Looking for installation instructions B2650

[Bobjones]

I am installing an alternator upgrade on a B2650 HST.
I have seen 2 sheets of instructions for a B3030 but its not exactly the same.
I don't even know if they offer a alternator upgrade for the B2650.
I ordered a Denso alternator and will manufacture the rest.
Any help with instructions or links to info would make my day.

 

[AllDodge]

Here is 2 threads which installed the 40 amp ALT on your size tractor

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/349707-b2650-question-about-charging-after-4.html

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/391051-b2650-alternator-output-led-lights.html

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The right alternator will bolt right in place of the dynamo without altering much of anything.

 

[Sodark]

I upgraded my B2650 with the B7324 kit. Purchased from Coleman Equipment, but expect a 2m+ wait. The installation was pretty simple, everything needed was included. I believe it is a 40 amp? It's listed specifically for a different model, L33 I believe, and the dealer said it didn't show as being compatible with my B2650 but numerous people on this forum said it worked perfectly, which I can now also attest to.
https://www.colemanequip.com/search/B7324 /

 

[Lycomech96]

I just did an alternator upgrade on my B2601, so I don't know if the installation is the same but...get an alternator (For Kubota) on Amazon for $62.95. Order the two pin prewired plug that goes on the two terminals for about $10.00 or shop your local auto parts store for that item.
I ordered parts for an earlier B2650 which came with an alternator.
I needed a new fan belt, alternator adjusting bracket and the lower mount bolt.
Drill out the lower mounting hole on the engine to 25/64". You will need a short drill motor or an air powered drill. Start with a smaller drill bit and work your way up to the finished size.
Get the hole straight so you don't put undue strain on it when tightening up that lower bolt.
You'll also need to make a bushing with a hole the same size as the one you just drilled. Make the bushing 3/4" long so you'll have good belt alignment. Install it between the alternator and the mount hole. You could use a stack of washers here but.....

Remove the regulator. Jumper the red/white and black/red wire by installing two spade terminals on a short wire. Don't cut the plug off. That isn't necessary. Just tape it up.
Note: The black/red wire is switched power. The red/white wire goes to pin H of the safety switch relay box and brings power to that box so your operator presence control (OPC) works correctly.


I put a voltmeter on mine and just ignore the red warning light. I know there is a way to wire the warning light up but I need a better schematic diagram to figure it out. The one in the B2601 manual is useless (at least as far as the one available online is concerned.)
Connect the alternator output to the hot terminal on the starter. I got the field wire connected to the 5 amp fuse for "rear work light" which I didn't use on my tractor.

I get 14.4 volts at idle and with all my lights turned on it only drops .1 of a volt to 14.3.
I have a 25 inch light bar facing front, two 8 inch ones facing back and two small cubes style on the rear fenders. I accidentally turned on the large once during daytime and saw the dynamo wasn't able to keep up with the demand as the voltmeter showed a continuous drop to below 12.3 volts by the time I noticed it was on.
That's when I knew I needed to ditch the dynamo and regulator. The whole alternator upgrade can be done for around $110 or less.

 

[SDT]

I am installing an alternator upgrade on a B2650 HST.
I have seen 2 sheets of instructions for a B3030 but its not exactly the same.
I don't even know if they offer a alternator upgrade for the B2650.
I ordered a Denso alternator and will manufacture the rest.
Any help with instructions or links to info would make my day.

Can you not simply use the alternator intended for the cab model?

SDT

 

[Bobjones]

Can you not simply use the alternator intended for the cab model?

SDT

The cab model B2650 HSDC comes from factory with an alternator to supply all the extras like air condition fans. The B2650 HSD (roll over) no cab model comes with a Dynamo that only puts out 14.5 amps.

 

[Bobjones]

Can you not simply use the alternator intended for the cab model?

SDT

The alternator models include the rectifier/regulator in the alternator itself whilst the Dynamo model has the rectifier/regulator in the dash 2 feet away.

 

[Lycomech96]

The alternator models include the rectifier/regulator in the alternator itself whilst the Dynamo model has the rectifier/regulator in the dash 2 feet away.

Order the bracket, fan belt and lower mount bolt for the B2650HSDC cab model. Mount those up. Take the plug off the regulator and jumper the two wires I indicated above. Follow the rest of my directions above and add a voltmeter and ignore the red warning light. Then, you'll be in business.

