Looking for an easy access for jump starting and charging

[NorthwoodsLife]

There no way that $5.95 connector in post #14 is good for any winch let alone 'jumping' any tractor.
Might be good for 10 amps ?? Most battery 'tenders' / maintainers only put out 2-5 amps.

That is for a trickle charger. I use Battery Tender brand.

To the OP: Why are you having to jump start your tractor frequently?....
And this thread's Title... "Easy access for jump starting and charging", Are two different issues.
Solve the issue with the battery... Battery Tender or similar.
Jump Starting should be a last ditch effort, NOT a planned program. Batteries have been known to explode in a jump situation. Just sayin'.
If your tractor sits in a field with no AC power nearby, get a solar powered battery trickler.

 

[DustyRusty]

I was thinking that he wanted this for jump-starting other vehicles and looking for an easy method to connect to the tractor's electrical system.

 

[Flintknapper]

I was thinking that he wanted this for jump-starting other vehicles and looking for an easy method to connect to the tractor's electrical system.

Similar to the OP....accessing the battery on my tractor is something less than convenient. While I keep my battery charged and in good shape.... should I ever need to 'jump' it, I wanted that procedure to be a bit easier.

To that end....I simply added remote jumper posts to a spot on the front of the tractor where I can get to it, but it is not easily damaged by brush/objects.

 

[DustyRusty]

Is that something that you made up or is it commercially available? If it was purchased, where did you get it from?
thanks

 

[TheOldHokie]

Is that something that you made up or is it commercially available? If it was purchased, where did you get it from?
thanks

Look familiar?

American Autowire 500931 American Autowire External Battery Jumper Blocks | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - American Autowire External Battery Jumper Blocks with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Remote Battery Jumper Terminals at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Dan

 

[GreensvilleJay]

intersting jumper block , clicked on the link ,NO mention of current capacity or voltage rating, at least not that I could see. Does anyone have those specs ?? Really is it important. While they 'look beefy', might only be good for 100-125 amps ??
I know Anderson Powerpole have specs....

 

[TheOldHokie]

intersting jumper block , clicked on the link ,NO mention of current capacity or voltage rating, at least not that I could see. Does anyone have those specs ?? Really is it important. While they 'look beefy', might only be good for 100-125 amps ??
I know Anderson Powerpole have specs....

Jeeez....

Its a 3/8" threaded brass stud on one end of an even larger jump post - big as or bigger than those on most starters and its sold for 12v cars and trucks.

Dan

 

[GreensvilleJay]

3/8" spec isn't on the website page, someone posted that in another post.
Sure a 3/8" stud should handle 400 amps, but my comment is that the 'specs' should be on the datasheet.
neighbour's ride has 2 , 1000CCA batteries in parallel so even 3/8 may not pass them amps.

 

[lynnmor]

Since jumper cables will have only small points of contact, amp rating is of little value.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

If you truly believe that, then toss away your jumper cables and make jumper cables from 20ga wire and #63 Muller alli clips.

 

[lynnmor]

If you truly believe that, then toss away your jumper cables and make jumper cables from 20ga wire and #63 Muller alli clips.

If you truly believe that you can get full amperage thru small points of contact, then buy the most expensive parts you can find.

Personally I made my own connections with copper bar, heavy cable and plumbing parts.

 

[Vigo]

So.. I teach automotive electrical classes, even have a hybrid/EV certification etc etc.

Things i would add:

• I like the large Anderson connectors idea the best, including just getting a good set of jumper cables and splitting them somewhere in the middle with same large Andersons so that you could continue to use them 'as is' or split them and plug one side to the tractor so you could jump start it or something else with the tractor. Caveat is: making those terminal ends on the big Anderson. IF you don't have a way to make a decent crimp or solder connection on something that large, you may be better off using one of the 'jump post' methods which come with pre-terminated cables so you bypass the chance of making a crappy termination into the big anderson terminals. If you see yourself making more large connections in the future it's probably worth it to put yourself through the learning curve of making the big Andersons and buying whatever you need to do that.
• IF you end up buying something which includes wire/cable, make sure it is at least 2ga wire, and bigger is better. This isn't truly 'necessary' (think of how many times some cheesy 6-10ga jumper cables HAVE successfully jump started cars!) but it's not worth going through the effort of installing something subpar. In an ideal scenario your 'weakest link' should not be the parts you installed on your tractor, but the contact between the large jumper cable clamps and whatever they are clamping to. I have watched current with a clamp meter while messing around with the clamp connection and it is your main choke point, or should be!
• If you don't want to mess with making big high-current connections, the other option is to permanently install a battery maintainer and only have an AC plug (technically a 'nema 5-15 receptacle' lol) hanging off the tractor somewhere. Low current connections are nowhere near as sensitive to the quality of the connection. Anyone who has ever run a hand crimper, even poorly, can make a connection that will function well under the <500ma a battery maintainer is likely to flow. This option is by far the physically easiest but it doesn't give you immediate results (if battery were dead it would take the maintainer over a whole day to charge it enough for the tractor to start) and doesn't let you jump anything ELSE, but it's.. the easiest and probably cheapest option.