Looking for some beginner tractor advice (B/LX + implements)

[rcsracing]

First post on this forum. I'm closing on a home in NE Ohio in about 6 weeks - 10 acres, 3.5-4acres finish mowed, rest is driveway, home, outbuildings, and woods. Current retired owners used a couple riding mowers for the lawn and a Kubota B2620 tractor with a ton of implements, including a front mount snow blower. None of those tools are for sale, so my plan is to get a Zero Turn Mower asap, and order/wait in line for a tractor as it's not quite as time sensitive as a mower in the spring.

Uses I see for the tractor:
- Dragging downed trees for firewood. Property is mostly flat, but that's also coming from a current PA resident.
- Moving bucked logs (not sure of term). Home has a wood stove & propane furnace. 2 outbuildings (combined 3000 sq ft) use wood heat exclusively. I'll reduce the need for wood, but it's still a good option as a supplement.
- Gathering and moving brush.
- Driveway maintenance - currently about 800 feet of driveway to the state road. General shaping over time + fresh gravel distribution.
- Driveway addition - add 200 feet of driveway, perpendicular to current driveway, to reach one outbuilding. Would be cutting in on existing lawn, no trees or anything.
- Dealing with snow. Current owner said blade is fine most years, but this year it hasn't been, and they're scheduled for another 7-12" on top of the 12" that was there this weekend when i visited.
- Moving/lifting stuff - deliveries to the outbuildings, garage items, etc. Moving flat/open trailer around.

So, for the tractor side, I think I'm narrowing down to: B2601, LX2610, and LX3310.

BX - too small for that stuff - it can be done, people do it, but buying new, it seems to make sense to move up in size.
B2601 - similar to what current owner had.
LX2610 - increased loader/pallet capacity. Maybe a little more "oomph" with the heavier tractor for the plowing/blading (tbd) and dragging.
LX3310 - From what I understand just a HP bump isn't that noticeable more most tasks. I wasn't sure if the move from 19.5-27 PTO HP would be a big benefit.

I'll start with this tractor post. After solving that, I can move on to initial implements. Thank you all of the posts on the forum - I've spent a ton of time reading over the past few weeks as well as burning countless hours on Youtube (OWTM, GP Outdoors, Messicks, TTWT, etc).

-Rick

 

[Roadworthy]

If you plan to mow with a zero turn and not the tractor the only remaining reason I see for the front PTO would be a snow thrower or blower. That can be had on the B series or the LX series. If more weight is desired you can have the tires filled or add a weight box. Not living in northwestern PA any more my worries about snow are a thing of the past. I can move all the snow I get with my L2501 and the loader but it's been awhile since I've seen over eighteen inches.

 

[Njtool]

I have an LX2610 cab. I do a lot of land clearing, firewood, brush hogging, etc. I love the cab. Especially in the snow. I stay warm and dry when I plow.

And when it’s 95 degrees out, I get in my tractor with AC and find something productive to do.

The LX has done everything I’ve asked it to do, and more.

Just my opinion.

 

[RalphVa]

I've owned a Gravely, 18.5 hp JD, two 24.5 hp JDs and just bought a B2601 (wanted only a 2301 but 2601 is all the dealer had who also had FELs). The B would do all of your chores with a FEL, grapple and box blade plus back blade and FEL for snow. Only time I've ever possibly needed more hp/wt is in digging dirt and trying to dig out stumps. Otherwise, the 18.5 hp original 4wd tractor would do everything, but the 24-26 hp ones do it a bit faster. First job for the 18.5 hp tractor was to spread 22 tons of gravel.

I mostly carry stuff in the FEL (LOTS of cut up trees/limbs), bush hog areas and trails, move snow with back blade/FEL and wood chip with my tractor. When I had the 18.5 hp tractor, I hauled gobs of mulch down to it with FEL and carryall. Did plowing/raised rows with an old converted JD M (18 hp) tool bar with discs on it. Originally plowed my big garden (now abandoned) with a Gravely rotary plow and made raised rows with it.

This year, we've seen lots more snow than the last 2-4, but we've had a bunch more in past years. The FEL and back blade handle it all, just not as fast as a snow blower or big plow would. Did snow moving the first 4 years with the Gravely and its big plow. Needed chains on its turf 2wd.

If you want a cab, the LX has a nice one. Doubt you need the bigger hp one. The cab might give you a disconnect with what you're doing in good weather. Cannot have filled tires with the cab.

 

[Njtool]

I have filled tired with my cab. There is no reason you can have filled tires.

The only thing you can’t have with the cab is the larger tires

 

[i7win7]

You want to consider 3rd function on loader for grapple. Rear remote for hydraulic top link to change angle of rear blade, box blade or land plane. Loaded tires are heavy, if tire chains are a wish list item 1.5-2" wheel spacers may be needed.

