looking for a plow

[Colb56]

OK like I said I dont know where you are in PA, I would track down the county Ag person. look up Penn State Ag, and you should be able to track down the local office and agent, most times the Ag agent will know someone, or they may have equipment you can rent and a reasonable fee. Check your local feed stores, even Lowers, Home Depot, Rural King, and Tractor Supply stores. Post an add in the local paper and on the bulletin boards at those stores. I am not trying to "not " get you to buy a plow and disk and planter, just trying to help ease the up front out of pocket pain. And one more thought, if you are dead set on doing it your self, and I commend you if you do, look for a tiller a good 60 inch tiller will be costly, but in the end do more than you need and will make life easyer,, just a thought from the coal country

I spoke to my son in law who's Father has a 4 and 5 foot tiller. Not sure how deep these dig ...Any idea ?

He said I could borrow the 4 footer. His Dad said he didn't think the 5 footer would work without it being cut down. The 4 footer has not been run for a long time. Guess it didn't do real well that's why he bought the 5. It very well may be worth trying and in fact I think that's what I'll do first. I know there is probably a gear box and fittings that need grease. I imagine the blades are all rusty to and will need re sharpened. Might be opening a can of worms but ya never know.

His Father owned a junk yard so I'm not going to hold my breath,. He keeps everything outside.

 

[fried1765]

I don't believe this tractor has the guts to pull a 2 bottom plow

Depending on your soil type I would think that your Kubota 2601 would pull a 2 bottom plow just fine.
I have pulled a Ford 14" 2 bottom just fine with my (23HP?) 1951 Ford 8N

 

[Colb56]

No way a B2601 will run a 60" tiller, especially on sod. Even a 4' tiller it'll be a 'challenge',probably destroy something....
Big question is how long the sod has been 'sod' ? If it used to be 'notilled' you'll have some serious 'hard pan' and THAT will not be nice to try to rototill.BTDT. I used a subsoiler 3-4 times to begin to breakup neighbours 'new garden', then plowed 3-4 time THEN rototilled.

also be sure to put LOTS of compost into the new garden ! every year, lots, more, even more....

It has never been plowed or tilled in the past 38 years. I figured that's why the plow would work better.

 

[Colb56]

Depending on your soil type I would think that your Kubota 2601 would pull a 2 bottom plow just fine.
I have pulled a Ford 14" 2 bottom just fine with my (23HP?) 1951 Ford 8N

Just spoke to a guy who told me he has a Summit 25 HP and it's about the same size as the 2601 and he said with 1 plow his really strained to pull it.

 

[skeets]

Yes a 2601 will run a 60 incher, ya just can't sink it in, slow and easy passes getting deeper with each one, untill it is broken up then you can get to it.
If you can do the 48 inch for a really good price like for free,,,,, go for it!
Just understand the tires are wider than the tiller and you will wind up with some over lapping tire tracks. Also you will need to find the PTO shaft and cut it to fit, if its not sized right,, well it can get very expencive to fix,, and there are guys here that can explain how to size the shaft, and youtube has tons of videos on how to do it. What ever way you go just remember to think it through, then sit back and think it through again, and then go slow untill you get it figured out,,, the main thing is to have fun

 

[Colb56]

Just spoke to a guy who told me he has a Summit 25 HP and it's about the same size as the 2601 and he said with 1 plow his really strained to pull it.

