Logs - How About This?

[Stitchit1]

I'm in the process of pulling big cedar trees out of the woods. I was using the rear blade with a chain wrapped around it & the log. This was working ok, but wasn't the surest way of knowing if have lift on the but end of the log. As if start moving out the log would normally end up dragging at the blade. This would be ok, but, the area I'm in isn't too favorable for the log dragging due to the fact it tears out the frosted part of the trail resulting in huge ruts. The ground is actually made up of crystallized frost, which although does allow me to get to where I need to go, isn't even close to putting up a fuss for the logs.

So, i called my Kubota dealer,.... They sold me a bar to tie in the lift arms with, as well as a hook to fasten to bar. And then a choker chain to go around the log. This sounds great in theory, but gives little to no lift to get the log up.

I understand the importance of being safe and the risk of flipping the tractor. Thus, I lift it only enough to get it off the ground to pull.

Here's what I'm looking at going to -

I don't want to possibly damage the blade, so wrapping the main chain around blade & arm, etc.

As seen here in this picture minus the choker chain-

Next, putting the same size heavier chain attached to each side of the existing chain as shown by the tape measure-

Lastly, installing "Hook" to cross chain as shown-

Then, I'd use the choker chain to fasten to the hook. What do you guys think? Would lap links hold well enough to fasten the cross chain ends as well as the "hook"?

Thank You in advance!

 

[Tomcat]

There's a couple of threads in this forum about log skidding attachments that seem a little less complicated than your setup. Have you tried a search?

 

[Stitchit1]

Yes I have. But it seems my ground is unlike those I've read, as they refer to less of lifting & more skidding.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

While I normally would suggest what you doing is not good, I have to do some of the same with my logs.
It actual works very well for lift and extra safety and stability having the blade instead of just a hook.

Another option is to add a center link option to the bar and get the hook up higher.

Here is what I would do:
If you want to cut down on noise and paint scrapes use a strap but a chain will work.
Tie the chain or strap around the front and drape the end and hook over the back center, use a short chain or loop the strap through the rear center section to keep the chain from walking side to side.
You could even put a piece of hose over the chain where it goes over the back to keep the wear down.
If you can weld, Weld a plate with and eye onto the back of the blades frame, I have a receiver attached to the back of my blade so I can move trailers around when I use the blade for things like snow clearing, also works handy for towing a small log trailer out the loading it and towing it back.
(I know crude drawings)

 

[Stitchit1]

Wolfman, If I went w my idea, what would you use to secure the small chain (tape measure), to the larger chain? Lap links?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yep lap links will work or even quick links, with the quick links you'll be able to get it back apart easier when your done.

 

[Stitchit1]

Great point! Thanks Wolfman!!

 

[ShaunRH]

The item you seem to be looking for is called a Log Arch. It's a dolly just for logs, hooks up and tows easily or can be hand handled.

http://www.logrite.com/store/Item/Junior-Log-Arch

There are many variants of the type, that's just an example. They don't hurt the ground and they don't really let the log drag much.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

No, no, no, no, no... Don't do that! It magnifies the weight of the log many times over and the effective pulling point becomes something just above the top link attachment on the tractor. It is a guaranteed way to have the front end of the tractor in the air which on uneven terrain (normal in a wooded area) will result in severe instability.
Draft inducing implements or loads must never be hitched above the level of the drawbar or the level of the mounting pins for the lower three point links (which are usually at about the same level +/- a couple inches). Nothing good comes of that arrangement!
I'm not a safety freak, but I've had the front of a tractor off the ground enough times to know it should be avoided unless of course you're hitched to the front of a sled on a level pulling track.

 

[bcp]

I hang my tongs from the top of the rear blade frame, about like Wolfman's 2nd photo. The blade is turned backwards. I can adjust height, if needed, by using the top link.

Bruce

 

[Stitchit1]

Ahhhh, I think I've finally got it! It works like a charm. However Wolfman, as you said it does seem to scratch & ding a bit more than I originally thought it would. I'm going to look into a tire or something of that sort to keep it protected. All in all, at least making progress. Thanks guys!

 

[MagKarl]

I find it ironic that you voice your concern over flipping the tractor and you have posted pics showing your tractor at work with the ROPS folded down.

 

[Stitchit1]

Mag, yes, you are confused. Lol. I wasn't voicing concern over flipping the tractor,..... I was simply stating I understand what was said in other threads of concerns one needs to be aware of that the tractor has potential to flip. Thus, I didn't want the thread to go in that direction & wanted to stick to the actual topic of my actual reason for posting the thread.

I understand never say never,.... But, the trail is an ice rink. If the log were to try to stop the tractor by snagging up on something, the tires would brake free and spin.

 

[MagKarl]

No sweat, I'm the furthest thing from a safety Nazi. Just thought it was funny.

 

[coachgeo]

Might be an OK solution temporary. Just plan on getting a log arch or something else designed properly for the task.

For temporary setups like this fellows; Am I not mistaken that on a 3 point with implement; if you were to say start to flip backward would the implement behind you, if it was low enough, act like a Drag Race car's Wheelie bar and slow the flip? Such as his back blade in this case if it was lower. Didn't say stop flip cause assume the 3 point would at some point bend like a pretzel .

 

[AZ.]

Nice big rope with a half hitch?....Whats with the chain?.... A good strap will help you more and have better feel for your towing/dragging...MHO

 

[Milo Holroyd]

Here's how I do it. (providing the pics work)

 

[Tooljunkie]

I used a yamaha 400 with a 10 foot strap. One end tied to the rear rack and a slip type hook that latched closed. Pulled 30 cords over 4 winters. Mind you the logs were 10" at the butt being the largest. Worked very well.only issues was the stumps that would emerge from the trail. Quick trim and problem gone. We adapted this method at work, dragged 300 cords one winter with three atv's. Green pine and poplar. I really want to try the lil bota for pulling wood, but it gets delivered now. So all i get to do is fork wood to the saw bench.

Would jump on the chance to build a skidding attatchment for it.

 

[ShaunBlake]

Would jump on the chance to build a skidding attatchment for it.

If you built one, would you put a sled under the leading end? If so, how would you get a curl in the sled (assuming a piece of plate)?

 

[Lil Foot]

Milo Holroyd- That little trailer is slick!