Loader valve float

[dlsmith]

I recently purchased a BX2230, and one of the first things I noticed was the bucket valve will not go into the float position. Talked to a local Kubota dealer and everyone there said it has to have a float position, all of them do. I even had a friend that has an identical tractor look at it, and he was puzzled because it wouldn't go into float when you pushed forward on the lever.
So, today I pulled the pins on the loader and tipped the pillar forward out of the way, disconnected the hoses and took the cover off the hydraulic valve. The covers on the lower ends of the valve spools are hex shaped and about 3' long. Of course the inside one that I need to remove is blocked by the outside one for the bucket control. A 1 1/4" wrench just fit it and both came off without any problem. Looking down into the cover with a light, the problem is obvious, it's totally rusted up. I got the snap ring out of the end, and was able to get the plug out, but everything inside is rusted beyond salvage.
I ordered a kit to repair it from Messick's, part number YW232-91102, called a float detent kit, so that should get it back to working like it should.

Why on earth wouldn't they put some grease in the cap when it's assembled? This can't be a problem on only my tractor.

You can bet you behind it will be well greased when it goes back together.

Anyone else had this problem?

 

[Creature Meadow]

To answer your question no I have not and use the float feature often while leveling my drive at the top of my hill. My tractor has always been stored under a shelter and rarely is left outside over night and not when it is going to rain.

How old is your tractor, is it stored under a shelter, does it get rained on?

If the above is the case that may contribute to the problem you are having.

Far as grease have never had mine apart so no idea if grease is applied to the valve or not.

Sure the experts here I'm for sure not one will be along soon to offer advice and guidance.

Good luck with the rebuild.

Jay

 

[dlsmith]

My BX is a 2005 model, and I don't know if it was stored outside, but by the generally good condition of the paint and lack of any rust, I would say not.

It's a little puzzling as to how water would get into that area, as it screws into the valve body tightly and the end of the cover has a plug that is sealed with an o-ring.

Regardless, once I get the new parts, it will well lubricated and should last a long time.

 

[D2Cat]

On the cover over the spring for the detent.... you can drill a small hole in the bottom to allow any moisture to get out. Use something Fluid Film to protect it from rust again.

 

[dlsmith]

Thanks, I thought about doing that.
Don't know how any moisture can get in there, but I'll at least give it a way to get out.

 

[dlsmith]

Well, I got the detent repair kit form Messick's this week, and I got it installed this afternoon. Was pretty easy to change, but you have to take the cover off the bucket curl spool to be able to get a wrench on the loader spool cover. I don't think I would have needed to, but I also changed the extension that screws into the bottom of the valve spool that has the centering spring on it. It's Loctited, so it took quite a bit of torque to break it loose. I put a little blue Loctite on the new one when I reassembled it, It only took about 45 minutes to replace, and now I have a float position on the loader.

I also replaced the safety switch for the PTO lever, the one on the machine was broken. When I pulled the LR tire off I discovered it was filled with liquid, and even though it's not that big of a tire, it's really heavy.
Of course in the process of removing the mounting bracket I dropped the bolt that holds it to another bracket. As tight as everything is in that area, I figured it would be a real pain to find it, but just a few seconds with a magnet and I fished it out. Got the new switch on, adjusted and decided to roll the tire up on one of the little dollies for moving cars around, and it made it really easy to get it lined up and all the lug bolts in.

I was surprised to find that the lug bolts a 1/2" NF, not metric. Must be about the only fasteners on the machine that a SAE fasteners.

 

[NoJacketRequired]

On the cover over the spring for the detent.... you can drill a small hole in the bottom to allow any moisture to get out. Use something Fluid Film to protect it from rust again.

D2 - would you happen to have a picture of where that drain hole should be drilled? I've been having intermittent issues with the float position on my B7510 with the LA302 loader. Seems this summer things got dry enough that it's working again, kind of (won't stay in detent). Last winter I had to warm the valve before the ice in the detent would melt enough to allow movement of the valve in the "implement down" direction.

I'd really like to poke a hole in the cover of the detent housing, just want to ensure I don't mess it up while doing so!

 

[RCW]

D2 - would you happen to have a picture of where that drain hole should be drilled?

I remember seeing a couple photos here. Seems they were drilled in a spot to ensure water ran out...i.e., lower/lowest part of the cover, given it's orientation..

 

[dlsmith]

D2 - would you happen to have a picture of where that drain hole should be drilled?

Not D2, but it should have a hole in the plug in the cap in the end of the detent cover. The old one did, but it was plugged with rust. The new one I put on has a small hole, probably 1/32" in the cap in the end of the cover. I lubed the spring assembly on the end of the spool very liberally with CorrosionX, so hopefully that will keep it from rusting up again.

 

[NoJacketRequired]

I remember seeing a couple photos here. Seems they were drilled in a spot to ensure water ran out...i.e., lower/lowest part of the cover, given it's orientation..

My main concern is that I drill the hole close enough to the end that it's effective as a drain, but I don't want to risk hitting anything of value inside!