3 ways to do a grapple, dedicated attachment, pallet forks with added grapple arm or a modular system from artillian.

 

[rcsracing]

i appreciate all of the feedback.
- Looks like I'm at least close on my thoughts of a LX2610 being the middle ground between too much and too little for the tasks.
- I'm leaning towards open cockpit. I have other hobbies in the garage/track and I don't expect super long days in the tractor. I probably should look at the canopy options to at least remove the sun.
- I'm not sure on chains, but I think I want the option. At least for the near future, it'll just be me at the house. Hence things like easy to use pallet forks and not getting stuck. So I'd want the wheel spacers as well.

Since we touched on it - snow removal. I know any of the options can work, it's just a matter of time/efficiency. 4 main options for a longer driveway, I think. Front/rear snowblower, front/rear blade.

• Blades - easier to light/average snow, need some snow or similar until ground is frozen (or just more careful on height).
• Front/rear - front obviously easier to see what you're doing. Any advantage to the rear blade usability? Assuming some hydraulic angling on either. I think the rear blades don't need the trip function, where the front would as it's attached to the loader arms.
• Snowblower - front also easier to use. Not sure what is needed on the tractor to allow the hydraulic chute - 3rd function?
• Push boxes ruled out due to 800 feet of mostly straight driveway vs more of a parking lot.
• Seems my sweet spot would be a front snowblower & adjustable rear blade. Any downsides to this?

 

[dirtydeed]

I think you're right in the ballpark. Any of those machines would serve you well and generally take the same sized PTO driven implements. Two of them would provide a bit more comfort when operating.

Loader bucket and rear blade will handle a good bit of snow. The rear blade will also be useful in your driveway maintenance tasks as well.

Good decision on the zero turn. I'm in the same situation, zero turns get the nod when it comes to mowing duties.

 

[rcsracing]

Which two for "extra" comfort? And I don't really enjoy mowing and have a pretty demanding (time and stress) job, so reducing mowing time is an easy decision.

 

[skeets]

OK lets look at it like this, the home owner you are buying from, has things they used, now those things were used for a reason. Ask them what THEY think you need, since they live there odds are they know, and truth be told you are comming into this blind.
Remember some places up in the flat lands up there get a ton of lake effect snow! And they have a snow blower for a reason!

A "B" will do everything you want I will however add the BX aint no lawn mower, I have pulled tons of fire wood out of the wood lot with my BX. No matter what you choose, think every job through, none of these little beasties are 988's and have to be viewed as such, they all have their limitations.

 

[rcsracing]

Skeets,

Great point. I will be with the homeowner next week for the home inspection and to go over the maintenance items - water system, wood burners, etc. I planned on discussing the tractor items with him. Sizing, implements, etc. They built the land 27 years ago, so they know quite a bit on what works and what doesn't work.

His initial take last week was that the snowblower was not used that often, but a big timesaver when it was needed. Some years 0 use, others quite a few times. Since he sold that, he's just using the bucket & rear blade, but says it's multiple times longer for work with the real snow we've had recently.

Lake effect - fully get that. They're getting 7-12" (if you can believe the forecast ) on top of the 12" they had when I visited last Saturday.

Thanks for the pointers!

 

[ve9aa]

My BX is perfect for my needs,. I am in the Maritimes (Canada) and I have a front blower, mid mount mower and rear blade. I don't have a FEL (don't need it) because I only mow 2 acres and snowblow 225' of driveway + a small parking lot. I don't have a cab, as the wee beast won't fit inside my built-in garage at the house.

*IF* I had a longer driveway and higher garage, I would 100% definitely buy an LX cab....for sure. (see GP Outdoors youtube channel. He started out with a B2601(?) and now has an LX33something cab. Perfect for what he's doing with a little comfort thrown in.

A rear snowblower is good, but I don't like to be all twisted around, and I am not as young as I used to be. Things for you to consider. If you're 25 or 30, sure, buy the rear blower (a lot cheaper) and open station.

Depends on your comfort level and how much you have to spend and how much you want to spoil yourself.
In your case, unless money was a serious issue, I probably wouldn't buy a BX (even though I love mine!)

 

[RMS]

I have really enjoyed using my LX2610 for snow removal so far. The cab is the best for being comfortable using the snow blower. My hydraulic chute controls are run off a diverter valve so no need for a 3rd function. I also like the rear blade to allow me to drag the snow away from our buildings.

 

[dirtydeed]

Which two for "extra" comfort? And I don't really enjoy mowing and have a pretty demanding (time and stress) job, so reducing mowing time is an easy decision.

Both of the LX models. If you don't need the added PTO hp, go with the non dpf 2610. There's always the SU model if mid PTO isn't needed.

 

[rcsracing]

I have really enjoyed using my LX2610 for snow removal so far. The cab is the best for being comfortable using the snow blower. My hydraulic chute controls are run off a diverter valve so no need for a 3rd function. I also like the rear blade to allow me to drag the snow away from our buildings.

