Lost loader lift

[Workerbee]

I went to use the L3240 a couple days ago.

The loader lift rams would not raise but would go down easily, like in float. The bucket tilt rams functioned fine.

The last time I had used it, about 3-4 weeks ago, the lift had seemed slow.

i checked the hydraulic oil and added 2 gallons super udt to get it between the hash marks. Then it still wouldnt lift, so reved it up and it would lift very slow. Id let it down and up very slow a couple times, hoping it was just air to work out, but that didn’t change anything. At idle there is no lift at all.

What do you think is going on with this?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Disconnect and reconnect the quick disconnects on the hydraulic lines!
If that doesn't work swap the roll lines for the lift lines if it lifts then you have a coupler issue.
If it doesn't you'll need to swap out the valve side of the couplings, just swap one lift for one roll.
If that doesn't fix it, you have a blow cylinder.

It's almost always the coupler isn't fully seated and opening.

 

[Workerbee]

Thank you Sir, I will give those recomendations a go, next time I get over that way. It may be 2 weeks before Im able. I will report back on the results.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I went to use the L3240 a couple days ago.

The loader lift rams would not raise but would go down easily, like in float. The bucket tilt rams functioned fine.

The last time I had used it, about 3-4 weeks ago, the lift had seemed slow.

i checked the hydraulic oil and added 2 gallons super udt to get it between the hash marks. Then it still wouldnt lift, so reved it up and it would lift very slow. Id let it down and up very slow a couple times, hoping it was just air to work out, but that didn’t change anything. At idle there is no lift at all.

What do you think is going on with this?

Check the position of the 3pt lift control. If the lift function works with the 3pt lowered but not when its raised the 3pt feedback linkage needs to be adjusted.

Dan

 

[Workerbee]

Theres a blower on the 3-point and that goes up and down fine. It doesnt seem to matter whether thats in the up or the down position, the loader acts the same.

 

[Workerbee]

I got here today and those couplers sure came apart hard. No rust or anything, just very dry I imagine. Theyre oiled up now. The four lines with couplers are situated in a square pattern and are color coded. Blue at 10 oclock White at 2 oclock Yellow at 4 oclock and Red at 8 oclock.
I first tried just reattaching, and everything was as before. No lift, not even with full throttle now.
I next switched the blue with the white and the red with the yellow. Now I have lift but only lift. It will not go down.
Then I tried switching the blue with the red and the white with the yellow. Same thing, the lift is there but it wont cone down.
Does this point to changing out to new couplers or what now?

 

[TheOldHokie]

I got here today and those couplers sure came apart hard. No rust or anything, just very dry I imagine. Theyre oiled up now. The four lines with couplers are situated in a square pattern and are color coded. Blue at 10 oclock White at 2 oclock Yellow at 4 oclock and Red at 8 oclock.
I first tried just reattaching, and everything was as before. No lift, not even with full throttle now.
I next switched the blue with the white and the red with the yellow. Now I have lift but only lift. It will not go down.
Then I tried switching the blue with the red and the white with the yellow. Same thing, the lift is there but it wont cone down.
Does this point to changing out to new couplers or what now?

All it does is confuse me. I suggest you identify which function corresponds with the colors.

Dam

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you swapped the curl for the lift lines then yes, you more than likely have a bad quick disconnect.

 

[Workerbee]

Ok, I will try to get those identified. Meanwhile a couple questions until I get there again with a new coupler.
Both ways I tried, the lift rams problem simply reversed from not lifting to not lowering. Im not real experienced with hydraulic repair, but it has me wondering if its in the valve?
How does a coupler fail? The buttons on both sides of each coupler press in by finger pressure and pop right back when finger is released. Thats after pressure is relieved.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ok, I will try to get those identified. Meanwhile a couple questions until I get there again with a new coupler.
Both ways I tried, the lift rams problem simply reversed from not lifting to not lowering. Im not real experienced with hydraulic repair, but it has me wondering if its in the valve?
How does a coupler fail? The buttons on both sides of each coupler press in by finger pressure and pop right back when finger is released. Thats after pressure is relieved.

