M4500DT 3 point linkage not working after oil change

[sanjeevtyagi]

Yes that is correct. If your linkage worked then I would think it is an airlock. I would assume all the tractors would be the same Make sure you are higher with the transmission. It needs to be pretty steep, but as soon as your high enough it should work. I tried putting oil back through the line with a curved hose. That was hopeless because I realised the oil was just flowing back in to the transmission and only a dribble would be left in the filter. New ones must self prime through the gear pump, I don't know. Or they fill it with a vacuum pump. I dont think there is anything on it in the manual. The outlet from the filter is on top of the pump, crack the three bolts if you need to for it to bleed. Good luck and let me know how it goes.

Thanks a tonne for your help i will update you

 

[Fishfarmer]

Thanks a tonne for your help i will update you

Hi did the procedure not work for your linkage?

 

[sanjeevtyagi]

I am still battling to start this tractor , after i got it repaired i think the starter died on me, it just clicks and doesn't wanna start the engine , looks like i will have to replace this starter before i can try the backing up to hill procedure.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I am still battling to start this tractor , after i got it repaired i think the starter died on me, it just clicks and doesn't wanna start the engine , looks like i will have to replace this starter before i can try the backing up to hill procedure.

Very unlikely the starter!
Very likely battery cables, battery cable connections (either cable, either end) or battery.

 

[Fishfarmer]

Very unlikely the starter!
Very likely battery cables, battery cable connections (either cable, either end) or battery.

Wolfman has good advice check all terminals are clean, if you have a meter then check voltage, or better battery load tester. Battery can show full voltage and still be stuffed, it needs load test to eliminate it or use another good battery, does the solenoid get hot or just nothing except the solenoid engaging ? You can also bypass bad connections and you can jump it with a screwdriver, but the battery has to be full so you eliminate the simple things first.

 

[sanjeevtyagi]

Wolfman has good advice check all terminals are clean, if you have a meter then check voltage, or better battery load tester. Battery can show full voltage and still be stuffed, it needs load test to eliminate it or use another good battery, does the solenoid get hot or just nothing except the solenoid engaging ? You can also bypass bad connections and you can jump it with a screwdriver, but the battery has to be full so you eliminate the simple things first.

Thanks for the quick advice , i have tried the following
1. Voltage check at Battery. Voltage check at the Starter(not under load)
2. Put a jump starter goloo4000 at the starter
3. tried jumping the starter with a screwdriver method , still clicks

What i have not done
1.Clean the cables
2.Do the voltage check under load ( Difficult to see the multimeter while also cranking the start switch)

I was assuming if i have a jump starter at the starter that should supply enough Amps directly to if i shorted the Starter terminal to Hot terminals it should roll and make the spinning , but even then it only clicks with Jump starter on it.

Could it still be corroded connections on cables or something i am missing in my analysis ?

 

[JohnDB]

...
3. tried jumping the starter with a screwdriver method , still clicks
...

Mine had that and it turned out that the brushes were shagged. But better to do the other checks first.
The recommended brush lengths in some manuals are wrong.
Bonus finding on dismantling the starter: the steel ball in the "magnet switch" was missing, easily replaced.

 

[Fishfarmer]

Okay, you need to know the battery is a good battery first, charge it or use another battery. Battery needs a load test not voltage tester to see if a cell is gone or it needs charge. What is the voltage across the battery terminals.? A good one should be about 12.6-12.7 volts. You said you havent cleaned terminal connections so you do as Wolfman says to clean all terminals, this means the inside the round terminal holders of the battery leads and the lead battery posts as well. If there is corrosion on them hot water and then sandpaper them, If they are the type with bolts through the battery posts then take them off and clean them. Take the nuts off the starter and clean the lugs going to it and the solenoid, also the nuts and any washers should be cleaned with emery paper or wire brush.

Then tighten firmly but not overtight. If there is an earth clean it also. I dont think there is an earth, I think the starter motor earths at the casing but I will check mine tomorrow. Does anything get hot or warm when you are trying to crank it? Do all this first, If there is no crank then it might be the solenoid connections or the starter, but since you had this overhauled its probably a bad connection or a terminal has some paint on it or something. Dont start ripping apart the starter until you are sure everything has been check for conductivity load test and voltage. This is a simple thing to check properly first. You should be able to see volt meter when you are doing screwdriver crank. But voltmeter only tells you so much, battery load test or another battery to try first.

P.S. I didn't read that you had a jump starter booster. These dont always work as they rely on good connections also. You need to be sure the jumper has a full battery also. I will look at my tractor tomorrow for you and send you some pictures of the starting system

 

[Fishfarmer]

Mine had that and it turned out that the brushes were shagged. But better to do the other checks first.
The recommended brush lengths in some manuals are wrong.
Bonus finding on dismantling the starter: the steel ball in the "magnet switch" was missing, easily replaced.

JohnDb is a bit of an expert with these tractors. He won't like me saying that but he has helped me a great deal in the past

 

[JohnDB]

JohnDb is a bit of an expert with these tractors. He won't like me saying that but he has helped me a great deal in the past

Thanks, but really I only know a bit about mine, this forum has been an invaluable source of info and you have contributed a lot too.

 

[Fishfarmer]

Thanks, but really I only know a bit about mine, this forum has been an invaluable source of info and you have contributed a lot too.

Thanks JohnDB, agreed about how good and helpful people are to share information on this forum. Our model of tractor must be so rare they belong in museums, either that or hardly any ever break down