I would like to lower the Roll Bar and Canopy Shade approximately 12" to 15" as I can not get the Tractor in my Barn and am wondering if anyone has ever done that without impacting the safety measures of the Roll Bar. I am thinking of cutting the support bracket down and reattaching. Has anyone ever attempted to do that and do you have any suggestions on how to accomplish this?
Lowering the Roll Bar and Canopy Shade on a Kubota Tractor
- Thread starter WineCountrySB
- Start date
Jchonline
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
If you lower the roll bar, it will not protect you in a roll. The height/width of the roll bar calculated with the dimensions of the tractor so it will protect the operator if the machine rolls. If you lower it, then you better be a REALLY SHORT person or your head will hit the dirt before the roll bar does.
So the answer is no. However if you have a hinge point that allows the roll bar to be laid down when stowed then that should be fine. Just remember to put it down when pulling in (easier said than done) and back up after you pull out.
So the answer is no. However if you have a hinge point that allows the roll bar to be laid down when stowed then that should be fine. Just remember to put it down when pulling in (easier said than done) and back up after you pull out.
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Thank you. I realize that and that is why I was inquiring about safe ways to accomplish what I would like to do. I have a good friend who is a certified welder and in looking at the downward and upward support posts connected by the connection bracket, if we cut the top bracket 7 inches and the lower bracket 7 inches and then reconnect with the manufacturer bracket as originally done, then that would provide 14 inches of additional clearance to allow me to pull into my barn. Does that sound feasible without jeopardizing the integrity of the roll bar safety? Lowering it 14 inches will still provide about 6 inches of safety above the top of my head while operating.
Nobody here can tell if it will be safe or not. We have to assume that Kubota tests their design.
If I was you, I’d switch to a removable canopy or make removable canopy mounts. Then, you can fold the ROPS bar down safely as it is designed.
If I was you, I’d switch to a removable canopy or make removable canopy mounts. Then, you can fold the ROPS bar down safely as it is designed.
Thank You. I love the oversized canopy because where I am it is hot and sunny and I am using it during the day in most situations. That is why I am looking for a workable solution that does not jeopardize the integrity of the safety measures in place. Thanks for your suggestions. I will look into it.
Jchonline
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
The simple answer is make sure the roll bar retains the same strength and dimensions as the original manufacturer provided it in. That means no drilling holes in the bar, not changing the dimensions. If it doesnt have a hinge, check with Kubota to see if they have one. I rode around on Ford, Belarus, and Farmall tractors for years and we never had roll bars...all still alive. However things are different today with our wonderful legal system. Corps are looking for anyway to absolve themselves from liability.
If you are going to mess with it (drill holes, etc) , then you might as well just take it off. Kubota will void warranty and liability if you change it in any way.
So yes we dont know if it will be safe, but we do know Kubota will say it isnt if you alter it. I guess thats what you have to work out.
i can describe how I did mine (at my own risk) if there is such a thing. For me, there is more danger/damage of hitting tree limbs with ROPS up then a roll over. Hitting a tree limb with the ROPS, and the tractor bucking unexpectedly is an awakening experience.
L4240 tractor with factory ROPS which has a hinge joint to fold down the upper portion of the ROPS. Made the frame from a 9' umbrella the wind destroyed. The frame metal is 1 1/4" x 3/8 (or so). About 14-15" from the back welded 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" (I think) square tubing about 6" long to outside tubing on each side. Those two heavy brackets slide right down into the ROPS when the rubber stopper is removed.
If welding or problem solving isn't fun, purchase something like this. Easy to attach/remove, light weight, inexpensive, provides shade.
Different sizes. Different cost.
L4240 tractor with factory ROPS which has a hinge joint to fold down the upper portion of the ROPS. Made the frame from a 9' umbrella the wind destroyed. The frame metal is 1 1/4" x 3/8 (or so). About 14-15" from the back welded 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" (I think) square tubing about 6" long to outside tubing on each side. Those two heavy brackets slide right down into the ROPS when the rubber stopper is removed.
If welding or problem solving isn't fun, purchase something like this. Easy to attach/remove, light weight, inexpensive, provides shade.
Different sizes. Different cost.
Rather than make some cuts on the original roll bar for my B2650 when I built a removeable winter cab for it.....I fabricated a new top piece that fit into the original pivoting bracket fixture on the lower half. I used the same 1.5" x 3" rectangular tubing. I lowered the total height by a few inches....but it was more to have the top cross piece parallel to the ground for the winter cab build. (and it also allowed for mounted cab lights to clear the OH door on the shop.)
The original top ROPS piece sits unaltered in the shed and will go back on the tractor if it's ever sold. I trust my homemade top piece just as much as the original piece and it stays on the tractor. Haven't had the need to drill or weld to it yet....but wouldn't hesitate to do so if I wanted to mount some brackets, etc. to it. It would actually have been nicer to have made it a couple of inches shorter in height.