There are mutiple ways you can have this problem - couplers are just one.

Guessing is not a reliable diagnostic technique. The most reliable way to diagnose your problem is to identify which couplers control the lift and bucket functions. Then you can begin to experiment with the individual connections to see if the problrm is a specific coupler or something else.

Dan

 

[Workerbee]

By tracing the lines to the lift arm ram I figured the blue and red ran the lift arms so swapped the blue with white and the red with yellow. It transferred the lift function to the curl positions on the joystick, but like I said, it reversed the issue. Instead of no lift, now it had no lower.

 

[jimh406]

If it was that low on hydraulic fluid, it may have air in the cylinders and the system may need to be bled.

Be careful though, the pressure can shoot hydraulic fluid under your skin. There are probably some "how to" videos on YouTube or posts here.

 

[TheOldHokie]

By tracing the lines to the lift arm ram I figured the blue and red ran the lift arms so swapped the blue with white and the red with yellow. It transferred the lift function to the curl positions on the joystick, but like I said, it reversed the issue. Instead of no lift, now it had no lower.

Well that is more informative. Put it back as it was. With the loader resting on the ground remove the female coupler on the rod end lift hose and put the end of the hose in a clean bucket. Start the tractor and try to raise the loader. If the lift circuit is working the loader should raise and force oil out of the rod end hose.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

If it was that low on hydraulic fluid, it may have air in the cylinders and the system may need to be bled.

Not in a million years.

Dan

 

[Workerbee]

I’ll give that a try next time out there. I wish it was closer, but its an hour away, and a kubota dealer for parts is another hour. I dont get there all that often.

 

[Workerbee]

And yes Dan, the loader on the ground is the only way I can get the couplers off. The pressure really binds them up. I have to move the joystick back and forth many times with the engine off to relieve that.

 

[TheOldHokie]

And yes Dan, the loader on the ground is the only way I can get the couplers off. The pressure really binds them up. I have to move the joystick back and forth many times with the engine off to relieve that.

Understood. Your bucket circuit is fine - leave it alone and concentrate on the lift circuit.

Once you unscrew the female coupler on the rod end lift hose the rod end of both lift cylinders are open to atmosphere and cannot pressurize. If you start the tractor and move the joystick to the lift position both lift cylinders are free to extend.

If the loader does not raise and force oil out of the rid end hose there is no oil entering the base end of the cylinders and the base end male/female coupler pair is the primary suspect.

If it does raise forcing oil out of the rod end hose it indicates the rod end coupler pair or something down stream in the power beyond circuit is obstructing the exhaust oil on the rod end and hydraulically locking the cylinders.

Simple as that.

Dan

 

[Workerbee]

Thank you for that detailed description Dan. One thought and question thats nagging me though, is could it be possible the inner seal on one lift cylinder has blown out and creating the back pressure?
When I first encountered the problem a couple weeks ago, it would lift very slowly at full throttle, no lift at anything less than full. Now yesterday, before switching hoses I tried to lift the bucket to be able to move the tractor out of the shed. It wouldnt lift, no matter what tge engine speed was.

 

[TheOldHokie]

⁰

Thank you for that detailed description Dan. One thought and question thats nagging me though, is could it be possible the inner seal on one lift cylinder has blown out and creating the back pressure?
When I first encountered the problem a couple weeks ago, it would lift very slowly at full throttle, no lift at anything less than full. Now yesterday, before switching hoses I tried to lift the bucket to be able to move the tractor out of the shed. It wouldnt lift, no matter what tge engine speed

Thd cylinder will work regardless of the condition of the seal. You could take it completely out and it would still lift.

Dan

 

[Workerbee]

Good news today! I went over there and my son drove there as well. We went through everything and switched couplers around to see what we could figure out. It boiled down to tge valve so we pulled the rear wheel and the cover from the inner fender to have a look. It turned out the bolt holding the pivot was loose. Tightened that up and everythings fine again!
All your good advice is much appreciated, thank you!