Great thank you that looks like a great idea. The days where I can carry the bins of firewood into the house are numbered. the pallet idea looks great. I have to cut as close to 16" as possible without going over so having a rack makes good sense. nice looking place.
Log skidding methods?
- Thread starter top gnome
- Start date
thank you for the information
I used a Jeep pickup for clearing land and firewood when I first started and an old international scout 4 cyl after that. they outweigh a B and can do a lot of work. even pulled trees down with it. But once I got my first john deere B 2 lunger the international just pulled the trailer.
Not sure about the log arch I realize you can skid a tree out with it and that is useful but I dont mind cutting 8 or 12 ft lengths and then the grapple is king.
bbxlr8
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 w/R14s, LA525, BH77, SGC0660, CL 5' BB, CL PHD, WG24 + Ford 1210 60" mmm,
Agreed - tractor & grapple are my go-to's now ...my brother had the scoutthank you for the information
I used a Jeep pickup for clearing land and firewood when I first started and an old international scout 4 cyl after that. they outweigh a B and can do a lot of work. even pulled trees down with it. But once I got my first john deere B 2 lunger the international just pulled the trailer.
Not sure about the log arch I realize you can skid a tree out with it and that is useful but I dont mind cutting 8 or 12 ft lengths and then the grapple is king.
It’s just a barn…under the roofline now is dry place for implements…barn with future residence and infrastructure in mind. We pay as we go. We are currently trying to develop the forest (state forestry program) and trying to set up hobby farm infrastructure for retirement (or world goes to hell…whichever comes first). Eventually, should we retire there, we will build a house and the barn there will become a small workshop / farm utility building.
Very nice building. My wife wants a "she Shed " i cant let her see that picture.
The longer it’s been in place the more square footage I lose…good luck. I can’t complain…we’ll I shouldn’t complain…I can hunt all I want, have a barn two tractors and we go Fourwheeling together. I want the sympathy but I am pretty lucky.
jyoutz
Well-known member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Before feller bunchers and other mechanical harvesters became in general use, loggers would skid logs with cable chokers, not chains. The chokers grip the log better and slide over things better than chains.
www.baileysonline.com
WoodlandPRO FSE Cat Logging Choker (3/8
Wire rope logging chokers from WoodlandPRO. FSE logging chokers are commonly called cat chokers, because they are often used in the logging industry with a
For racking firewood, I'm using the IBC totes. I remove the plastic tank and modify the front of the tote so I can reach the floor easily. Lift it to good operating height and stack the firewood in it. I can then move the tote where ever we need the firewood. I bought eight of these from a local ag supplier for $20 each.
Our ten acre of forest are quite dense and even with our tiny B5100, it can be difficult to get the logs out. I found the most time efficient means of handling trees was to cut them in 12'-20' lengths and drag the logs clear of the trees in low gear with a chain attached to a 10K ring bolted to the frame from the front, or onto the 3 point hitch adapter in the rear. If I set up the chain as a choker, I don't have any problems with it coming loose. Occasionally the end hits a rock or stump and I use a peavey to roll the log out of the way of the obstruction.
Once clear of the woods and safe from sudden stops, I can drag the logs in higher gears - 3-4 mph or so, so it doesn't take long. When I get the logs to the log pile, I mark them off in 4' lengths with the chain saw, and then lift them from one end using log tongs clipped to the chain so I can cut them from underneath, obviously starting at the end furthest from the tractor.
The only problem with this I need to sharpen the saw chain frequently as there's dirt and bits of rock in the bark. I also need to fell them in the right direction; this is harder with windfall.
If I'm planning to mill the logs, I'll use the log arch I built to keep the logs clear of debris as much as possible. Usually this is cedar and quite soft, so treating the logs gently is important.
Logging is hard work, even w/ the tractor & chainsaw. I can manage about 2-3 80' trees a day w/o too much pain this way, depending on how tight the conditions are and thus how short I need to cut the logs.
Once clear of the woods and safe from sudden stops, I can drag the logs in higher gears - 3-4 mph or so, so it doesn't take long. When I get the logs to the log pile, I mark them off in 4' lengths with the chain saw, and then lift them from one end using log tongs clipped to the chain so I can cut them from underneath, obviously starting at the end furthest from the tractor.
The only problem with this I need to sharpen the saw chain frequently as there's dirt and bits of rock in the bark. I also need to fell them in the right direction; this is harder with windfall
.If I'm planning to mill the logs, I'll use the log arch I built to keep the logs clear of debris as much as possible. Usually this is cedar and quite soft, so treating the logs gently is important.
Logging is hard work, even w/ the tractor & chainsaw. I can manage about 2-3 80' trees a day w/o too much pain this way, depending on how tight the conditions are and thus how short I need to cut the logs.
Logging is hard work, even w/ the tractor & chainsaw. I can manage about 2-3 80' trees a day w/o too much pain this way, depending on how tight the conditions are and thus how short I need to cut the logs.Our ten acre of forest are quite dense and even with our tiny B5100, it can be difficult to get the logs out. I found the most time efficient means of handling trees was to cut them in 12'-20' lengths and drag the logs clear of the trees in low gear with a chain attached to a 10K ring bolted to the frame from the front, or onto the 3 point hitch adapter in the rear. If I set up the chain as a choker, I don't have any problems with it coming loose. Occasionally the end hits a rock or stump and I use a peavey to roll the log out of the way of the obstruction.