I am going to try a 4 foot tiller that my son in laws father has but going to have to put some work into it first. Hasn't been used in a good while. It's worth a shot until I can locate a plow. Most people I have called said that's a thing of the past. Most guys they said use a tiller. I'm of the mindset that the old wa

Yes a 2601 will run a 60 incher, ya just can't sink it in, slow and easy passes getting deeper with each one, untill it is broken up then you can get to it.
If you can do the 48 inch for a really good price like for free,,,,, go for it!
Just understand the tires are wider than the tiller and you will wind up with some over lapping tire tracks. Also you will need to find the PTO shaft and cut it to fit, if its not sized right,, well it can get very expencive to fix,, and there are guys here that can explain how to size the shaft, and youtube has tons of videos on how to do it. What ever way you go just remember to think it through, then sit back and think it through again, and then go slow untill you get it figured out,,, the main thing is to have fun

I'm hoping the 4 foot one is the right size. I'm also going to see how to measure or how I know what tiller would work on this tractor. Any ideas how I would know what the correct size is ??? I never in my wildest dreams thought this would be so difficult. It wasn't for the older fellows 40 years ago. Heck they plowed back in biblical times.
The plow to me is like a phone that hangs on the wall.
The tiller is the cell phone...lol

 

[skeets]

Old rule of thumb is like 5HP for each foot of tilling equipment and I think our is around 19.5 PTO HP so yeah your good, the 60 I ran on my worked but the ground was only worked a year or 2 before so it wasnt bad. Depending on the size of the tiller blade it should cut between 6 and 8 inches some only 4 inches.
And again it depends on the plow size and how it is set up. My BX pulled a 12inch single bottom with a Colter wheel with out any problems, low range 4wd.
Remember the ground is the determining factor for our little beasts, if the ground has never been tilled or pasture land that has been stomped under by critters, it is going to be a lot harder to till than ground that has been tilled or has a high sand or loam content. And figure in when kind of grass or cover is on it, lots of wire grass, will clog things up pretty quick, tall grass that has been knocked down will give you fits as well. If it is over grown , mow the snot out of it, then do it again, untill all that stuff is ground up.
I know this is a lot to think about, but the first time is always the hardest. Maybe when you get started do a quarter of when you want to do and see how that goes, you can always till more up as you go,, lots of luck to you and,, oh yes picture, we do love our tractor porn

 

[Colb56]

Old rule of thumb is like 5HP for each foot of tilling equipment and I think our is around 19.5 PTO HP so yeah your good, the 60 I ran on my worked but the ground was only worked a year or 2 before so it wasnt bad. Depending on the size of the tiller blade it should cut between 6 and 8 inches some only 4 inches.
And again it depends on the plow size and how it is set up. My BX pulled a 12inch single bottom with a Colter wheel with out any problems, low range 4wd.
Remember the ground is the determining factor for our little beasts, if the ground has never been tilled or pasture land that has been stomped under by critters, it is going to be a lot harder to till than ground that has been tilled or has a high sand or loam content. And figure in when kind of grass or cover is on it, lots of wire grass, will clog things up pretty quick, tall grass that has been knocked down will give you fits as well. If it is over grown , mow the snot out of it, then do it again, untill all that stuff is ground up.
I know this is a lot to think about, but the first time is always the hardest. Maybe when you get started do a quarter of when you want to do and see how that goes, you can always till more up as you go,, lots of luck to you and,, oh yes picture, we do love our tractor porn

Thanks so much for the info. Just got a cup of my favorite hot beverage, threw another log on the fire and was going to sit down and research the tiller thing. You saved me some time. I will run down next week and look at the tiller and see how much work it needs. I am thinking that the grease is the biggest thing along with how the blades look. Never sharpened things like that before so back to see what I can find out. If this works it will buy me much time to locate a used bottom plow. Prices for new stuff is way crazy high.

I did locate a used 2 bottom plow that the guy said had been cut down to make it 1 bottom, said it was in good shape but that is always in the eye of a salesman. Handles all kinds of used farm equipment. The biggest problem with that is I guess the height of where it connects to the 3 point. If it is to high then I won't be able to lift it to get the clearance needed to move with it. It very well may need cut down and re welded which is a expense.

Going o see the height needed/required to be able to use it for the B2601 unless somebody here (hopefully) knows.

