Looking for advices for installing cedar posts

[awesome]

I need to install about 10 cedar posts of 8" diameter. The soil here is rather rocky, so I think I would be wasting my money if I rented a gas powered post hole digger.I'm thinking I can just use my BH to dig 3' deep holes and then put a 10" sonotube in the ground.

How tricky is it going to be to keep the sonotube straight and try to compact the soil around it just by pounding with the BH bucket? Does that sound like a bad plan?

Then I'm thinking I could just put the cedar posts in the sonotube and fill with concrete or maybe just gravel.

I'm planning on installing the sonotubes before winter, and the cedard posts after winter. So winter will compact the soil around the sonotube and I could do some adjustments after thaw.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

NOT tricky, you just have a person and a level ,holding the tube as you backfill.
Guy up the road did 25 that way last month, though 4' deep.
You have the helper tamp every other dump of refill, then water the perimeter, then topup the refill.
Also....put covers over the sonotubes to keep the water out.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

why would sonotubes be used?

around these parts when putting in post frame barns and storage sheds we simply make the hole, place the post and back fill with whatever is the commonly available bedding stone.

Stone (gravel) is easy, cheap, sets well, makes for great drainage and best of all EASY!! forms to any shaped whole left behind after digging, no packing needed, no need to keep tubes vertical, etc...

Pouring in 3/4" - 1" or similar reasonably clean stone is super easy and cheap. Hard to screw up is what I like.

cheers!!

 

[awesome]

why would sonotubes be used?

around these parts when putting in post frame barns and storage sheds we simply make the hole, place the post and back fill with whatever is the commonly available bedding stone.

Stone (gravel) is easy, cheap, sets well, makes for great drainage and best of all EASY!! forms to any shaped whole left behind after digging, no packing needed, no need to keep tubes vertical, etc...

Pouring in 3/4" - 1" or similar reasonably clean stone is super easy and cheap. Hard to screw up is what I like.

cheers!!

But wont the post move? It sounds like it would be loose

 

[biketopia]

What will these cedar posts be holding up? Sono tubes would be great if you wanted to fill with gravel and concrete and take the time to level them all to each other and then you can set anchors for your posts and start building on a level foundation. If you're setting the posts in the ground the less amount of disturbance the better, fill with gravel, maybe half a bag of quickcrete and let it go. Would renting a 3 point auger get the job done?

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

But wont the post move? It sounds like it would be loose

all I know is we live in a pretty high water table area with winter frost often down to 8 feet.

for ever all builders have done around here is dig a hole (we are not rocky so its usually drilled) placing couple inches of gravel on the bottom for drainage, drop in a post (usually 8x8 laminated PWF posts for post barns so 4 2x8's nailed together) then fill holes with gravel. Little or no packing usually just heaped a few inches around post to allow for some settling. Keeps posts from rotting as much as well as gravel drains better than compacted soil

is this perfect solution?? probably not but quick, easy and proven over time around these parts.

just throwing out an idea.

 

[awesome]

Ok, that sounds good. The posts are only used for a deer fence around my garden. So it'll be holding up a light net.

So it sounds like this job would be easily done with a backhoe.

 

[Moose7060]

Ok, that sounds good. The posts are only used for a deer fence around my garden. So it'll be holding up a light net.

So it sounds like this job would be easily done with a backhoe.

If it is just around your garden, have you considered t-posts every 10 feet with 6 or 8 ft farm & field wire fencing? Works greats around my small orchard to keep moose and deer away in the winter and then I take it down in the spring.

 

[awesome]

If it is just around your garden, have you considered t-posts every 10 feet with 6 or 8 ft farm & field wire fencing? Works greats around my small orchard to keep moose and deer away in the winter and then I take it down in the spring.

I did. But I have cedar posts already. Cheaper this way. I also like the looks of it. It looks more permanent and farm-like

 

[Russell King]

Your concrete will make the post rot out faster unless you take time to put a few inches of gravel below and up the bottom of the post.

The post will shrink (rot) back away from the concrete and become loose inside the concrete.

Then you have to dig out the concrete to replace the post.

You might be better off avoiding the concrete and just using the soil from the hole or gravel that can pack tight (angular not round).

You might consider using a post pounder to drive the posts into the ground (Best way I think).

There is also packets of expanding foam that can be used in place of concrete. I think the cost is comparable to concrete now but much easier and faster than concrete.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You might consider using a post pounder to drive the posts into the ground (Best way I think).

You can't / shouldn't use a post ponder on cedar posts, they are too soft.

 

[biketopia]

For the intended use of the posts, digging the hole and backfilling will work great, no need to over complicate it. A little bit of gravel at the bottom and around the post to help with drainage then fill and tamp. While slower, using the round back portion of digging bar will give you excellent compaction. But your foot and the backhoe will do just fine for a fence.

 

[Russell King]

You can't / shouldn't use a post ponder on cedar posts, they are too soft.

I forget that Texas “cedar” is not the same as thr real eastern or western cedar.

Ours is really a juniper and pretty strong. But it is called cedar by everyone here. I forgot the other is like the split rail fence I have and it is soft wood.

Thank you for correcting my mistake.