Once clear of the woods and safe from sudden stops, I can drag the logs in higher gears - 3-4 mph or so, so it doesn't take long. When I get the logs to the log pile, I mark them off in 4' lengths with the chain saw, and then lift them from one end using log tongs clipped to the chain so I can cut them from underneath, obviously starting at the end furthest from the tractor.
The only problem with this I need to sharpen the saw chain frequently as there's dirt and bits of rock in the bark. I also need to fell them in the right direction; this is harder with windfall
If I'm planning to mill the logs, I'll use the log arch I built to keep the logs clear of debris as much as possible. Usually this is cedar and quite soft, so treating the logs gently is important.
Logging is hard work, even w/ the tractor & chainsaw. I can manage about 2-3 80' trees a day w/o too much pain this way, depending on how tight the conditions are and thus how short I need to cut the logs. View attachment 78552
View attachment 78554
Wow....Much respect to you. A lot of work for you and that little tractor !!
Thats just may be Paradise on earth....Beautiful all around !!!! My trees seem like Sticks now.Our ten acre of forest are quite dense and even with our tiny B5100, it can be difficult to get the logs out. I found the most time efficient means of handling trees was to cut them in 12'-20' lengths and drag the logs clear of the trees in low gear with a chain attached to a 10K ring bolted to the frame from the front, or onto the 3 point hitch adapter in the rear. If I set up the chain as a choker, I don't have any problems with it coming loose. Occasionally the end hits a rock or stump and I use a peavey to roll the log out of the way of the obstruction.
Once clear of the woods and safe from sudden stops, I can drag the logs in higher gears - 3-4 mph or so, so it doesn't take long. When I get the logs to the log pile, I mark them off in 4' lengths with the chain saw, and then lift them from one end using log tongs clipped to the chain so I can cut them from underneath, obviously starting at the end furthest from the tractor.
The only problem with this I need to sharpen the saw chain frequently as there's dirt and bits of rock in the bark. I also need to fell them in the right direction; this is harder with windfall
If I'm planning to mill the logs, I'll use the log arch I built to keep the logs clear of debris as much as possible. Usually this is cedar and quite soft, so treating the logs gently is important.
Logging is hard work, even w/ the tractor & chainsaw. I can manage about 2-3 80' trees a day w/o too much pain this way, depending on how tight the conditions are and thus how short I need to cut the logs. View attachment 78552
View attachment 78554
bbxlr8
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 w/R14s, LA525, BH77, SGC0660, CL 5' BB, CL PHD, WG24 + Ford 1210 60" mmm,
View attachment 78554
Thanks for posting Barts. Nice job on the log arch! One of the best home-built ones that I have seen.
Any chance of a better closer pic?
Thanks for posting Barts. Nice job on the log arch! One of the best home-built ones that I have seen.
Any chance of a better closer pic?
I made a Capstan winch setup designed after a commercial product. Works on the rear hydraulics. Easy to hook up on logs. I pull logs from 200 ft or much more using high strand multi strand rope. I pull around corners and right angles using pulleys. It can really reach out because you use rope instead of a predetermined amount of steel cable on a spool. Also handling rope is way easier than steel cable
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Got a lot of help from a fella named Chris Morse here on the math and type of hydraulic motor ide need, and the plumbing. Once I winch the log to the back of the tractor I chain them and lift the one end and off I go. I pull them up hills, thru swamp and lots of places I can't go with my tractor. And at really long distance.
awesome thank you. My neighbour uses a hydraulic winch off of a lobster boat on his 19 hp Bolens tractor and logged off 100 acres with it.
beautiful land and trees great arch and setup. thank you for sharing the pictures you are doing that with a 12 hp tractor wowOur ten acre of forest are quite dense and even with our tiny B5100, it can be difficult to get the logs out. I found the most time efficient means of handling trees was to cut them in 12'-20' lengths and drag the logs clear of the trees in low gear with a chain attached to a 10K ring bolted to the frame from the front, or onto the 3 point hitch adapter in the rear. If I set up the chain as a choker, I don't have any problems with it coming loose. Occasionally the end hits a rock or stump and I use a peavey to roll the log out of the way of the obstruction.
Once clear of the woods and safe from sudden stops, I can drag the logs in higher gears - 3-4 mph or so, so it doesn't take long. When I get the logs to the log pile, I mark them off in 4' lengths with the chain saw, and then lift them from one end using log tongs clipped to the chain so I can cut them from underneath, obviously starting at the end furthest from the tractor.
The only problem with this I need to sharpen the saw chain frequently as there's dirt and bits of rock in the bark. I also need to fell them in the right direction; this is harder with windfall
If I'm planning to mill the logs, I'll use the log arch I built to keep the logs clear of debris as much as possible. Usually this is cedar and quite soft, so treating the logs gently is important.
Logging is hard work, even w/ the tractor & chainsaw. I can manage about 2-3 80' trees a day w/o too much pain this way, depending on how tight the conditions are and thus how short I need to cut the logs. View attachment 78552
View attachment 78554