 

[Bobjones]

I just did an alternator upgrade on my B2601, so I don't know if the installation is the same but...get an alternator (For Kubota) on Amazon for $62.95. Order the two pin prewired plug that goes on the two terminals for about $10.00 or shop your local auto parts store for that item.
I ordered parts for an earlier B2650 which came with an alternator.
I needed a new fan belt, alternator adjusting bracket and the lower mount bolt.
Drill out the lower mounting hole on the engine to 25/64". You will need a short drill motor or an air powered drill. Start with a smaller drill bit and work your way up to the finished size.
Get the hole straight so you don't put undue strain on it when tightening up that lower bolt.
You'll also need to make a bushing with a hole the same size as the one you just drilled. Make the bushing 3/4" long so you'll have good belt alignment. Install it between the alternator and the mount hole. You could use a stack of washers here but.....

Remove the regulator. Jumper the red/white and black/red wire by installing two spade terminals on a short wire. Don't cut the plug off. That isn't necessary. Just tape it up.
Note: The black/red wire is switched power. The red/white wire goes to pin H of the safety switch relay box and brings power to that box so your operator presence control (OPC) works correctly.


I put a voltmeter on mine and just ignore the red warning light. I know there is a way to wire the warning light up but I need a better schematic diagram to figure it out. The one in the B2601 manual is useless (at least as far as the one available online is concerned.)
Connect the alternator output to the hot terminal on the starter. I got the field wire connected to the 5 amp fuse for "rear work light" which I didn't use on my tractor.

I get 14.4 volts at idle and with all my lights turned on it only drops .1 of a volt to 14.3.
I have a 25 inch light bar facing front, two 8 inch ones facing back and two small cubes style on the rear fenders. I accidentally turned on the large once during daytime and saw the dynamo wasn't able to keep up with the demand as the voltmeter showed a continuous drop to below 12.3 volts by the time I noticed it was on.
That's when I knew I needed to ditch the dynamo and regulator. The whole alternator upgrade can be done for around $110 or less.

I more or less followed your alternator conversion on my B2650HSD. Got a cheap 55 amp Denso alternator machined a 3/4" shaft and made a dowel/spacer for mounting. Ordered a belt tension (stay) adjuster from Kubota. I removed the Dynamo's rectifier/regulator and used the existing pair of blue Dynamo AC current out wires and used one as Ign (yellow) (I) on the alternator T shaped connector and the other to charge signal Alternator (L) to the dash. Like you the charge light on the dash doesnt work so I put in a small voltmeter on th dash. I also had to bypass the safety PTO and the HST Pedal switch by jumping k (white) and i (Red/White) on the OPC controller. I tried to diagnose why I'd lost the start safety by checking voltage on the OPC. When I turn the key to "start" I have +12V on terminals i, a and c but not on k ??? Except for bypassing those safety switches all works O.K. 14.3 Volts. I have the shop manuel and I suspect that maybe terminal on the OPC which is connected to L on the T connector/and L on regulator (charge signal) might have something to do with it. That L terminal might act different (pos or neg)on Dynamos than Alternators???

 

[Lycomech96]

I more or less followed your alternator conversion on my B2650HSD. Got a cheap 55 amp Denso alternator machined a 3/4" shaft and made a dowel/spacer for mounting. Ordered a belt tension (stay) adjuster from Kubota. I removed the Dynamo's rectifier/regulator and used the existing pair of blue Dynamo AC current out wires and used one as Ign (yellow) (I) on the alternator T shaped connector and the other to charge signal Alternator (L) to the dash. Like you the charge light on the dash doesnt work so I put in a small voltmeter on th dash. I also had to bypass the safety PTO and the HST Pedal switch by jumping k (white) and i (Red/White) on the OPC controller. I tried to diagnose why I'd lost the start safety by checking voltage on the OPC. When I turn the key to "start" I have +12V on terminals i, a and c but not on k ??? Except for bypassing those safety switches all works O.K. 14.3 Volts. I have the shop manuel and I suspect that maybe terminal on the OPC which is connected to L on the T connector/and L on regulator (charge signal) might have something to do with it. That L terminal might act different (pos or neg)on Dynamos than Alternators???

Did you put a jumper wire to connect the red/black and red/white wire terminals in the 6 pin regulator plug? That brings power to pin H in the OPC box.
There is no Pin N on my control box which has 10 wires. When any safety switches complete a circuit it sends power to the stop switch relay and solenoid through pin J.