Thanks so much for the info. I have learned so much already with this great bunch of guy's. Hard being new to anything and there is certainly a learning curve with this stuff.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Thanks so much for the info. Just got a cup of my favorite hot beverage, threw another log on the fire and was going to sit down and research the tiller thing. You saved me some time. I will run down next week and look at the tiller and see how much work it needs. I am thinking that the grease is the biggest thing along with how the blades look. Never sharpened things like that before so back to see what I can find out. If this works it will buy me much time to locate a used bottom plow. Prices for new stuff is way crazy high.

I did locate a used 2 bottom plow that the guy said had been cut down to make it 1 bottom, said it was in good shape but that is always in the eye of a salesman. Handles all kinds of used farm equipment. The biggest problem with that is I guess the height of where it connects to the 3 point. If it is to high then I won't be able to lift it to get the clearance needed to move with it. It very well may need cut down and re welded which is a expense.

Going o see the height needed/required to be able to use it for the B2601 unless somebody here (hopefully) knows.

Thanks so much for the info. I have learned so much already with this great bunch of guy's. Hard being new to anything and there is certainly a learning curve with this stuff.

Good day.

I hope this does not come across disrespectful in any way…have you checked PTO shaft length / attached PTO shaft on your tractor before for a rear implement ? Read your manuals. If not it’s worth looking into proper shaft length before you attach an attachment to the rear PTO before running. There’s lot of videos online…this is just one. Wrong length of shaft can cause damage. I hope this helps.

 

[old and tired]

As for the tines, they basically self "sharpen", better known as wearing itself down. You don't have to sharpen them and don't worry about the rust - the dirt will take care of both of that. Just make sure there is enough of a blade (photo of them?).

Just make sure there is oil and/or grease where it needs to be.... Do you know the make of the tiller???

 

[GreensvilleJay]

You shouldn't have any issue putting any 3PH plow on a 3PH tractor as far as raising it up. The 'fun' is adjusting it to plow nice. The top link controls the angle of attack into the soil ( how it digs in ) and the right adjustable arm controls the 'left-right' angle( how it flips the sod over). probably a million utube howtos about it... Once you have the plow, post a picture of it !.
hint: take an angle grinder with coarse flap wheel and 'shine up' the point and moldboard of the plow( the parts that contact the soil.You want the point sharp to cleanly slice into the soil and a smoooth moldboard to roll over the sod. when you're done for the season, spraypaint the shiny parts.it prevent nasty rust forming ! Old farmers used grease.

For sure you want(need) to PLOW the field ! A rototiller is designed to 'fluff up' preplowed soil NOT try to dig up 40 years old 'well established' sod.
Plow North-South furrows, wait a day or two, then plow East-West furrows. This will maximize the breakup of the sod into smaller bits. THEN you can the rototiller, again N-S then E-W.
You don't have a zillion HP so you MUST go slow. The tractor, implement and ground will tell you what's 'good for all'.

 

[Colb56]

Good day.

I hope this does not come across disrespectful in any way…have you checked PTO shaft length / attached PTO shaft on your tractor before for a rear implement ? Read your manuals. If not it’s worth looking into proper shaft length before you attach an attachment to the rear PTO before running. There’s lot of videos online…this is just one. Wrong length of shaft can cause damage. I hope this helps.

No Not disrespectful at all but thankful everyone here is so nice. Besides I have thick skin. I haven't had the tractor delivered yet. Expecting it either late next week or the start of the new week. They have to change the seat for me from a BH seat to the one that came on it. Pretty big dealer, they told me up front it would be 2 weeks. They have some 35 units in the shop right not from zero turns, tractors, excavators, lawn tractors, etc A full service Kubota dealer. Only 2 mechanics !!! So I don't have the manual yet. Just trying to get all my ducks in a row so I can hit the ground running so to speak. Here in SW PA the weather has been pretty nice and I want to get the field plow/ tilled up before planting time in early May. My wife's cousin who owns some 250 acres has all his fields plowed up already. I would have gotten him but his tractors are almost the size of my house...lol He has to have someone in front/ behind him when moving from 1 field to another.

