours is doing but it's not as bad when I have the bucket off compared to when it's on.
I did my own window tint for less than $100. Been on my M for 16 years without any issues. I'll say this. If you plan on doing night work don't go darker than 35%. My windshield is 35% almost to the dash and it's fine. I did my side and rear windows in 5% and you can't hardly see even with all led lighting. With factory lights I couldn't see anything beside me.
I did my own window tint for less than $100. Been on my M for 16 years without any issues. I'll say this. If you plan on doing night work don't go darker than 35%. My windshield is 35% almost to the dash and it's fine. I did my side and rear windows in 5% and you can't hardly see even with all led lighting. With factory lights I couldn't see anything beside me.
One thing about our older M's, the OEM lighting leaves a lot to be desired. Don't know about the new ones, both mine are like Bulldog's, 'vintage' models, 2002 and 2004. OEM lighting sucked, only way to describe it.
Both mine are 100% LED now, even the dash backlights. Better illumination, much less current draw. and no replacing bulbs (so long as you use quality SMD's).
I run bias R1's on both of mine so I was a bit puzzled about the steering issue but I'd say Bulldog covered it quite well.
Both mine are 100% LED now, even the dash backlights. Better illumination, much less current draw. and no replacing bulbs (so long as you use quality SMD's).
I run bias R1's on both of mine so I was a bit puzzled about the steering issue but I'd say Bulldog covered it quite well.
Kubota was saying the same thing about the tires, like the wider radials but it seems crazy to me that kubota would setup a tractor from the factory that performs like this, to me they should boost the steering or put bias tires, I guess if it I ever wear out these tires and it still bothers me I will get bias tires next. I have the loader off right now and it's not doing it now.
I got the D model so it came with led work light around the cab but not in the grill,the led's really light it up
I pretty sure my draft is a little different, the bottom is the most sensitive on mine, I will have to look and see if it has a stop block. I can make it work if I put a pry bar in the top link and pull down on it but I dont get anything in a field setting when I'm actually working even with the draft lever set to its lightest position
It's not just a Kubota problem. I help a couple friends several times a year baling hay and use their Deere and NH tractors a lot. This is a problem that's not brand or tire specific. It's much worse on ground where the tires can really get a bite. Like I said my own loader tractor does the same. I believe it's something you will get used to because I don't even notice it any more.
The biggest thing I believe is old school people like myself that grew up with 2wd tractors never had this issue. These newer machines with 4wd, big tires and loaders have a different feel all together. A small learning curve but once you adjust it won't be a issue.
Ok, so I followed the procedure from the service manual for adjusting the draft rod and I believe I have it working now, tested with an 8' scrape blade.
For the air I will tint the windows.
For the steering, I dont think I will bother with another dealer because of kubota's claim that it is operating within specs and what has been said here about the tires and loader combination, I guess I will just accept that as Kubota normal but for the record I still think it is crazy.
Thanks everyone,
Rex
For the air I will tint the windows.
For the steering, I dont think I will bother with another dealer because of kubota's claim that it is operating within specs and what has been said here about the tires and loader combination, I guess I will just accept that as Kubota normal but for the record I still think it is crazy.
Thanks everyone,
Rex
I cannot figure out how to “screenshot” or copy/paste a paragraph from the Operator’s Manual for my M4700, but on page 32 it states: “if the hydraulic unit is set for Draft Control, draft response is more sensitive when an implement is connected to the lower set of top link mounting holes. If draft control is not required, it is recommended to use the low set (1).”
In the accompanying illustration, the number (1) points to the top hole, and the others descend and are numbered 2,3, and 4. I have no idea what they are trying to convey.
In the accompanying illustration, the number (1) points to the top hole, and the others descend and are numbered 2,3, and 4. I have no idea what they are trying to convey.
Reading further in the manual, it is made clearer as they have a chart with relevant lever positions delineated. The holes are numbered from Top to Bottom in the order 1,2,3,4.
The Draft control is more sensitive if the lower holes are used. Use the TOP hole (1) for non-drafting implements like mowers, rakes, and tedders.
Use holes 2,3 and 4 (with increasing sensitivity) for moldboards, and disc, spikes, subsoilers.
To control absolute depth, set that with the position lever, and set the desired draft with the draft lever (this is called “draft and mixed” control.). The exact words used in the manual when using a moldboard are “Place the Draft control to the suitable position and set the implement pull with the position lever.”
When using a mower, blade, earthmover, etc use “position control” and place the draft lever in the forward most position.
It should be obvious by now that I get most of my vegetables from the store and I’m not a real farmer.
The Draft control is more sensitive if the lower holes are used. Use the TOP hole (1) for non-drafting implements like mowers, rakes, and tedders.
Use holes 2,3 and 4 (with increasing sensitivity) for moldboards, and disc, spikes, subsoilers.
To control absolute depth, set that with the position lever, and set the desired draft with the draft lever (this is called “draft and mixed” control.). The exact words used in the manual when using a moldboard are “Place the Draft control to the suitable position and set the implement pull with the position lever.”
When using a mower, blade, earthmover, etc use “position control” and place the draft lever in the forward most position.
It should be obvious by now that I get most of my vegetables from the store and I’m not a real farmer.
If you are using Windows 10 use 'Snip & Sketch' - click on 'New' and draw around what you want to copy with your mouse.
The problem I have is... a storm blew the roof off our house last June and water ruined 3 computers...all Win-10. I’m tired of buying computers (8 over the last 30 years) and then having to pay for software that I’d already bought for previous units. So...my “Apple” buddies have talked me into an I-Pad Pro.... and I have an entirely new learning curve to suffer.
The problem I have is... a storm blew the roof off our house last June and water ruined 3 computers...all Win-10. I’m tired of buying computers (8 over the last 30 years) and then having to pay for software that I’d already bought for previous units. So...my “Apple” buddies have talked me into an I-Pad Pro.... and I have an entirely new learning curve to suffer.
To top matters off further, the insurance co will only pay for the 1/4 of the roof that blew off despite the fact I’ve been paying 20 years on a “cosmetic” premium...and they claim that new metal sheeting that won’t match 20 year patina on the rest of the roof is NOT “Cosmetic”
They paid me $20K to replace the damaged panels...but the original type material is no longer available so my new roof had to be completely replaced to the tune of $42K..... Which makes me eat $22K!
(And don’t get me started on the interior damage to this all wood paneled hunting lodge I live in....or the artwork, or the Amish furniture.)
New wrinkle in my steering, I drove about 8 miles down the highway to mow a pasture and I had to constantly turn the steering wheel to the left to stay on the road. When I got home I made a video sitting still with the engine at idle I can slowly turn the wheel all day and the tires dont move but if I turn it fast the tires move, I'm trying to post the video.
Rex
Rex
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A