Much easier (and cheaper) to make your own top half to your specs than have to replace an original roll bar for some reason in the future.
I cut mine down for the same reason as the op
It just clears my garage door now. fwiw I'm no welder. A friend who is did the cutting / welding.
It just clears my garage door now. fwiw I'm no welder. A friend who is did the cutting / welding.
I guess it's possible that you aren't sacrificing safety by changing the dimensions of the ROPS bar. But, for that to be true, you have to believe that either Kubota isn't aware of the height of garages or picked an arbitrary height.
I have to believe the height is important in case you roll, or roll over and over. Hey, but maybe if you are really short it won't matter. Considering that the ROPS is the biggest safety measure we have in case we roll, or roll over and over, it seems foolhardy to me to modify it.
I have to believe the height is important in case you roll, or roll over and over. Hey, but maybe if you are really short it won't matter. Considering that the ROPS is the biggest safety measure we have in case we roll, or roll over and over, it seems foolhardy to me to modify it.
Many of these types of problems would be solved if all law schools were shut down for at least 10 years, well maybe 20.
In this case, I don't think the lawyers are the problem. It's easy to find the stats on how much ROPS helps in the case of rollovers. Maybe you don't know of anyone who rolled over without ROPS who died. Many of us do.
the height of the roll bar is likely set where it is IOT prevent the tractor from going all the way belly up. when you see videos and pictures online of roll overs with ROPS it seems as though most of them just laid down on their side. shortening may prevent it from keeping the tractor from just landing on its side.
Modifying your ROPS is your choice, but if you ever decide to trade that tractor in, a dealer will need to discount your tractor for the cost of replacing the whole ROPS bar (upper & lower). He can't sell it if it's modified. Many people do modify their ROPS. Some poorly. They are designed to protect you. Any modification to it diminishes it's ability to do it's job. On the other hand, a shortened ROPS in the upright position is most likely better than a folded down ROPS during a roll over.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I modified my ROPS to get into garage with <7' door opening.
Removed top section of ROPS, put into back room of garage.
Built a custom top section 'canopy' with roof and lights. Clears garage by 1".
Also removed seatbelt even though the new build is as strong as the OEM ROPS.
Best of both Worlds. Now I can get in out of garage,have sunshade AND when I give awa the BX23S, new owner has option to put it back 'factory original'.
Removed top section of ROPS, put into back room of garage.
Built a custom top section 'canopy' with roof and lights. Clears garage by 1".
Also removed seatbelt even though the new build is as strong as the OEM ROPS.
Best of both Worlds. Now I can get in out of garage,have sunshade AND when I give awa the BX23S, new owner has option to put it back 'factory original'.
Sounds like a most excellent excuse to build a mancave with a taller garage door 
Sounds like a most excellent excuse to build a mancave with a taller garage door
I don't know Kubota's thoughts exactly, but I'd bet that the ROPS height is chosen to keep the driver's head off the ground when the tractor is belly-up. Draw a line (or place a long, straight board) from the top of the ROPS to the front of the hood/grill guard. If a seated driver's head is above that line, the ROPS is too short.
That's one of the factors in drives roll cage design in race cars. Tall drivers need taller cages. You don't want your head to be the first thing to hit the ground in a rollover.
Biker1mike
Well-known member
Equipment
B6200, Kubota 2030 Front Blade, King Cutter 60" finishing deck
The ROPS is NOT a roll bar. It is not intended to protect your head either. It is designed to stop the tractor from rolling over more than 90 degrees ( on it's side ).
I assume they are over engineered, but once you shorten it you change the physics and the ROPS may not stop the tractor from going greasy side up.
Death by roll over is not rare around here. Every couple of years we hear of one. Mostly older units and around culverts and ditches.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
re: The ROPS is NOT a roll bar
I respectfully disagree.ROPS is Roll Over Protection System, keyword is Roll, same word as in Roll Bar. If 'they' don't think it's the same, then 'they' could have used 1,000s of other words in the English language to name it. Both are items that are designed to limit the travel of an object from going past a desired amount of motion. Neigther is a 'safety cage' or 'roll cage' as seen in say race cars.
I remember when JEEPs had roll bars, also know when 'they' renamed them to 'light bars', to avoid lawsuits.
I respectfully disagree.ROPS is Roll Over Protection System, keyword is Roll, same word as in Roll Bar. If 'they' don't think it's the same, then 'they' could have used 1,000s of other words in the English language to name it. Both are items that are designed to limit the travel of an object from going past a desired amount of motion. Neigther is a 'safety cage' or 'roll cage' as seen in say race cars.
I remember when JEEPs had roll bars, also know when 'they' renamed them to 'light bars', to avoid lawsuits.