 

[SDT]

The only reason is that a guy told me that it would be much easier with a coulter. Being new ti this I don’t know what to believe so that’s why I came here.

It will be, especially in sod.

Manufacturers do not install coulters on plows without a reason.

 

[SDT]

Not sure if this is the place to post this question so mods please advise/move.

I was going to purchase a moldboard single plow from everything attachments and they produced one that had a coulter and wheel which I thought would be perfect and was made for smaller tractors and had been looking at them for over a year thinking I would buy a tractor one day. Well I did buy the tractor but they are no longer in business.

I am looking for advice on what brand and any other thing I may need to know regarding this purchase. I have around 1.5-2 acres that I want to plow and this has not been ever used for such.

I have a B2610 and know there are limitations. I have asked a few guys around here but the answers ranged from a Brinly to other companies and prices north of a grand. None of them seemed to sure so I am hoping y'all have some answers.

Not sure why you want a plow. Few folks plow these days as tillers are much preferred.

If you plow you will also need a disc to finish the soil unless you have a tiller, in which case you do not need a plow.

 

[Colb56]

It will be, especially in sod.

Manufacturers do not install coulters on plows without a reason.

Yup that’s what I figured. All big 5-6 plows around here have counters.

 

[skeets]

opps

 

[old and tired]

This might help you some

... or not....

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Neighbours new garden, just under 2 acres was no-tiller for at least 35 years ,that I know. 'hard pan'.
Dang near shook me off tractor trying to rototill( 5' tiller, 40hp tractor) ! That was in 1st, low range,feathering and still a 'bronco buster' and 2" depth In comparison, wife's veggie patch..2nd gear, hi range...smooth as silk, full depth(10").
I ran 2 1/2' deep subsoiler N-S,E-W several times over a week, THEN plowed N-S,E-W several times, THEN was able to break down the soil. Discs are not needed,BTDT before though..
Now if you have very sandy,light soil you might be able to rototill first pass....but not across the street(which BTW has been some of the best soybean producing soil for 60-70 years.
How you can prep soil depends on the soil.

 

[fried1765]

Thanks so much for the info. Just got a cup of my favorite hot beverage, threw another log on the fire and was going to sit down and research the tiller thing. You saved me some time. I will run down next week and look at the tiller and see how much work it needs. I am thinking that the grease is the biggest thing along with how the blades look. Never sharpened things like that before so back to see what I can find out. If this works it will buy me much time to locate a used bottom plow. Prices for new stuff is way crazy high.

I did locate a used 2 bottom plow that the guy said had been cut down to make it 1 bottom, said it was in good shape but that is always in the eye of a salesman. Handles all kinds of used farm equipment. The biggest problem with that is I guess the height of where it connects to the 3 point. If it is to high then I won't be able to lift it to get the clearance needed to move with it. It very well may need cut down and re welded which is a expense.

Going o see the height needed/required to be able to use it for the B2601 unless somebody here (hopefully) knows.

Thanks so much for the info. I have learned so much already with this great bunch of guy's. Hard being new to anything and there is certainly a learning curve with this stuff.

AGRI-SUPPLY sells the single bottom plow that you are looking for.

Their item #89826, is a single bottom 14" plow (no coulter)
Price $309.99 + shipping
Their phone # is 1-800-345-0169.... no agri supply locations near you.

They have 9 stores.
It would appear that their Virginia store might be the nearest.
They are a very good company!

 

[Foxrunfarms]

A wanted ad on facebook or market place might help.

I never thought much of " lazy ads" but after getting sick of looking every single day and night I posted an ad for a certain tractor I was looking for. I asked for a picture or 2, and breif details. I actually had ppl respond. 1/5 actually followed the requests. Others emailed me, with no pictures, a different model than I wanted, or tripple the price. I thought it was crazy how many people had something they'd be willing to sell but not have it posted. One of those situations of maybe they didn't want to post it, deal with no shows, or it was " if there's interest I'll sell it'. I bought 2 tractors and a chopper this way.