I do have a few outbuildings - 2 @ 2000 sqft, 1 at 800 sqft. One of the big ones is the garage for projects, and the other is more of a raw pole building with concrete floor for dry storage. So I will need to get close to some buildings.

That's probably the biggest unknown for cab/no cab is snowblower. Looking forward 10+ years, I may really like that cab.

 

[ve9aa]

No cab=Snow pummeled into your face sometimes. No matter how careful you are.
Cab=You get to laugh at the snow hitting all the glass and roof on your cab.

I'm from the extreme NE of North America, so I am used to being pummeled with snow.
I don't like it, but I'm used to it. ;-)

Once I get tired of it, or retire, I'll build myself a low-rise cab---one that will fit inside my garage.

Words you seldom hear: "Oh, I am so sorry I bought this cab modeled tractor." "I really hate being warm in the winter and cool in the summer"

 

[Freeheeler]

So, for the tractor side, I think I'm narrowing down to: B2601, LX2610, and LX3310.

BX - too small for that stuff - it can be done, people do it, but buying new, it seems to make sense to move up in size.
B2601 - similar to what current owner had.
LX2610 - increased loader/pallet capacity. Maybe a little more "oomph" with the heavier tractor for the plowing/blading (tbd) and dragging.
LX3310 - From what I understand just a HP bump isn't that noticeable more most tasks. I wasn't sure if the move from 19.5-27 PTO HP would be a big benefit.


-Rick

Sounds like you've already answered your own question. LX2610. The next question would cab or open.
I agree 100% with the ZT for mowing. Good luck with the new land.

 

[Daferris]

Just a quick comment. I have 10 acres in Mid Michigan about 40% is wooded. I also use a zero turn for mowing my old tractor had a mid mount deck but it was in the way for loader work and too big of a pain to keep putting on and off, That's what sold me on the zero turn. The B7510 that I just sold to get an LX2610 for the following reasons... 1) I do a lot of moving dead wood to the burn pile and tend to cut the trees into 8-10' hunks the old tractor struggled to lift some of them. Also I wanted to upgrade from the pin on bucket.
2). By the time I upgraded the B7510 with a 3rd function and a SSQA I would have sunk an easy 2 grand into it. Better to put that to a bigger tractor. 3). I got the open station instead of the cab version because of the work in the woods and all the low branches. I didn't want to have a glass company on speed dial...
3. I went with the LX2610 because of it not having a DPF or EGR. Also the B2601 was too small and the Std L or the Grand L's were too big to work in the woods. I just spent last spring dealing with a Ford diesel pickup with emission issues that cost 8 grand to fix.
4). my LX2610HSD has the big R4 tires (15-19.5 Rears) loaded with beet juice (Rim Guard) with the 60" bucket on the FEL, OEM 3rd function and 2 rear remotes it weighs 3,555 pounds. I just plowed my 225' paved drive that had about 10" of snow when the snow is heavy you just need to have the FEL bucket 6" or so off the ground and the back blade will plow fine. Having tons of implements is fun but I store all my stuff inside and don't want to have to find a place to store something like a snow blower that might get used once every few years. Just mu 2 cents but it works well for me.

 

[bbxlr8]

Some great advice on this forum & in the archives - I do a lot of firewood, clearing, and trails so I will chime in. The best advice I got was to get a grapple & third fxn. I was going to hold off and "make due" and am SO GLAD I bit the bullet.

Ex) Just this afternoon, I quickly switched to the grapple and moved 5 logs (14ft x 3ft diameter) about a half-mile to my gate entrance. (I am trying to discourage ATV riders that can't read & trespass). It was slow and steady and actually very enjoyable w/ no work at all. But, I am sure they will find a way around - you know locks and signs are for honest people... The BH makes nice ditches and started on that as a secondary deterrent in a few areas until I gave up under moonlight (need those rear lights next).

FWIW: I run a woodstove 24x7 Nov - Apr. and don't like paying for oil With the tractor and grapple, I have had more impact on my property in 6 months than the previous 10 years! I like to think I am working smarter instead of harder.

Edit - any chance the PO would make a deal on the tractor & imp package. Can't hurt to ask.
That is how I got my low hours ford on my last house (it's a glorified grass cutter)

 

[rcsracing]

I tried on the tractor. He’s keeping it. He sold a chunk of the implements at a large auction on the property last year (with 3 parallel auctioneers). They had an antique shop on the property so they had a lot of stuff.

A grapple is on my must have list. Part of the reason I’m leaning toward the LX over the B01. I also want pallet forks asap.

Tomorrow is home inspection day as well as “quiz the owner” to get a bunch of information ( he offered). I know which places I want to stop at to look at zero turn options tomorrow, as this place is 2 hours from me. Then after sorting that out, I’ll get tractor shopping, which I expect to be in a week or so.