Lots of Noise Front of Engine No pressue to bucket

Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
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Well I just removed the pump and started the engine. I can hardly believe the pump made that much noise but it did.....
Just don't run it with that extended shaft sticking out there It wouldn't take much for that being unsupported on the other end by the pump to swing out of balance. Even a little and compounding the balance more to end up destroying itself and things around it.

Bill
 

woodman55

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L6060HSTC, RTV 1100
May 15, 2022
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To help find a pump,(if needed) get a set of calipers and measure the pump shaft diameter, bolt hole width and diameter, and the diameter of the round part of the pump mounting face. You will also need the shaft dia, to replace the coupling.

I am not a fan of that ridged coupling, a lovejoy would be a better setup, but I am not sure you have room for it.
 

TheOldHokie

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To help find a pump,(if needed) get a set of calipers and measure the pump shaft diameter, bolt hole width and diameter, and the diameter of the round part of the pump mounting face. You will also need the shaft dia, to replace the coupling.

I am not a fan of that ridged coupling, a lovejoy would be a better setup, but I am not sure you have room for it.
I would not worry about that old pump or shaft. It looks like a Webster YC - standard SAE-A two bolt flange. You can buy a new SAE-A pump for $140 (see pictures).

I am not a fan of Lovejoy couplings in this application, A chain coupler is dirt cheap, handles much higher horsepower, lasts much longer, and can tolerate .2" in a foot of angular misalignment. A single coupler is pretty much standard design for these drives and you should be able to get way less than .2" of misalignment. But they are cheap enough you can put one in each end if you want and do away with the rigid coupler on the pump.

You can use any size driveshaft you want by matching the couplers to the end points. A 3/4" shaft is more than adequate.

I have put a lot of these type drives on old Ford tractors using nothing but a minimally flexible hub on the crankshaft pulley

Dan
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rbargeron

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The pump will turn using a 1/2" electric drill - use a 3/8" socket extension or similar, using a socket on the pump shaft with something in the keyway to make it drive. The system is open-center so when it starts to turn there should be very little resistance. If that seems to work ok without noise the pump is probably fine. Bungee a valve handle to move the bucket - if it moves without noise that's a good sign the problem is in the drive, not the pump.

If you want to get the 2-row chain coupling apart, look for its removable connecting clip
master link.jpg (may be on the engine side out of view).
 
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