The reason I selected an “M” is not because I needed that much HP or size. It ‘s because they are by definition “utility” tractors… extremely basic, rugged, durable, workhorses. 5K hours is not too many. If cared-for…it has 4-times that much ahead of it before major engine work.
Do your “due diligence” and check it out thoroughly.
BEFORE you go look at it…. Get the OWNERS MANUAL (from online or other source) and READ IT THRU! Then you will know how things are SUPPOSED to work…and you will be smarter about noticing why the low-fuel warning lite is also a battery-charge-warning…and that when you turn ON the key…should illuminate. (If it doesn’t…then ask WHY. Was the bulb burned out..?? or REMOVED to HIDE something…?) (BTDT)
If paint is faded…rubber dried/cracking…. hoses faded grey and fittings corroded…wiring chewed by mice or indicative of multiple amateurish repairs….it was stored outdoors and not cared for.
Check all grease fittings (zerks)… lots of evidence of grease..? Good. Freshly greased…? Seller is putting best foot fwd….so ASK what type of grease and How Often greased.
ASK WHAT TYPE/BRAND of HYDRAULIC fluid is in that tractor. “Traveller” Brand from TSC…? “303” or some other “generic” …?? or Seller doesn’t know…?? Then I’d be VERY cautious about this tractor. Either it has been “cheaped out” in maintenance… or the seller is ignorant/uncaring/deceptive or possibly all three.
Genuine Kubota fluids..?? Great! When was it last changed?
Ask when the engine oil was last changed, and what type has been customary and how often. (100 hrs normal) Do not get into whether mineral or synthetic or which brand is best.… at this time it makes no difference whatsoever… you will do what you wish to do after you own it and you cannot change the past. You just need to know when it should be changed again…and that a proper diesel-rated oil was used in the past.
Take along a volt/ohm meter and check the battery BEFORE start…and again after it’s running. (12.7 beffore and 13+ with alternator on-line.)
Dry Clutch travel .. (3/4” free-play before engaging throw-out bearing is OK. None or excessive ..more than 1”…. could mean a worn clutch. Place it in high-gear with brakes “set” and let the clutch out slowly at 1200 RPM…should “Kill” the engine… if clutch slips… probably splitting the tractor is in the future.
Tire tread depth? More than 50% is preferable…less than that is a $2K job coming up. Sidewall cracking…? Evidence of repair-plugs..?? (bad)
Also ck for liquid-filled tires and find out WHAT are they filled with. (Only Air… Good. Liquid…. chloride means rusted wheel-rims hazard. Beet-juice…is OK …IF you want/need that weight.)
Spray some soapy solution onto schrader-valves and if possible over tires to detect leaks. (Expensive to fix.) Check tire pressures (another good reason to have an Owners Manual) and if the original or approved replacement tire sizes are installed. (Especially important if 4WD that only specified sizes be installed on all 4)
Coolant clean, nice antifreeze solution..? Good. Plain water or dark/brown…bad. Ck for rusty water trails at engine fittings and below water pump….all evidence of poor mx practices unless that pump is newly-replaced and fresh antifreeze and hoses are in place.
Look beneath tractor at spin-on engine and hyd filters… Damaged, dented or collapsed..? Tractor may have been used for a bull-dozer in heavy brush. Filters may be by-passing dirt. Are the filters Kubota, Wix, NAPA, Luberfiner,…?? good… Fram, or cheap unknown brands..? Not a deal-killer…but gives you an idea of level/quality of care. Are the filters dated/hours-noted on them? Good. (any other written mx records or receipts..? Good.)
Check the fuel filter for evidence of water, leaking, or recency of cleaning/change-out.
Check 4WD shaft covers for chafe-thru, bent-up, or rubbing. (Heavy brush abuse.)
Lastly… Do Not Fail To Ask: What is wrong or weak with this tractor that you know of…?
(When you get it home and find things…. you will then know if seller was forthright or not. It will make a difference to you, I promise.)
BTW, if you can get the serial number of the tractor you can call Kubota dealer and find out WHO/WHEN/WHERE it was first sold and if/when it was traded back to a dealer. You might also find out if it has any records of major repair or service-recalls. (Call your sherriff to see if it’s been reported stolen. You will need that tracotr serial number, usually on the frame below the engine and is the one you need to check.
The engine serial will usually be on the block behind/near the injector pump..
Start it up. First, feel the engine and exhaust manifold (hopefully cold and hasn’t been warmed up before you got there). If the temp is above 40F… and it cranks and fires up smoothly without glow-pugs…that’s Very Good. If it’s below 40F…it’s not bad if it needs glow-plug fo r5-10 secs…but when when it starts…either way… a short blast of dark smoke is OK….but in 15 secs or less it should be running with clear exhaust. Any White smoke is not good after it starts.
While it’s running …open the radiator cap and look for bubbles. (blown head gasket)
Check the PTO and 3-point operations. Check 4WD ops. (Easy smooth shift into/out-of..? Grinding noises while slowly rolling and turning…?)..not good.
Check EACH GEAR (fwd and reverse) under load if possible (brakes can be applied for short periods to check brakes) but what you want to know is… does it “pop out” of any gear..? If so…expensive to repair. If not, and not loud whining… Good.
Hopefully this all helps.
Get a Bill of Sale with the Sellers Photo-I.D. attached.
You’ll love a M-Kubota, I promise. (Any chance it has the M1830 Loader?)
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